UPPER EGYPT
This region traces the Nile River south of the Delta, serving as the heartland of Ancient Egypt’s glorious kingdoms. It is an unparalleled land of colossal temples, majestic tombs, and the enduring culture of the Sa’idi people.
This guide will help you navigate this treasure trove of history, from Luxor to Abu Simbel.
Why Visit Upper Egypt?
World’s Greatest Open-Air Museum: Discover the monumental temples of Karnak and Luxor and the royal tombs in the Valley of the Kings.
The Eternal Nile: Experience the lifeblood of Egypt on a traditional felucca or a multi-day Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan.
Unique Nubian Culture: Explore the distinct language, colorful architecture, and traditions of the Nubian people in the region around Aswan.
Smart Travel
Peak Season (November–March): This is the ideal time to visit. The weather is pleasantly warm during the day (around 20ºC / 68ºF), making sightseeing comfortable, especially at sprawling outdoor sites. Be prepared for crowds and higher prices.
Shoulder Season (April, October): Temperatures begin to rise but are manageable. This season offers a balance of good weather and fewer crowds. April can see the occasional hot Khamsin wind.
Deep Off-Season (May–September): Characterized by extreme, intense heat (often exceeding 40ºC / 104ºF). You’ll find the lowest prices and no crowds, but it is physically challenging to sightsee.
Main Areas & Places to Explore
Luxor (Ancient Thebes)
Luxor is often called the world’s greatest open-air museum. The East Bank is home to the stunning Karnak Temple Complex and Luxor Temple. The West Bank holds the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut.
Your Smart Tip: To beat the heat and crowds on the West Bank, hire a taxi or driver and start your day as early as possible—ideally arriving at the first site just as it opens.
Aswan & Lake Nasser
Aswan is a relaxed city near the first cataract of the Nile, known for its beautiful river views, the High Dam, and the relocated Philae Temple on Agilkia Island. It is the gateway to Nubia and the monumental temples of Abu Simbel on Lake Nasser.
Your Smart Tip: Spend a peaceful afternoon sailing the Nile on a traditional felucca sailboat, especially around Elephantine Island, to appreciate the tranquil landscape away from the city bustle.
Nile Cruise Stops (Edfu & Kom Ombo)
The cruise route between Luxor and Aswan stops at two magnificently preserved Ptolemaic temples. The Temple of Horus at Edfu is one of Egypt’s best-preserved cult temples, and the Temple of Kom Ombo is a unique “double temple” dedicated to two gods: Sobek the crocodile god and Haroeris (Horus the Elder).
Your Smart Tip: Many tour groups arrive at Edfu via horse-drawn carriage. To avoid the hassle and enjoy a more direct route, arrange for a private taxi to meet your boat.
Handy Tips
Weather & Climate
The climate is extremely arid (hot desert). Rainfall is virtually non-existent. Summers are scorching hot, with daytime highs in Luxor and Aswan often over 40ºC (104ºF). Winters are mild and sunny, with daytime highs around 25ºC (77ºF) but with cold desert nights dropping to 10ºC (50ºF) or lower.
Local Customs And Etiquette
Dress Code: Dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites. Shoulders and knees should be covered. Lightweight, breathable linen or cotton clothing is recommended for the heat.
Tipping (Baksheesh): Tipping is a way of life in Egypt and is expected for many services. Keep small bills ($1, $5, or local currency equivalent) ready for porters, drivers, and guides.
Photography: Always ask permission before taking a picture of a local person. Photography is often restricted or requires a separate ticket inside many tombs and temples.
Budgeting For Your Trip
Accommodation: Hostels ($10–$25), mid-range hotels ($40–$70), luxury ($100+). Nile cruises often cost between $150 and $300 per person per night for a mid-range cabin.
Food: Street food/local eateries ($2–$5), fixed-price lunch menu ($8–$15), dinner at a mid-range restaurant ($15–$30 per person).
Transport: Intercity train (regional), local taxi/Uber (cheap), Nile Cruise (major expense, see accommodation).
Activities: Temple entry fees ($6–$20 per site), hot air balloon ride in Luxor ($80–$150).
Daily Budget:
- Budget: $40–$70 (hostels, local food, public transport).
- Mid-range: $90–$150 (hotels, restaurants, attractions).
- Luxury: $250+ (Nile cruise, boutique hotels, private tours).
Getting Around
By River: The most popular and scenic way to travel between Luxor and Aswan is via a Nile Cruise or a traditional Dahabiya (a smaller, luxury sailboat).
By Train: The comfortable overnight and daytime express trains connect Luxor, Esna, Edfu, Kom Ombo, and Aswan. This is an efficient way to travel long distances.
Locally: In cities like Luxor and Aswan, you can use local taxis, ride-sharing apps (where available), or horse-drawn carriages (bargain the price beforehand).
Must-Try Food
Kushari (Koo-shari): A mix of rice, macaroni, and lentils, topped with a spicy tomato sauce, chickpeas, and fried onions.
Ta’ameya (Tah-ah-mee-ya): Egyptian falafel, made with fava beans instead of chickpeas.
Foul Medames (Fool Meh-da-mes): Slow-cooked fava beans, served with oil, cumin, and lemon, a popular breakfast staple.
Molokhiya (Moh-loh-khee-ya): A thick, green soup made from jute leaves, often served with chicken or rabbit and rice.
Hamam Mahshi (Ha-mam Mah-shee): Whole roasted pigeon stuffed with freek (cracked wheat) or seasoned rice.
Sayadeya (Sah-yah-dee-ya): A fish and rice dish, where the rice is cooked with fish stock and spices until it turns brown.
Aish Baladi (A-eesh Bah-lah-dee): Traditional Egyptian whole wheat flatbread, baked in a hot oven.
Mahshi (Mah-shee): Vegetables (zucchini, bell peppers, tomatoes) stuffed with a mix of rice, herbs, and spices.
Umm Ali (Oom Ah-lee): A creamy bread pudding soaked in milk, nuts, and coconut, served warm.
Basbousa (Bas-boo-sah): A sweet cake made from semolina soaked in simple syrup and often topped with almonds.
Must-Try Drinks
Karkade (Kar-kah-day): Hibiscus tea, served hot in winter or refreshingly cold in summer.
Assir Qassab (Ah-seer Kah-sahb): Freshly pressed sugarcane juice, sweet and energizing.
Sahlab (Sahl-ahb): A thick, creamy, warm winter drink made from milk, sugar, and an orchid root starch (or cornstarch), often topped with cinnamon and nuts.
Shay Bil Na’na (Shay Bil Nah-nah): Black tea with fresh mint leaves, the common drink.
Yansoon (Yahn-soon): Anise tea, often consumed for its soothing properties.
Zobib (Zoh-beeb): Cold raisin juice.
Beer: Local Egyptian beers like Stella and Sakara are widely available in tourist areas.
Wine: Local Egyptian wines are produced, though they are less common than beer in most local establishments.
Juices: Fresh fruit juices, particularly mango, orange, and guava.
Turkish/Egyptian Coffee (Ahwa): Thick, strong coffee, often served with cardamom and sugar.