POLONNARUWA

Polonnaruwa was the glorious medieval capital of Sri Lanka, flourishing from the 11th to 13th centuries, a testament to ancient Sinhalese ingenuity and artistry. Its vast archaeological park holds monumental ruins.

This former royal city is a serene blend of history, culture, and nature. It showcases the sophisticated architecture, monumental sculpture, and impressive hydraulic systems of a bygone golden era.

Ancient City Core & Royal Quarters

  • Polonnaruwa Vatadage: A beautifully preserved circular relic house, one of the finest examples of its kind in Sri Lanka, featuring intricate stone carvings.

  • Royal Palace of Parakramabahu I: The massive ruins of what was once a seven-story palace complex, hinting at its immense scale and grandeur.

  • Council Chamber of King Parakramabahu: An elegant ruin with a tiered stone platform and carved elephants adorning the base.

  • Kumara Pokuna (Royal Baths): An ancient royal bathing pond, designed with sophisticated water inlets and outlets.

  • Shiva Devalaya No. 1: The best-preserved Hindu temple in the city, showcasing Chola influence with its stone construction.

  • Nissanka Latha Mandapaya: A unique stone structure featuring lotus-stalk pillars that surround a central stupa.

  • Sathmahal Prasada (Seven-Storey Structure): An unusual pyramidal structure of unknown purpose, resembling Southeast Asian architecture.

Monumental Religious Sites

  • Gal Vihara: A world-renowned rock temple featuring four magnificent, colossal Buddha images carved out of a single large granite slab.

  • Lankatilaka Image House: A majestic, towering brick structure housing a colossal, headless standing Buddha statue within its massive walls.

  • Thuparama Image House: One of the oldest structures in the city, known for its distinct barrel-vaulted roof design.

  • Rankoth Vehera: The largest stupa in Polonnaruwa, a massive brick dome that dominates the northern section of the ancient city.

  • Kiri Vehera: A well-preserved white stupa, second in size only to Rankoth Vehera.

  • Alahena Pirivena Monastic Complex: The ruins of a great monastic university complex that flourished during the Polonnaruwa period.

  • Demala Maha Seya: The remains of an enormous, unfinished or collapsed stupa, believed to have been built by a general of King Parakramabahu I.

Surrounding Area & Hydraulic Systems

  • Parakrama Samudra (Sea of Parakrama): A huge, man-made reservoir constructed by King Parakramabahu I, an engineering marvel that once irrigated the entire region.

  • Potgul Vehera: A unique circular brick structure, often identified as a library or a preaching hall.

  • Statue of King Parakramabahu I: A colossal stone statue, possibly of the great king, holding an object often interpreted as a manuscript or yoke.

  • Lotus Bath (Nelum Pokuna): A small, elegantly carved bathing pond shaped like a fully bloomed lotus flower.

  • Archaeological Museum: Houses artifacts and models of the ancient city, providing essential context to the ruins.

  • Gedige Ruins: A term for the large, vaulted image houses, including the Lankatilaka and Tivanka Image Houses, showcasing the era’s brickwork.

  • Tivanka Image House: Famous for its bent (three-bend or tivanka) standing Buddha image and its partially preserved frescoes.

Cycle the Ancient City: Rent a bicycle and explore the vast Polonnaruwa Archaeological Site, which allows you to move at your own pace between the palaces, stupas, and Buddha statues.

Visit the Gal Vihara: Marvel at the four splendidly preserved rock-cut Buddha statues—sitting, standing, and reclining—that are the highlight of the ruins.

Explore the Parakrama Samudra (Sea of Parakrama): Walk or cycle along the bund of this massive ancient reservoir, which dominates the landscape and is a testament to ancient Sinhalese engineering. It’s a great spot for sunset.

Discover the Quadrangle: Spend time in the most concentrated area of ruins, home to the Vatadage (Circular Relic House), the Thuparama, and the Lankathilaka Temple.

Take a Safari in Minneriya or Kaudulla National Park: Go on a jeep safari, especially between July and October, to witness ‘The Gathering’—a spectacular sight of hundreds of elephants congregating around the water sources.

Visit the Polonnaruwa Museum: Gain context and a deeper understanding of the history and architecture of the ancient city by viewing the impressive collection of artifacts.

Witness the Demala Maha Seya: Explore the unfinished yet massive stupa, which provides a dramatic contrast to the completed structures and a sense of scale.

Visit the Royal Palace Complex: Wander through the ruins of King Parakramabahu I’s palace, imagining the scale of the original seven-story structure.

Take a Local Cooking Class: Learn to prepare authentic Sri Lankan dishes, such as various curries, pol sambol (coconut relish), and roti.

Observe Local Pottery Making: Visit a local village near Polonnaruwa to see traditional pottery being made using age-old techniques.

Go Birdwatching at Giritale Tank: This smaller reservoir is a fantastic spot for bird enthusiasts, attracting a wide variety of resident and migratory species.

Walk up the Kiri Vihara: Climb the white, well-preserved stupa to appreciate its size and the peaceful environment of the surrounding forest.

Bicycle is the Best Way to See the Ruins: The Archaeological Site is vast and spread out. Renting a bicycle (available near the entrance, guesthouses, or town) is the most efficient, pleasant, and highly recommended way to explore.

Tuk-Tuks and Drivers: For the surrounding areas, including the national parks and further-flung sites, hiring a tuk-tuk for the day or a vehicle with a driver is the standard and most flexible option. Always agree on the fare before starting your journey.

Local Buses: Polonnaruwa is well-connected to other major towns like Dambulla and Colombo by public bus. They are extremely cheap but can be crowded and slow. The main bus stand is in Kaduruwela (New Town).

Intercity Train: There is a train station in Polonnaruwa connecting to Colombo and other parts of the island, offering a scenic and comfortable travel option.

Dress Code for Sacred Sites: When visiting the ruins and temples, it is essential to dress respectfully. Shoulders and knees must be covered. You will also need to remove your shoes and hats before entering any religious area, including the archaeological sites. It’s a good idea to wear socks, as the stone pavement can get very hot from the sun.

Respect Buddha Images: Always turn your back to the Buddha statues when taking photos, and never pose with them. Sitting on, leaning against, or pointing at a statue is considered highly disrespectful.

Monkey Behavior: The ancient city is home to several species of monkeys, including the Toque Macaque. They are accustomed to humans and can be bold. Keep food and valuables secure and do not feed them.

Dining: Local dining focuses on rice and curry. Look for simple, family-run restaurants (often called hotels or cafes) for authentic and budget-friendly food. Try local specialties like hoppers and the fresh river fish from the Parakrama Samudra.

Best Time to Visit the Ruins: The tropical heat can be intense. Start your exploration of the ruins early in the morning (around 7:30 AM) or later in the afternoon (after 3 PM) to avoid the midday sun.

Hidden Gems:

  • Neluwa Tank: A smaller, less-visited ancient tank that offers a very peaceful, rural setting, often frequented by local fishermen and excellent for sunset views away from the main crowds.
  • Pothgul Vihara: Located a little south of the main site, this is the oldest library in the country and has a curious circular plan. A nearby large stone-carved statue of a man (believed to be King Parakramabahu I or a sage) is also a must-see.
  • The Rice Fields: Take a detour while cycling to ride through the vast, lush green rice paddies outside the ancient city walls to appreciate the agricultural heart of the region.

Tipping: Tipping is not mandatory but is customary for good service in restaurants, for hotel staff, and for tour guides/drivers. A 10% service charge is often added to restaurant bills, but if not, a small tip is appreciated.

Priyamali Gedara [$5-$15] – A highly-regarded spot offering a true Sri Lankan village-style lunch buffet with an extensive selection of curries and dishes, often eaten in an open, rustic setting.

Jaga Food [$5-$15] – A family-run restaurant with a cozy, garden ambiance known for its local, home-cooked food, often including an array of vegetarian and vegan curries grown from their own garden.

Gami Gedara [$5-$15] – Known for offering a homelike food experience with traditional rice and curries, sometimes served wrapped in a banana leaf for an authentic touch, and a rustic ambiance.

Rasa Bojun Gedara [$5-$15] – A popular local spot for a large, authentic Sri Lankan rice and curry spread with a variety of flavorful vegetable and meat curries.

Chillies Lathpandura Restaurant [$5-$15] – Offers authentic Sri Lankan cuisine in a traditional setting, known for a good variety of local dishes and an immersive experience.

New Ariyasinhala Hotel [$5-$15] – A local eatery frequented by residents rather than tourists, offering authentic Sri Lankan favorites like Kottu Rotti and egg fried rice at very reasonable prices.

Govi Gedara [$5-$15] – Praised for its traditional rice and curries and warm hospitality, providing a genuine taste of Sri Lankan home cooking.

Pabalu Mandapa – Authentic Sinhala Cuisine [$5-$15] – A place dedicated to showcasing the essence of Sinhala cuisine, focusing on traditional recipes and local flavors.

Hela Bojun Hala-Polonnaruwa [$3-$10] – A government-supported initiative selling authentic, clean, and very affordable Sri Lankan country food and short eats, often made by local women.

Maha Kithula Tourist Restaurant [$5-$15] – Located slightly away from the main town hustle, offering soul food, a mix of exotic non-veg and traditional veg recipes, and personalized attention.

Thidas Arana Restaurant [$5-$15] – Known for authentic local food available throughout the day, often featuring a well-spread buffet of local curries, soup, and desserts.

Rajadhani Restaurant Polonnaruwa [$5-$15] – A spot to experience authentic Sri Lankan cuisine, often favored for its rice and curry and traditional preparation.

Dine Home Restaurant [$5-$15] – A family-friendly dining destination known for serving delicious local dishes and providing a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere.

Ariya Rest House [$8-$20] – Offers authentic Sri Lankan flavors and traditional hospitality, often featuring a buffet of local curries.

Saruketha Restaurant [$8-$20] – Experience the rich flavors of Sri Lanka, known for its unforgettable rice and curry dishes and celebratory atmosphere.

Dine Time Family Restaurant [$8-$18] – A popular, budget-friendly spot in Kaduruwela Town, known for its Mixed Rice and Mee Goreng, with an inviting atmosphere.

New NDK Restaurant [$5-$15] – Known for authentic Asian flavors with a focus on local Sri Lankan dishes, blending tradition with taste.

Hotel Darshana & Restaurant [$5-$15] – A culinary destination in Polonnaruwa, offering authentic Sri Lankan cuisine and a variety of local specialties.

Wishma Restaurant [$5-$15] – Serves local cuisine, favored for its authentic taste and being a reliable choice for a traditional meal.

The Lavish Polonnaruwa Restaurant [$15-$30] – Located in a new-built property, the restaurant serves delicious local cuisine with continental, American, and other international breakfast options, and a focus on clean, new facilities.

Sudu Araliya Restaurant (Hotel Sudu Araliya) [$20-$40] – The main restaurant of the hotel, featuring an extensive buffet with traditional Sri Lankan specialties alongside international dishes in an elegant, spacious setting.

Lake View Restaurant (Hotel Sudu Araliya) [$25-$45] – Offers a premier dining experience within the hotel, possibly with views, blending traditional flair with international choices.

Ekho Lake House Polonnaruwa Restaurant [$20-$40] – The restaurant at this highly-rated hotel provides a mix of Sri Lankan and international cuisine, often with beautiful views of the lake.

Araliya Bar Lounge (Hotel Sudu Araliya) [$15-$35] – An upscale bar and lounge within the hotel, offering a selection of signature spirits, wines, and cocktails, and likely a bar menu.

Rajadhani Indian Restaurant [$10-$25] – Specializes in Indian cuisine, offering a variety of dishes like biryani, dosas, Indian breads, and a range of curries, providing an alternative to local Sri Lankan food.

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