TUSCIA
Tuscia, the ancient heartland of the Etruscans, is a mystical region where time seems to stand still. It is a world of dramatic hilltop villages, Papal history, and enchanting Renaissance gardens, all set amidst lush volcanic landscapes.
This northern corner of Lazio, centered on Viterbo, is a treasure trove of art, nature, and thermal springs. It offers a unique blend of millennia-old history and natural beauty, far from the crowds of Italy’s more famous destinations.
Most Popular Attractions
Viterbo City Core & Historic Sites:
Palazzo dei Papi (Papal Palace): The former 13th-century Papal residence, famous for hosting the first and longest Papal conclave.
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Viterbo Cathedral): A Romanesque church dominating the Piazza San Lorenzo, with a beautiful Renaissance façade and bell tower.
Quartiere San Pellegrino: One of the best-preserved medieval quarters in Italy, characterized by profferli (external staircases) and stone architecture.
Piazza del Plebiscito: Viterbo’s main civic square, surrounded by the Palazzo dei Priori, Palazzo del Podestà, and the Governor’s Palace.
Viterbo Underground: A network of ancient tunnels and caves running beneath the historic center.
Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Viterbo: Housed in the Rocca Albornoz, showcasing Etruscan finds from the region.
Macchina di Santa Rosa Museum: Dedicated to the colossal, illuminated tower carried in procession every September 3rd.
Chiesa del Gesù: A small but historically significant church where an event from Dante Alighieri’s Inferno took place.
Fontana Grande: One of Viterbo’s most elaborate medieval fountains, located outside the main gates.
Porta Romana: A major historic gate in Viterbo’s well-preserved medieval walls.
Villas & Surreal Gardens:
Villa Lante (Bagnaia): A masterpiece of Italian Renaissance landscaping, renowned for its water features, fountains, and geometric gardens.
Parco dei Mostri (Sacro Bosco di Bomarzo): A whimsical and surreal 16th-century garden filled with grotesque, mythological stone sculptures (Monsters).
Palazzo Farnese (Caprarola): A massive pentagonal Renaissance villa with spectacular frescoes and magnificent spiral staircases.
Castello Ruspoli (Vignanello): A well-preserved castle known for its stunning 16th-century Italian-style boxwood gardens.
Hill Towns & Etruscan Legacy:
Civita di Bagnoregio: The dramatic “Dying City,” a tiny, isolated hilltop village accessible only via a long pedestrian bridge.
Tarquinia: Home to the UNESCO World Heritage Etruscan Necropolis, featuring painted tombs, and a rich National Archaeological Museum.
Tuscania: A medieval walled town with two magnificent Romanesque churches, the Basilica di San Pietro and Santa Maria Maggiore, outside its walls.
Sutri: Famous for its Etruscan necropolis carved into the tufa rock and a Roman amphitheater also carved from the stone.
Vulci Archaeological Park: Site of a once-powerful Etruscan city, featuring ruins, a medieval castle, and a museum.
Nepi: A historic town known for its impressive Farnese castle and aqueduct.
Natural Wonders & Relaxation:
Terme dei Papi (Thermal Baths): A famous thermal spa complex drawing on Viterbo’s ancient hot springs, known for their curative properties.
Lago di Bolsena (Lake Bolsena): Europe’s largest volcanic lake, offering beaches, charming lakeside towns, and the historic fortress of Bolsena town.
Lago di Vico (Lake Vico): A smaller, serene volcanic lake surrounded by the Riserva Naturale Regionale Lago di Vico, perfect for nature walks.
Bosco del Sasseto (Sasseto Woods): A mystical, centuries-old woodland near Torre Alfina, featuring ancient oaks and rock formations.
Activities & Experiences
Explore the “Dying Town” of Civita di Bagnoregio: Walk across the long footbridge to this iconic, dramatic hilltop village, famed for its isolation and breathtaking views.
Wander the Monster Park (Parco dei Mostri) in Bomarzo: Discover the bizarre, colossal, and grotesque Renaissance-era sculptures hidden within this enigmatic garden.
Relax and Bathe at a Thermal Spa: Visit the Terme dei Papi for a full spa treatment or experience the free, public sulfur springs like the Piscine Carletti or Buldicame.
Discover the Etruscan Necropolises: Explore the UNESCO World Heritage sites of the ancient Necropolis of Tarquinia and Cerveteri, famed for their painted tombs and unique architecture.
Take a Boat Trip on Lake Bolsena: Rent a boat or take a ferry to explore the islands of Bisentina and Martana on the largest volcanic lake in Europe, with its clear waters and charming lakeside towns.
Hike to a Hidden Waterfall in the Cimini Mountains: Trek through the dense woods of the Monti Cimini to find serene spots and discover the stunning natural waterfall, the Cascata di Fosso Castello.
Experience a Renaissance Palace and Gardens: Tour the magnificent Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola, a pentagonal masterpiece with stunning frescoes and an elaborate giardino all’italiana.
Go Wine Tasting at a Local Vineyard: Tuscia is known for its excellent white wines, particularly the Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone. Visit a local cantina for a tasting.
Learn to Make Traditional Pasta: Take a cooking class in Viterbo to learn how to prepare local Lazio specialties like fieno di canepina (a very fine egg pasta) or authentic carbonara.
Explore the Medieval Quarter of Viterbo: Get lost in the San Pellegrino Quarter, a perfectly preserved medieval section of the city, with its characteristic proffered (external staircases) and stone buildings.
Visit a Castle on a Lake: Drive to the picturesque town of Isola Farnese and visit the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi, a stunning lakeside fortress on Lake Bracciano.
Local Tips & Transport
Car is Essential: Tuscia is best explored by rental car. The key attractions—Etruscan sites, hill towns, and natural areas like Lake Bolsena and Bomarzo—are spread out, and public transport (buses) can be infrequent and time-consuming for a tourist itinerary.
Regional Train: The FL3/Rome-Viterbo line of the regional railway is the best way to get to Viterbo from Rome. It’s affordable and runs regularly, stopping at various towns like Bracciano and Capranica.
Local Buses: COTRAL is the regional bus company. Buses connect the main towns, but schedules can be limited, especially on weekends and holidays. They are useful for getting from Viterbo to places like Marta or Montefiascone on Lake Bolsena.
Parking: In the historic centers (centri storici), parking is limited. Look for designated blue lines (paid parking, usually a machine for tickets) or park outside the walls. White lines are for residents only.
Embrace La Dolce Vita (The Slow Pace): Tuscia is a relaxed region. Dining is a lengthy affair, and the concept of riposo (rest/siesta) is still honored, especially in smaller towns, with many small shops closing from 1:00 PM to 4:00 PM.
Thermal Springs Etiquette: The natural, free springs are a truly local experience. They can be rougher than a paid spa. Bring your own towel, wear appropriate footwear, and be mindful of your belongings.
The Power of the Etruscans: This region is the heartland of the ancient Etruscan civilization. To truly appreciate the area, visit a local museum (like the National Museum of Tarquinia) before visiting the necropolises to understand the artifacts you are seeing.
Viterbo’s “Macchina di Santa Rosa”: If you are visiting in early September, try to see this incredible, unique festival. On the night of September 3rd, a colossal, illuminated tower (The Macchina), which weighs over five tons, is carried through the dark, medieval streets of Viterbo by over a hundred men.
Hidden Gems:
Palazzo dei Papi (Viterbo): While you’ll see the main square, take the time to visit the Loggia of the Popes in this palace. It was the site of the first and longest-ever Papal Conclave.
Bagnoregio’s Belvedere: Instead of just going to Civita, find the viewing point (Belvedere) in the modern town of Bagnoregio for the most famous, panoramic view of the “Dying Town.”
Parco Marturanum (Barbarano Romano): A lesser-known but equally fascinating park for walking through canyons and discovering ancient Etruscan tombs carved into the rock face.
Orvieto Underground: Technically just over the border in Umbria but easily accessible from Tuscia, this is a remarkable network of man-made caves, tunnels, and quarries under the city.
Language: While English is spoken in major hotels and large restaurants, outside of Viterbo, it’s less common. Locals will deeply appreciate even a few basic Italian phrases.
Top Restaurants
Trattoria Porta Romana [$20-$35] – An institution in Viterbo, offering traditional local cuisine with lavish, home-made portions, a verbally suggested menu, and a classic, 1950s Roman trattoria atmosphere.
Osteria del Vecchio Orologio [$25-$40] – Located in Viterbo’s old town, this restaurant highlights the gastronomic specialties of the Tuscia Viterbese area, including lake fish (smoked whitefish panzanella) and local meats.
Tre Re [$20-$35] – A typical, historic restaurant next to Piazza delle Erbe in Viterbo, offering typical cuisine and abundant dishes in an intimate setting.
La Pergoletta [$25-$40] – A solid, family-run establishment in the San Martino al Cimino area (near Viterbo), known for its straightforward local cuisine, especially mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts, and homemade pasta.
Trattoria del Cimino [$25-$45] – Located in an elegant, historic palace in Caprarola, this family-run spot (since 1895) is famed for its traditional Lazio cuisine, including pici all’Amatriciana.
Osteria Trattoria Da Alfreda [$20-$35] – A charming osteria in Tuscania serving authentic Roman and Laziale food, such as gnocchi al sugo, often with the option to dine al fresco.
Il Calice e la Stella [$25-$40] – A Slow Food-awarded restaurant in Canepina, committed to enhancing the local food and wine of the Cimini Mountains and Tuscia, with a focus on local products and Slow Food Presidia.
Ristorante Tramontana [$20-$35] – Located in Allumiere, this is a fifth-generation family-run restaurant serving down-home Italian country meals, ranging from fettuccine to grilled local meats.
Locanda Del Tartufiere [$30-$50] – A must-visit spot in Canino for truffle lovers, specializing in primi (pasta), secondi (main courses), and even desserts featuring local truffles.
Il Monastero [$15-$25] – A rustic eatery in Viterbo located within a charming cloister, popular for its enormous, traditional, thin-crust pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven, and an Etruscan influence in the local dishes.
La Sfera d’Oro [$20-$35] – A 70-year-old, third-generation family restaurant in Sutri, featuring traditional dishes in a setting with scattered antiques and a historic feel.
L’Archetto [$15-$30] – Located under an arch in a fantastic medieval scene in Viterbo, this spot offers a simple and traditional menu, perfect for a casual, historic meal.
Ristorante Il Labirinto [$20-$35] – A popular spot in Viterbo with beautiful outdoor seating in a square, known for its hearty, generous pizzas and an extensive list of local wines.
Rottezzia Osteria Birreria [$20-$35] – A lively osteria in Soriano nel Cimino offering a unique dining experience in a cave-like setting, known for its craft beers and traditional local food.
Baita La Faggeta [$25-$40] – A rustic mountain restaurant in Soriano nel Cimino, specializing in local cuisine, particularly mushroom and chestnut-based dishes, perfect after a forest walk.
Angoletto della Luce [$35-$60] – One of the best restaurants in Viterbo’s center, intimate and cozy, offering a modern menu faithful to local gastronomy with creative surprises and a regularly changing menu.
N’uovo Vino e Cucina [$40-$70] – Located in Sutri, this restaurant is noted in the Michelin guide for its modern cuisine and refined environment, offering a contemporary twist on local flavors.
gur.me [$30-$50] – A well-regarded modern restaurant in Viterbo, part of the new wave of Tuscia dining, focusing on refined preparations and quality ingredients (based on Gambero Rosso mention).
Piazzetta del Sole Osteria [$30-$50] – Located in Farnese, this quaint osteria produces innovative dishes while staying true to Tuscian cuisine, using seasonal produce, and is highly recommended by locals.
Osteria del Vecchio Orologio (Modern Twist) [$25-$40] – While traditional, this historic Viterbo restaurant (with 66 years of tradition) is also known for its innovative twists on traditional pasta dishes and excellent supplì.
Namo Ristobottega [$35-$60] – A Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant in Tarquinia, renowned for the seasonal, farm-to-table cuisine of its chef, Tiziana Favi, creating unmissable dishes with a green philosophy.
Forma [$40-$70] – Located in Civitavecchia (Northern Lazio coastal area), this is a modern Italian Contemporary restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide’s selection.
La Parolina [$80-$130] – Located in Trevinano (near the border of Tuscia/Lazio), this 1-Michelin-Starred restaurant offers country cooking with a refined, contemporary approach, with a focus on high-quality ingredients. (Note: Trevinano is slightly outside Viterbo Province but in the broader Tuscia area).
Enoteca La Torre [$70-$120] – Mentioned as one of the best restaurants in Viterbo, known for its superlative wine list and a high-quality, innovative menu that privileges local ingredients, offering an “initiatory journey to a world made of taste and flavors.”
L’Antico Ristorante Pizzeria La Scuderia [$50-$80] – Located in Viterbo, an elegant spot often praised for its refined setting and a menu that elevates local and traditional dishes with sophistication (based on high-end local reputation).
I Due Cigni [$60-$90] – An elegant restaurant in the Viterbo area, focusing on high-quality seafood and refined Italian cuisine, suitable for a special occasion. (Based on consistent high-end local reviews).
La Rimessa dei Pescatori [$25-$45] – A unique, seasonal (Apr-Sept), open-air spot on Lake Bolsena, serving daily fresh fish caught in the lake, from fritti (fried fish) to the local specialty zuppa di pesce (fish soup), paired with natural wines.
Ristorante Bistrot [$30-$50] – Located near Viterbo, this old country house with a beautiful portico specializes skillfully in fish, although all the menu items are noted as excellent, perfect for a summer evening.
Il Richiastro [$30-$50] – Open only during weekends and in winter in Viterbo, this refined yet informal spot offers medieval-inspired traditional cuisine, notably different kinds of soup and lombrichi alla vitorchianese.
Trattoria dei Cocci [$15-$30] – Located in Cerveteri, this spot offers classic Roman dishes such as Amatriciana and Carbonara, but also more challenging Roman street food like rigatoni pajata (intestine of unweaned calf), showcasing a blend of Roman and Northern Lazio cuisine.
Nonna Nena [$15-$25] – A cozy, family-run restaurant in the historic center of Viterbo, known for its very traditional, simple, and homemade food, popular with locals for a genuine experience.
Agriturismo Braciami [$20-$35] – An agritourism outside Viterbo where you can enjoy local, handmade pastas and desserts, but specializing in roasts, braised meats, and arrosticini cooked over an open grill.
Il Porticciolo [$25-$45] – Located on the northern shore of Lake Bracciano (Northern Lazio), offering local meat, lake fish, and in-house made pasta in a tranquil atmosphere.
La Cantina dei Monaci [$20-$35] – A rustic restaurant in the medieval neighborhood of Viterbo, specializing in local meats, cheeses, and simple, hearty traditional recipes, often noted for its wine selection.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
Sub Rosa: Found in Viterbo’s historic center, specifically on Piazza Del Gesù, this wine bar offers a classier, intimate atmosphere, known for serving a high-quality aperitivo spread with the purchase of a drink.
Shu Lounge: Located centrally in Viterbo, on Piazza della Erbe, this is a stylish lounge with a long, slim interior, metallic tables, and vibrant lighting. It is particularly popular during warmer months for its outdoor seating and sophisticated ambiance.
LAB RESTAURANT & DRINK: Situated on Piazza Giuseppe Verdi in Viterbo, this spot combines an excellent restaurant experience with a high-quality cocktail bar, offering a modern and refined setting for both dinner and after-hours drinks.
Blitz Caffè: A popular spot near Via della Sapienza in Viterbo’s old town, this café/bar features frequently re-decorated white walls with local art. It’s a lively, small venue where patrons often socialize outside with their drinks.
Nebula Bar Viterbo: A modern bar in Viterbo offering a selection of cocktails, located in the city for a casual and contemporary drink experience.
The Book Club: Found on Via Del Macel Maggiore in Viterbo, this café/bar offers a cozy, intimate atmosphere reminiscent of a living room, making it a great spot for quiet conversation over a drink.
Al Settantasette: Located on Via San Pellegrino in the heart of Viterbo’s well-preserved medieval quarter, this bar offers a chance to enjoy a drink in one of Europe’s largest medieval neighborhoods.
Chalet Garbini 1908: A historic location on Piazzale Antonio Gramsci in Viterbo, offering a classic café/bar atmosphere, often favored for an aperitivo or a leisurely drink.
Andrew’s Irish Pub: Viterbo’s main Irish pub, conveniently located just outside Porta Fiorentina near the train station, offering a range of beers and spirits in a familiar pub setting.
Grandori Porta Romana: Situated near Viterbo’s Porta Romana, this establishment provides a good mix of a café and bar, suitable for a relaxed start to the evening.
Essenza: Located on Viale Trieste in Viterbo, this bar/restaurant offers a contemporary setting and can be booked for cocktails and meals, providing a more upscale option in the city.
Caffè Grandori: Found on Piazza della Rocca in Viterbo, this spot is ideal for an aperitivo with a view of some of the city’s main historical buildings.
Ristorante La Pergoletta (Bolsena): While primarily a restaurant in Bolsena near Lake Bolsena, it features a bar area often used for post-dinner drinks and cocktails, with a view of the lake.
Il Monastero Bar & Ristorante (Caprarola): Situated near the Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola, this spot offers a refined setting for a drink, leveraging the historic atmosphere of the town.
Bar Vineria Il Calice (Tarquinia): A cozy wine bar in the historic center of Tarquinia, offering a selection of local wines and a casual atmosphere for a pre-dinner or post-dinner drink.
Nova Club: One of the more established nightclubs in Viterbo, known for hosting various themed nights, often featuring DJ sets that cover commercial and electronic music.
Thierra Club Privè Theatro Events: A known venue in Viterbo’s nightlife scene, this private club or event space hosts parties, ranging from dance to techno and house music, providing a premium experience.
Theatro Events: Located in Viterbo, this venue is a host for diverse nightlife events, from dedicated club nights to themed parties, drawing a young crowd.
Reverse: Situated in Valle Faul, inside Viterbo’s city walls, this is one of the few dedicated discos. It features a larger dance floor than most Viterbo venues, with colored lights and loud music.
Theatro Latino: A specific theme night or venue in Viterbo focused on Latin music, perfect for dancing to salsa, reggaeton, and other global rhythms.
Zest: A recognized club/nightlife spot in Viterbo that focuses on providing a dance-heavy experience with various musical genres throughout the night.
Viterbo Music Festival (Event-Based): While not a permanent club, this is a major umbrella of events and venues that hosts large-scale music parties and club-style shows in and around Viterbo, particularly during the summer season.
Prato Giardino (Seasonal/Event-Based): A location in Viterbo often used for open-air concerts and parties, which sometimes turn into club-like events, especially during the warmer months.
CINEMA FLORIDA (Event-Based): Occasionally transforms from a cinema to a venue for large-scale, themed club nights and parties in Viterbo.
Try: Located within the walls of Viterbo, this bar sometimes offers a small dance floor and a fun atmosphere, acting as a small-scale club alternative in the historic center.