SHIKOKU HENRO PILGRIMAGE
The Shikoku Henro is an ancient, 1,200-kilometer Buddhist pilgrimage to 88 temples circling the island of Shikoku, following the path of the revered monk Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi).
This spiritual journey, the o-henro-san, offers a profound path for self-reflection. It winds through rugged mountains, vibrant cities, and tranquil coastlines, famed for the locals’ unique hospitality.
Most Popular Attractions
Core Temples & Pilgrim Hubs:
Ryozenji (Temple 1): The official starting point, where pilgrims purchase their essential gear and begin their spiritual journey.
Ōkuboji (Temple 88): The final temple, signifying the completion (Kechi-gan) of the 88-temple circuit.
Ishiteji (Temple 51): Known for its striking, ancient Niomon gate and the legendary stone that appeared in Emon Saburō’s hand.
Chikurinji (Temple 31): Perched on Godaisan, this temple is often referred to as “Kochi’s Koya-san” and is a major cultural landmark.
Jizoji (Temple 5): Famed for housing the Shogun Jizo Bosatsu, a statue said to have been carved by Kōbō Daishi himself.
Kannonji (Temple 69) & Jinnein (Temple 68): Two temples located on the same grounds in Kagawa Prefecture, historically a single compound.
Anrakuji (Temple 6): Notable for its rare feature of having an onsen (hot spring) guesthouse right on the temple premises.
Joruriji (Temple 46): The first temple in the Ehime prefecture section of the pilgrimage.
Mountain & Ascetic Sites:
Tairyūji (Temple 21): A majestic, high-altitude mountain temple, accessible by a thrilling ropeway, near the site of Kūkai’s training (Shashinga-An).
Kakurinji (Temple 20): Known as the “Crane Temple,” a serene, atmospheric mountain retreat deep in the cedar forests.
Shosanji (Temple 12): One of the most challenging mountain ascents on the route, embodying the “austerity and discipline” stage.
Unpenji (Temple 66): The highest temple on the pilgrimage, situated on the prefectural border, often requiring a ropeway for access.
Iwayaji (Temple 45): A unique temple built into a dramatic, vertical cliff face, famous for its rock-carved Buddhas and difficult approach.
Iyadaniji (Temple 71): Features stunning stone steps and caves associated with the ascetic practices of Kōbō Daishi.
Coastal Landmarks & Natural Beauty:
Kongofukuji (Temple 38): Set dramatically on the wild, remote tip of Cape Ashizuri in Kochi, with vast Pacific Ocean views.
Cape Muroto: A scenic geological park on the coast, featuring temples like Hotsumisakiji (Temple 24) and associated with Kūkai’s enlightenment.
Yakuōji (Temple 23): Located by the sea, this temple is traditionally visited by those praying for luck, particularly during “unlucky years.”
Shimanto River: Known as the “Last Clear Stream of Japan,” this major natural feature in Kochi offers peaceful views and river activities.
Cultural Experiences & Non-Temple Sites:
Osettai Culture: The uniquely welcoming tradition of receiving alms or acts of kindness from the Shikoku locals along the route.
Dogo Onsen (Ehime): One of Japan’s oldest and most famous hot springs, offering pilgrims a historic place to rest and recuperate.
Iya Valley and Vine Bridges: A secluded, mountainous region in Tokushima, known for its deep gorges and ancient, suspended vine bridges.
Awa Odori Dance Festival: Tokushima’s annual, vibrant summer dance festival, one of the most famous in all of Japan.
Naruto Whirlpools: A stunning natural phenomenon of massive tidal whirlpools in the straits off the coast of Tokushima.
The Nōkyō-chō (Pilgrim Book): The physical object for collecting the unique, handwritten Goshuin (stamps and seals) that serves as proof of the journey.
Activities & Experiences
Walk a Section of the Henro: Experience the pilgrimage in the traditional way by walking a segment of the 1,200km route, even if you can’t complete the full 40-60 day journey.
Visit Temple No. 1, Ryōzen-ji: Start (or simply visit) the symbolic beginning of the pilgrimage in Tokushima and purchase your traditional pilgrim’s gear and stamp book (Nōkyōchō).
Collect Temple Stamps (Goshuin): Have your Nōkyōchō stamped and inscribed with beautiful calligraphy at the Nōkyōsho (temple office) of each of the 88 temples.
Participate in Temple Etiquette: Follow the customs at each temple—bow at the gate, cleanse at the chōzuya, light a candle and incense, offer a name slip (Osamefuda), and chant the Heart Sutra (Hannya Shingyō) at the Main and Daishi Halls.
Receive O-settai: Experience the local custom of receiving gifts (food, drink, small tokens, or rest) from locals, an act of charity and good karma. Always accept with deep gratitude and offer an Osamefuda in return.
Stay in a Shukubō (Temple Lodging): Book an overnight stay at a temple to fully immerse yourself in the spiritual atmosphere and enjoy traditional shōjin ryōri (vegetarian Buddhist cuisine).
Hike to Mountain Temples: Take the rewarding, challenging hikes to remote, high-altitude temples like Kakurin-ji (T20) or Tairyū-ji (T21), or use the scenic ropeways for a spectacular view.
Visit the Cave of Kōbō Daishi: Reflect at Mikurodo Cave near Cape Muroto (Kōchi), where the monk Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi) is said to have gained enlightenment.
Find Relaxation at Dōgo Onsen: Take a restorative dip in Matsuyama City’s Dōgo Onsen (Ehime), one of Japan’s oldest hot springs, famous for its grand, historic wooden building.
Reflect at Mount Kōya (Kōya-san): While not on Shikoku, many pilgrims complete the journey by visiting the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, where Kōbō Daishi rests, to report their completion.
Wear the Traditional Attire: Don the white robe (Hakui), conical hat (Sugegasa), and walking staff (Kongōzue) to signify your status as a pilgrim and invite the warm reception of locals.
Visit the 20 Bekkaku Temples: For a deeper spiritual challenge, consider visiting the additional 20 “extra” sacred sites, which expand the full experience of the Henro.
Local Tips & Transport
Multiple Modes of Travel: You are not required to walk! The pilgrimage can be completed by foot (40-60 days), bicycle (9-12 days), car (9-10 days), or bus tour (12-13 days). Choose the one that suits your physical condition, time, and budget.
Consider a Rental Car: For those on a tight schedule or planning to visit remote mountain temples, a rental car offers the greatest flexibility, especially in rural areas where public transport can be infrequent.
Utilize Rail Passes: The All Shikoku Rail Pass is often more suitable and cost-effective than the Japan Rail Pass for travel within the island, as it covers both JR and many private lines.
Bus and Train Connections: Use the extensive bus and train networks for connections between major cities and temples. In the less-populated areas, especially Kōchi, be prepared for longer distances and less frequent services.
Travel Light: If walking, aim to keep your backpack as light as possible (under 5kg is recommended). You can purchase food and drink daily, and laundry services are available at many lodgings.
Dōgyō Ninin: Embrace the philosophy of “Two Traveling Together“—the belief that the spirit of Kōbō Daishi is always with you on your journey. This phrase is written on the pilgrim’s hat.
Respect the Staff: When crossing a bridge, do not strike your Kongōzue (walking staff) on the ground, as it is a tradition to believe Kōbō Daishi might be sleeping underneath.
The O-settai Tradition: This is a core part of the culture. Never ask for O-settai, but if you receive an offering of kindness from a local, accept it gracefully with deep gratitude. This is a special connection between the local community and the pilgrim (O-henro-san).
Start/End Options: While most start clockwise (Jun’uchi) at Temple 1 (Ryōzen-ji), starting counter-clockwise (Gyaku-uchi) from Temple 88 is believed to bring three times the spiritual merit.
Accommodation Booking: It is wise to book your accommodation (Minshuku, Ryokan, or Shukubō) in advance, especially during busy seasons (Spring and Autumn), as lodging options near the more rural temples can be limited.
Temple Manners: Always wash your hands and mouth at the purification basin (chōzuya) before entering the main temple area. Place your walking stick at the designated stand before entering the halls.
Best Time to Go: Spring (March to May) and Autumn (October to November) offer the most pleasant walking temperatures, avoiding the intense heat of summer and the rain/cold of winter.
Top Restaurants
Sanuki Udon Shop Nakao (Kagawa) [$8-$15] – A self-service udon shop near Zentsuji Temple (T75), famous for its thick, chewy Sanuki Udon noodles and a variety of toppings, a true local’s spot in “Udon Prefecture.”
Tokushima Ramen Higashidai (Tokushima) [$8-$15] – Known for its intensely savory “brown soup” Tokushima Ramen, which often includes a raw egg and sweet, seasoned pork belly—a distinct and hearty post-walk meal.
Hirome Market (Kochi) [$10-$30] – Not a single restaurant, but a vibrant indoor market in Kochi City center with numerous food stalls and shared seating, essential for tasting Katsuo no Tataki (seared bonito).
Katsuo-bune (Kochi) [$20-$40] – A dedicated bonito restaurant near Cape Muroto (area of T24-T26) that serves incredibly fresh Katsuo no Tataki (bonito seared over straw fire) and other local seafood dishes.
Udon Baka Ichidai (Kagawa) [$8-$15] – Arguably one of Kagawa’s most famous udon shops near Takamatsu, known for its incredible Kama-tama Udon (hot udon mixed with egg and soy sauce), often having a line of locals.
Yakitori Marugame Honten (Kagawa) [$25-$45] – Located in Marugame City (area of T74), this spot is famous for Hone-tsuki-dori (bone-in chicken leg), a local specialty grilled with garlic and spices.
Minshuku-Shokudo Kotobuki Shokudou (Tokushima) [$20-$40] – A highly-regarded Minshuku (guesthouse with meals) near T5, praised by pilgrims for its generous, authentic, home-cooked Japanese dinners and warm hospitality.
Waraku (Ehime) [$20-$40] – A popular local dining spot in Matsuyama (near Dogo Onsen and T51) specializing in Taimeshi (sea bream rice), the regional specialty of Ehime, served two ways: cooked with the rice or as sashimi over rice.
Awa Wild Game Restaurant AOKI (Tokushima) [$30-$50] – Near T20 Kakurinji, this restaurant offers local wild game dishes, such as wild boar and deer, offering a unique taste of the mountainous Shikoku interior.
Ajisai (Ehime) [$15-$30] – A local favorite in Uwajima, Ehime (near T41), specializing in Uwajima Taimeshi, the sashimi-style sea bream over rice that is unique to this southern part of the prefecture.
Iya Soba Kiri (Tokushima) [$15-$25] – Located in the remote Iya Valley, famous for its rustic, thick-cut Iya Soba noodles, a mountain specialty.
Daikokudo (Kochi) [$25-$45] – An atmospheric Izakaya (Japanese pub) in Kochi City where you can try the freshest Katsuo no Tataki alongside many other local delicacies from the sea and rivers.
Garden Time KONOMU (Tokushima) [$10-$25] – A cozy cafe/restaurant near T21 Tairyuji that offers Western-style and local dishes, a great spot for a comfortable, non-traditional break during a mountain walk.
Kuraudo (Kagawa) [$20-$35] – An authentic Japanese restaurant in Takamatsu that provides an extensive menu of local Kagawa cuisine and fresh seafood from the Seto Inland Sea.
Nokkyō-an (Tokushima) [$10-$20] – Often recommended by locals in Tokushima City, offering simple, hearty, traditional Japanese meals, popular with local workers and pilgrims alike.
Konpira Udon (Kagawa) [$8-$15] – Located near Kotohira-gū Shrine (not an official temple, but a common detour for pilgrims near T74), offering excellent, simple Sanuki Udon.
Sakai (Ehime) [$20-$40] – A seafood restaurant in Imabari (area of T54-T58) known for its fresh fish caught in the Seto Inland Sea, served as sashimi or grilled.
Shōjin Ryōri at Temple Lodgings (Varies) [$30-$60] – While not a restaurant, the Buddhist vegetarian cuisine served at many temple lodgings (Shukubo) along the route (e.g., T12 Shosanji) is an essential, authentic, and high-quality culinary experience.
Suehiro (Kochi) [$15-$30] – A local spot in Susaki City (near T24) specializing in Nabe-yaki Ramen (pot-cooked ramen), a local specialty served boiling hot in an earthenware pot.
Michi no Eki (Roadside Stations) (All Prefectures) [$8-$20] – Various roadside stations like Odanokyo Seseragi in Uchiko or Itano near T1 have excellent food courts that focus on unique local and seasonal specialties, acting like a higher-quality local food hall.
Ippin Oryori Ootaki (Ehime) [$80-$150] – A refined Japanese restaurant in Matsuyama (near T51) with a flexible menu of locally sourced, high-quality Japanese cuisine, perfect for a celebratory break in the journey.
Kyoufu Ippin Ryouri Kiyomizu (Ehime) [$100-$180] – Another high-end spot in Matsuyama, famous for its exquisite Japanese course meals using premium seasonal ingredients and an extensive selection of sake.
Zatorijiro (Tokushima) [$30-$60] – A sophisticated Japanese dining experience in Tokushima City, offering original and refined dishes often paired with local sake.
Nanohana (Tokushima) [$40-$70] – A highly-regarded restaurant in Tokushima City known for its innovative Japanese dishes and excellent selection of local sake.
Kawamuraya (Kochi) [$50-$90] – A very respected restaurant in Kochi City specializing in traditional Kaiseki (multi-course) dining with a focus on local seafood, particularly bonito.
Ajidokoro Hōrin (Kagawa) [$40-$80] – A fine dining restaurant in Takamatsu focusing on the best local and seasonal ingredients from Kagawa Prefecture, offering a refined taste of the region.
Tosa-Jiro no Mise (Kochi) [$35-$60] – An upscale but traditional spot in Kochi for authentic, high-quality Tosa (old name for Kochi) cuisine, specializing in seasonal fish and vegetables.
Auberge Tosayama (Kochi) [$80-$150] – Located in a serene, remote mountain area near Kochi City, this auberge offers a high-end French-Japanese fusion dining experience utilizing local Kochi ingredients.
Shōjuan (Ehime) [$50-$90] – A highly-rated Japanese restaurant in Matsuyama known for its elegant presentation and carefully selected seasonal ingredients, offering a quiet, refined atmosphere.
Convenience Stores (Konbini) (All Prefectures) [$5-$15] – While not a “restaurant,” they are an essential food source for pilgrims. Lawson, Family Mart, and 7-Eleven offer high-quality bento boxes, onigiri (rice balls), sandwiches, and hot food, which are perfect for a quick, economical, and often unexpectedly good meal on the trail.
Panya (Bakeries) (Varies) [$3-$8] – Small, local bakeries are common in towns and are great for picking up fresh bread and pastries for a walking lunch.
Local Supermarkets (Varies) [$5-$15] – Supermarkets offer inexpensive lunch boxes, local produce, and snacks, especially good for buying dinner if your lodging does not include meals.
Noodles stands/small local eateries (Varies) [$8-$15] – Tiny, often nameless ramen or udon shops found in smaller towns and alongside main roads, often offering a warm, simple, and very authentic meal experience with a set menu.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
Bar K (Matsuyama): A sophisticated, hidden bar tucked away near Matsuyama’s Okaido shopping street. It offers a premium selection of whiskey and meticulously crafted classic cocktails in a quiet, refined setting.
Ichi The Hostel Bar (Tokushima City): Located within a popular hostel near Tokushima Station (often the starting point of the pilgrimage), this bar is known for its relaxed atmosphere and a decent selection of classic cocktails, perfect for mingling with other travelers.
Mephistopheles (Kochi City): More of a whimsical, retro café/bar near Kochi Station, it’s famous for serving generous portions and being a popular spot to enjoy a coffee, a light meal, or a beer, often as a local’s first stop.
Blue Brew (Kochi Prefecture, slightly off the main trail): A craft brewery and taproom located in the mountains outside Kochi City, offering locally brewed craft beer in a serene, natural setting by a stream—a perfect daytime or early evening stop.
Shisha Bar Raku (Takamatsu): Found in the bustling Kawaramachi district, this spot offers a relaxed atmosphere for enjoying cocktails, shisha, and a quiet conversation, often staying open later than many other local bars.
Bar Shinkai (Matsuyama): An intimate spot near the Dōgo Onsen area known for its master bartender and fine Japanese whiskey selection, serving expertly prepared drinks in a traditional Japanese bar environment.
Bar Nomiya (Kochi City): A small, stylish bar in the Obiyamachi area known for its personalized service and a focus on both classic and unique cocktails tailored to the patron’s taste.
Sake & Bar Oku (Takamatsu): While primarily focused on sake (Japanese rice wine), it offers a stylish setting in the city center where you can also find other quality drinks, including Japanese-inspired cocktails.
The Crown & Anchor (Tokushima City): An authentic British-style pub near the Awa Odori Kaikan, offering a wide selection of international beers on tap and mixed drinks in a friendly, casual setting.
Bar Sekizui (Matsuyama): Known as a “master bar,” this establishment near Matsuyama Castle offers expertly mixed cocktails and a high-end atmosphere for a quiet, contemplative drink.
En Hostel & Bar (Kochi City): Located in the Obiyamachi shopping arcade area, this hostel bar provides a casual, welcoming environment for travelers and locals to share a drink, including a selection of beers and simple mixed drinks.
Lobby Lounge ‘The Bar’ at Hotel Clement (Takamatsu): A more upscale hotel bar near Takamatsu Station offering a quiet, spacious lounge for classic cocktails and a view over the city, ideal for a refined evening.
Bar Ginza (Tokushima City): A classic, dimly-lit Japanese-style cocktail bar in the central entertainment district, specializing in well-made standard cocktails and high-quality spirits.
Bar Six (Matsuyama): An intimate, speakeasy-style bar in the central part of the city, known for its extensive whiskey list and skillful bartenders who can create any classic cocktail.