KAGAWA & SETO INLAND SEA
Kagawa is the serene gateway to the Seto Inland Sea, an area famed for its extraordinary blend of contemporary art and timeless natural beauty. It offers a journey through captivating landscapes and cultural depth.
This region masterfully intertwines modern architectural brilliance with traditional Japanese life, primarily on its small, art-focused islands. It is a quiet yet profound place of artistic pilgrimage and coastal tranquility.
Most Popular Attractions
Art Islands Core:
Naoshima (Art Island): The world-renowned heart of the Setouchi Triennale, featuring groundbreaking art and architecture.
Benesse House Museum: An innovative combination of a museum and hotel, designed by Tadao Ando, overlooking the sea.
Chichu Art Museum: A remarkable underground museum on Naoshima, showcasing the works of Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria.
Art House Project (Naoshima): A series of renovated traditional houses in Naoshima’s Honmura area transformed into art installations.
“Yellow Pumpkin” by Yayoi Kusama (Naoshima): The iconic, instantly recognizable spotted pumpkin installation on the island’s pier.
Teshima Art Museum: An ethereal, shell-shaped structure on Teshima island, housing a single, mesmerizing nature-based artwork.
Les Archives du Cœur (Teshima): A unique sound art project by Christian Boltanski that records and plays the heartbeats of visitors.
Shodoshima Olive Park: A Greek-themed park with windmills and olive groves, famous for its association with the movie Kiki’s Delivery Service.
Angel Road (Shodoshima): A sandbar connecting small islands that is only accessible on foot during low tide, symbolizing romantic connection.
Museum of Contemporary Art (Inujima): A site-specific art project using materials and ruins from a former copper refinery.
Takamatsu City & Regional Culture:
Ritsurin Garden: A spectacular, historically significant Japanese landscape garden considered one of the finest in the country.
Takamatsu Castle (Tamamo Park): The ruins of a rare seaside castle, incorporating seawater in its moats.
Takamatsu Symbol Tower: The tallest building in Shikoku, offering dining, shops, and panoramic views of the city and sea.
Kagawa Museum: Showcasing the history, art, and folklore of Kagawa Prefecture.
Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum: The former studio and residence of the acclaimed sculptor, displaying many of his uncompleted works.
Shikoku Mura Village: An open-air museum preserving and exhibiting traditional buildings from across the Shikoku region.
Natural & Spiritual Sites:
Konpira-san (Kotohira Shrine): A revered Shinto shrine located high up Mount Zōzu, requiring a climb of over 1,300 stone steps.
Mt. Yashima: A scenic, flat-topped mountain offering magnificent views of the Seto Inland Sea, also the site of a historic battle.
Megijima (Onigashima – Demon Island): An island rumored to be the home of the demon in the legend of Momotarō, featuring a vast cave.
Sanuki Udon Experience: Kagawa is famously known as “Udon Prefecture”; attractions include various famous udon shops and hands-on cooking classes.
Marugame Castle: One of Japan’s twelve remaining original castles, noted for its beautiful stone walls.
Kan’nonji Temple & Zentsū-ji Temple: Important sites on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, with Zentsū-ji being the birthplace of Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi).
Activities & Experiences
Go Art-Island Hopping: Use ferries to explore the unique art installations across various islands, making Naoshima, Teshima, and Inujima key stops.
Contemplate the Art at Chichu Art Museum (Naoshima): Experience a unique, Tadao Ando-designed underground museum where natural light dramatically changes the experience of works by artists like Claude Monet and James Turrell. (Advance online reservation is often required).
Wander through the Art House Project (Naoshima): Explore the Honmura district where artists have converted and revitalized traditional, empty houses into site-specific art installations.
Cycle Teshima by E-Bike: Rent an electric bicycle to easily traverse the hilly island, stopping to visit the Teshima Art Museum and other installations nestled in rice fields and nature.
Photograph Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins (Naoshima): Get your iconic shot with the polka-dot pumpkins, particularly the famous Yellow Pumpkin, an emblematic piece of the area’s art movement.
Explore the Industrial Ruins at Inujima Seirensho Art Museum: Visit this museum built on the ruins of a former copper refinery, which incorporates the industrial heritage and uses natural energy and local materials.
Hike to Kankakei Gorge (Shodoshima): Take a ropeway or hike through this majestic gorge, often listed as one of Japan’s most beautiful valleys, with stunning views of the islands, especially during autumn.
Search for the Angel Road (Shodoshima): Walk across the tidal sandbar that appears only at low tide, connecting three small islands off the coast of Shodoshima.
Learn About “Liquid Gold” at an Olive Park (Shodoshima): Explore the island’s Mediterranean-like olive groves, learn about olive oil production, and sample local olive products.
Experience the History of Soy Sauce in Hishio-no-Sato (Shodoshima): Visit the historic Soy Sauce Village, home to traditional wooden breweries (some dating back to the 19th century) and offering tasting tours.
Relax at a Public Art Bathhouse (Naoshima): Visit I Love Yu, a functioning public bathhouse designed as an art installation, blending modern art with local custom.
Hike the Labyrinthine Streets of Ogijima: Explore the densely packed village that climbs the hillside, featuring various small outdoor art installations and narrow, winding alleyways.
Local Tips & Transport
Ferry is Essential: The primary means of transport between the islands and the mainland (Takamatsu Port in Kagawa, Uno Port in Okayama) is by ferry or high-speed boat.
Island-Hopping Strategy: Ferries operate on specific schedules, often with last departures in the late afternoon/early evening. Always check the latest ferry timetables in advance, as missed connections can leave you stranded overnight.
Getting Around the Islands:
- Buses: Naoshima has a limited public bus service, which can be crowded, especially around ferry arrivals and art sites.
- Bikes/E-bikes: Highly recommended for Teshima and Naoshima for maximum flexibility. You can rent them near the main ports. Be aware of the hills!
- Walking: Many art sites on islands like Inujima and Ogijima are only accessible by foot along narrow, sloped village paths.
From Takamatsu: Takamatsu Port is the most convenient hub in Kagawa Prefecture for accessing Naoshima, Teshima, and Shodoshima. It is easily reached via rail and air (Takamatsu Airport).
The Art Island Ethos: The art movement is dedicated to revitalizing the islands by blending contemporary art, traditional island life, and nature. Take time to appreciate the way the art integrates with the local villages, architecture, and sea views.
Museum Closures: Many major art museums and galleries are closed on Mondays (or Tuesdays if Monday is a national holiday). Always check opening hours and days in advance to avoid disappointment.
Advance Booking: For key sites like the Chichu Art Museum and the Art House Project’s ‘Kinza’, you often need to book tickets online in advance, sometimes with specified entry times. Check the official Benesse Art Site Naoshima website.
Embrace the Island Pace: Island life is slower and quieter than the mainland. Enjoy the tranquil atmosphere, the local fishermen, and the serene beauty of the Seto Inland Sea. Restaurants and shops may have limited hours and options, so plan accordingly.
Udon is King: Kagawa Prefecture is famously known as “Udon Prefecture” for its renowned Sanuki udon. Don’t leave the region without having a bowl (or three) of these thick, chewy wheat noodles, often served simply with a clear dashi broth.
Hidden Gems:
- Naoshima Bath ‘I♥湯’: An eccentric, functioning public bathhouse designed as an art installation. A must-do for an authentic and quirky local experience.
- Ritsurin Garden (Takamatsu): One of Japan’s most beautiful historical gardens, perfect for a peaceful half-day visit before or after your island hopping.
- The Labyrinth Town (Shodoshima): A complex, narrow network of alleys in the Tonosho Honmachi area, historically designed to confuse pirates and now a charming spot to explore.
Top Restaurants
Ishii Shouten (石井商店) [$5-$15] – A popular, no-frills udon shop near Miyanoura Port on Naoshima, perfect for a quick and authentic bowl of local Sanuki Udon.
Kinosaki Udon Naoshima Ten (きのさきうどん直島店) [$5-$15] – A highly-rated udon restaurant on Naoshima where you can enjoy the region’s famous thick, chewy noodles.
Naoshima Shokudo (なおしま食堂) [$10-$20] – Located in the Tsutsujiso area of Naoshima, this spot offers traditional, heartwarming set meals (teishoku) using local ingredients and fresh seafood.
Komame Shokudo (こまめ食堂) [$10-$20] – A charming café/diner in a renovated old private house in the mountains of Shodoshima, famous for its Hishio Don (rice bowl using local soy sauce and seasonal ingredients).
Baru & Ryori Haru (バル＆料理 ハル) [$20-$35] – A highly-regarded, small restaurant/bar in Naoshima known for its excellent local seafood dishes and a cozy, friendly atmosphere.
Chikurin (竹林) [$30-$50] – A tiny, authentic local izakaya on Naoshima (Honmura area) that seats only a few and is beloved by locals for fresh seafood and an old-school atmosphere—arrive early to get a seat.
Shima Shoku DO Miyanda (島食DOみやんだ) [$15-$25] – A local cafeteria on Naoshima that focuses on fresh seafood and simple, authentic local cuisine.
Nakabuan (なかぶ庵) [$10-$20] – A long-established sōmen (thin noodle) maker on Shodoshima that also operates a small restaurant, allowing visitors to try rare, freshly-made, raw sōmen noodles.
Teshima Shokudo (てしま食堂) [$10-$20] – A small, simple, and very popular restaurant on Teshima serving local food, including seafood and curry, in a casual setting.
Freiduria [$15-$25] – A unique spot on Teshima, known for its deep-fried local specialties and fresh seafood. (Note: The name may be simple, but the local quality is high).
Shioyu Diner (しおやダイナー) [$15-$30] – Located near Miyanoura Port on Naoshima, this unique spot has a retro-Americana vibe and serves excellent home-cooked diner food alongside Japanese specialties.
MORIKUNI CAFÉ & BAR (森國酒造) [$10-$20] – The café and bar of the only sake brewery on Shodoshima, located in a renovated 70-year-old factory, offering local sake, cakes, and ice cream made from alcohol.
MORIKUNI Bakery (森國ベーカリー) [$5-$15] – Located next to the sake brewery on Shodoshima, this bakery uses rice flour from sake rice to create delicious, handcrafted bread rolls and organic drinks.
HOMEMAKERS [$15-$30] – A café located in a 120-year-old private house on Shodoshima that serves organic, farm-to-table dishes using vegetables, fruits, and herbs grown by the staff.
Garage dining cafe “maimai” [$15-$25] – A stylish café on Naoshima converted from an outdoor garage, famous for its local Naoshima Burger featuring fresh yellowtail (Hamachi).
Cin. na. mon (シナモン) [$15-$30] – A cozy, Western-style restaurant near Miyanoura Port on Naoshima, beloved by locals for traditional set meals and a specialty Seafood Curry.
La Goccia (ラ・ゴッチャ) [$30-$50] – A renowned Italian restaurant on Teshima, utilizing local ingredients and the island’s serene atmosphere for a high-quality, creative dining experience.
Shima Kitchen (島キッチン) [$20-$40] – Located in a renovated traditional house on Teshima, this is a community project serving local island flavors in a modern, art-integrated space.
OLIVAZ [$20-$40] – Located within Shodoshima Olive Park, this restaurant uses the island’s famous olive oil to create unique dishes, including a Spanish-inspired Chilindron rice dish.
Café & dining OASIS [$25-$45] – An Italian diner on Shodoshima that uses the island’s premium olive oil and local vegetables, offering exquisite, authentic Italian dishes.
Creative Toshi (クリエイティブ 俊) [$30-$50] – A small spot on Naoshima (Miyanoura) offering refined, creative Japanese cuisine with a focus on fresh, seasonal local ingredients.
Café Ippuku (カフェ 一福) [$10-$20] – A small, cozy café in the Honmura area of Naoshima, offering light meals and a welcoming atmosphere amidst the Art House Project.
Naoshima Coffee (なおしまコーヒー) [$5-$15] – A specialty coffee shop with a superb ocean view, offering a perfect spot to relax and enjoy the scenery with homemade cheesecake and high-quality coffee.
SPICE CURRY WANDER [$10-$20] – An authentic curry specialty shop on Naoshima that is a must-visit for curry enthusiasts, known for its unique spice blends and daily specials.
Museum Restaurant Issen (一扇) [$80-$150] – Located on the ground floor of the Benesse House Museum (Naoshima), this restaurant offers an exquisite Kaiseki (traditional multi-course) dinner using fresh Setouchi seafood, with stunning views of the art and sea.
Terrace Restaurant [$70-$120] – Located at Benesse House Park (Naoshima), this restaurant offers high-end French cuisine with a focus on fresh, local ingredients, all set within a large, airy space with stunning views of the Inland Sea.
Museum Cafe [$15-$30] – Located on the second floor of the Benesse House Museum (Naoshima), this is a more casual but elegant spot for a light meal or drink with natural light and views of the Seto Inland Sea and outdoor art.
Benesse House Park Lounge [$20-$40] – Located in the basement of Benesse House Park (Naoshima), this beautifully renovated space offers a bar time on weekends, perfect for enjoying original cocktails in a setting designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto.
Perma (パーマ) [$80-$150] – A newer, exclusive dining addition to Naoshima (reservations required) that has quickly become known for its sophisticated, high-end seasonal menu.
Sushi Nakagawa (寿司 中川) [$100-$200] – A highly-rated, authentic sushi experience in Takamatsu (Kagawa Prefecture), offering masterful sushi artistry with the freshest catch from the Seto Inland Sea.
Kisetsuryori Dochiraika (季節料理 どちらいか) [$40-$80] – Located in Takamatsu, this restaurant offers high-quality seasonal Japanese cuisine and Kaiseki meals, focusing on fresh local seafood.
Wakka (旬彩真 和っか) [$50-$100] – A refined Japanese restaurant in Takamatsu known for its exquisite Sashimi, Tempura, and other seasonal specialties.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
Benesse House Park Lounge (Naoshima): Located in the Benesse House Park hotel, this refined bar offers original cocktails in a space recently renovated by renowned artist Hiroshi Sugimoto, providing a peaceful, art-infused atmosphere with views of the Seto Inland Sea.
Cafe-Bar moya (Naoshima): Found within the luxurious Naoshima Ryokan ROKA, this elegant café-bar serves unique, house-made original cocktails and local sake in a tranquil setting next to a contemporary Zen garden.
Commune Hakko Cafe & Bar (Teshima): A unique spot near Karato Port on Teshima, this café and bar specializes in Japanese sake, craft gin, and beverages made with local ingredients and fermented rice seasoning (koji), reflecting the region’s focus on artisanal products.
Luke’s Table (Naoshima): Situated inside My Lodge Naoshima, this restaurant and bar offers Setouchi slow food and a selection of cocktails, wine, and local liquors, perfect for unwinding after a day of art-viewing.
Cafe Salon Naka-Oku (Naoshima): Nestled in the main village area of Naoshima, this casual yet stylish spot functions as a café, bar, and Spanish-style baru, offering a laid-back vibe to enjoy a drink on the island.
BAR TABI (Takamatsu): A popular and highly-rated bar and dining bar in the Kawaramachi area of Takamatsu, offering a relaxed and sophisticated environment with a selection of cocktails.
Tabi Shiki (Takamatsu): Another quality bar and dining bar in Takamatsu’s Kawaramachi district, known for its ambient setting and great for both a full meal or just drinks.
music inn GRANDFATHER’S (Takamatsu): Located near Kawaramachi Station, this classic music-themed bar is known for its stylish space, live music, and diverse drink menu, offering a more lively bar experience.
YUI Gallery & Café+Bar (Teshima): A combination gallery, café, and bar on Teshima, providing a tranquil and artistic setting to enjoy a drink, particularly after visiting nearby art installations.
Benesse House Museum Cafe (Naoshima): Though primarily a cafe on the second floor of the Benesse House Museum, it offers beverages with large windows overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, making it a spectacular spot for a daytime or early evening drink (check for specific bar hours).
Queen’s-Q Naoshima (Naoshima): A cozy, smaller bar on Naoshima offering a serene ambiance and a spot to relax and socialize after the museums close.
Bar SARU (Naoshima): Known for its local beers and cozy atmosphere, this is a friendly spot on Naoshima for travelers looking for a casual drink.
Nihonshu to Otsumami Noraya (Naoshima): While focused on nihonshu (Japanese sake) and small snacks (otsumami), this spot provides an authentic Japanese bar experience on the art island.
SPORTS×FOOD BAR Fiji (Takamatsu): A lively sports bar in the Kawaramachi area of Takamatsu, perfect for catching a game and enjoying a casual drink.
Gigi’s (Takamatsu): An established local bar in Takamatsu, known for its serious approach to cocktails and a more traditional Japanese bar atmosphere.
Nude Night Club (Takamatsu): The premier nightclub in the heart of Takamatsu’s nightlife district (Kawaramachi), celebrated for its modern decor, state-of-the-art sound system, and energetic atmosphere with DJ performances and a vibrant dance floor.
EDDIE CLUB (Takamatsu): A popular, long-standing bar and sports bar near Kataharamachi Station in Takamatsu, which often functions as a late-night venue with darts, a stand-up bar, and a lively atmosphere, open until the early morning.
music inn GRANDFATHER’S (Takamatsu): While a music bar, its focus on live music, late hours, and large capacity near Kawaramachi Station makes it one of the most club-like experiences outside of a dedicated nightclub.
Lagoon / ラグーン (Takamatsu): Located in Takamatsu, this mixed-crowd bar is known for its friendly owner and welcoming atmosphere, making it a reliable spot for a lively social night out.
Jigen / 次元 (Takamatsu): A well-known gay bar in Takamatsu that hosts special event nights, providing a dedicated space for dancing and socializing late into the night.
Fantasy / ファンタジー (Takamatsu): A late-night spot in Takamatsu known for its “all you can drink” offer on weekends, attracting a crowd looking for an extended party experience.
Breakthrough / ブレイクスルー (Takamatsu): Another one of Takamatsu’s established social bars, catering to a mature crowd and known for its friendly, local vibe, often open late.
Tama-chan / たまちゃん (Takamatsu): A classic, intimate local bar in Takamatsu’s nightlife area, providing a late-night refuge for conversation and drinks.
Karaoke Club Raku (Takamatsu): While a karaoke club, these venues in Japan often serve as lively late-night spots with private rooms for singing and drinking with friends. Located centrally in Takamatsu.
Karaoke Kan (Takamatsu): A major karaoke chain with a central location in Takamatsu, offering private, often themed, rooms for late-night entertainment with a full drink service.
Izakaya Dining Ogi-ya (Takamatsu): While technically an izakaya (Japanese pub), many of these establishments in Takamatsu’s downtown area stay open very late, offering food, drinks, and a bustling social atmosphere that rivals a club in terms of energy.
Wan (Takamatsu): A centrally located izakaya chain in Takamatsu, known for its extensive menu and comfortable atmosphere, operating late to cater to the after-hours crowd.