XIANGKHOANG PROVINCE
Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars is a region steeped in ancient mystery and a stark, compelling recent history. It is an essential stop for understanding Laos’s unique past.
This landscape of rolling hills and archaeological wonders offers a profound journey into Southeast Asian history, combining stunning nature with unforgettable cultural sites.
Most Popular Attractions
Plain of Jars Sites:
Plain of Jars – Site 1 (Thong Hai Hin): The largest and most famous site, featuring over 250 massive, ancient stone jars, spread across a peaceful hillside.
Plain of Jars – Site 2 (Hai Hin Lat Khai): A smaller site on a hill with scattered jars, offering scenic views over the surrounding rice paddies and valleys.
Plain of Jars – Site 3 (Hai Hin Phonsavan): A highly concentrated collection of jars set in a tranquil area surrounded by trees, often requiring a short walk through rice fields.
Plain of Jars – Site 16 (Hai Hin Sao Chin): A less-visited site, known for its unique grouping of jars near a small village, offering a more secluded experience.
Plain of Jars – Site 52 (Ban Phakeo): A recently cleared and accessible site with a smaller number of jars, providing insight into the ongoing demining efforts.
Wartime & Conflict History:
UXO Information Centre (MAG Visitor Centre): An essential stop to learn about the devastating unexploded ordnance (UXO) still impacting the province and the ongoing clearance efforts.
Provincial Museum (Xiangkhouang Provincial Museum): A museum detailing the province’s history, focusing heavily on the conflict era and the impact of the Secret War.
Old Town of Muang Khoun: The former royal capital, largely destroyed by bombings, featuring the ruins of ancient pagodas and French colonial structures.
Wat Pia Wat: The ruined ancient temple in Muang Khoun, with a massive headless Buddha statue that survived the heavy bombing.
That Foun Stupa: A 16th-century stupa in Muang Khoun that was heavily damaged but still stands as a testament to the old capital’s splendor.
Cultural & Local Sites:
Phonsavan Market (Talat Thongloun): The central market of Phonsavan, offering a vibrant look at local life, selling everything from fresh produce to textiles and local crafts.
Phonsavan War Memorial: A monument dedicated to the Laotian people who lost their lives during the various conflicts.
Mulberry Silk Farm: A local farm that demonstrates the process of silk weaving, from cultivating the mulberry trees to the final product.
Wat Sibounheuang: A functioning temple in Phonsavan town, offering a contrast to the ruined structures of the old capital.
Hot Springs (Baw Nam Ron): Natural hot springs located outside Phonsavan, a popular spot for locals to relax and bathe.
Nature & Scenery:
Tham Pha Cave: A large limestone cave used as a shelter by locals during the Secret War, now a scenic site in a rural area.
Phou Kout Mountain: A significant strategic location during the war, offering panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Kham District: A rural area northwest of Phonsavan, known for its scenic landscapes and traditional villages.
Jar-making Village: A small, traditional village where the local people are said to have practiced the art of jar-making in ancient times (often a point of interest for local tours).
Nam Ngum River: The river that runs through the province, providing beautiful natural scenery and feeding into the larger Nam Ngum Dam network.
Activities & Experiences
Explore the Plain of Jars (Site 1, 2, & 3): Spend a full day visiting the main sites of the mysterious megalithic jars. Site 1 (Thong Hai Hin) is the largest and most famous, while Site 2 and 3 offer more scenic, rural settings.
Visit the MAG Visitor Centre: Learn about the tragic history of the Secret War in Laos, the devastating impact of unexploded ordnance (UXO), and the ongoing clearance efforts. This is essential context for the region.
Hike to the Xieng Khouang War Memorial: Take a short trek up the hill outside of town to the memorial for beautiful panoramic views over Phonsavan and the surrounding landscape.
Discover Muang Khoun (Old Capital): Take a day trip to the ancient capital of the Phuan Kingdom, which was heavily bombed but still holds the ruins of the Wat Pia Wat, the 16th-century That Foun stupa, and a French-colonial hospital.
Wander Through the Phonsavan Market: Experience the local life and sample regional specialties, including the famous Lao sausage (Sai Oua) and various forest products.
Cycle the Countryside: Rent a bicycle and explore the quiet, paved backroads leading out of Phonsavan, passing through rice paddies and small Hmong and Khmu villages.
Visit a Local Hmong Village: Arrange a visit through a reputable local guide to respectfully learn about the culture and lifestyle of the Hmong minority group, who primarily inhabit the region.
Taste Lao Whiskey and Local Cuisine: Find a local restaurant in the evening to try Lao-Lao (rice whiskey) and authentic Phonsavan dishes, which often feature fresh mountain vegetables.
Find the Spoon Village (Ban Napia): Visit this village known for its residents who melt down scrap metal from war remnants to create spoons, bracelets, and other utensils.
Explore the Phou Keng Jar Site (Site 4): For the adventurous traveler, seek out this less-visited site, which features a cave and jars carved from stone, offering a more remote experience.
Local Tips & Transport
Local Transport (Tuk-Tuk/Songthaew): For travel within Phonsavan town, a tuk-tuk is the quickest and easiest option. For visiting the Plain of Jars sites, you will need to hire a tuk-tuk or a covered pickup truck (Songthaew) for the day, which can be arranged through your guesthouse.
Renting a Scooter/Motorcycle: This is a popular and flexible way to explore the Plain of Jars sites and Muang Khoun independently. Crucially, stick to paved roads and clear, well-worn dirt paths. Never venture off-road due to the severe UXO danger.
Inter-City Buses: Phonsavan is connected to Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and other cities by bus. These trips are long and often on winding mountain roads, so be prepared for a slow and sometimes bumpy journey. Overnight sleeper buses are also available for longer distances.
Phonsavan Airport (XKH): Laos Airlines operates domestic flights to/from Vientiane and Luang Prabang. This is the fastest and most comfortable way to travel to and from the region.
UXO Safety is Paramount: The entire region is heavily contaminated with unexploded ordnance (UXO). Always stay on marked paths, paved roads, and within areas designated as clear. Do not touch any metallic objects you find. The red and white markers indicate areas where clearance is underway or required. Green-and-white signs mark cleared areas.
Dress Respectfully: This is a conservative region. When visiting temples or interacting with local Hmong or Khmu communities, dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees). Always ask permission before taking photos of people, especially in remote villages.
Plain of Jars Site Etiquette: The jar sites are considered historically and culturally significant. Treat them with respect, do not climb on or inside the jars, and do not remove any objects.
Climate & Gear: Phonsavan sits on a plateau, so temperatures, especially in the dry season (November to February), can be surprisingly cool in the mornings and evenings. Pack layers. The rainy season (May to October) makes the roads muddy and the sites potentially slippery.
The Secret War Context: Before visiting, take time at the MAG Visitor Centre to understand the context of the Secret War (1964-1973), which had a devastating impact on this province, resulting in it being one of the most heavily bombed places on earth.
Hidden Gems:
- The Big Bomb (Outside the MAG Centre): A large, spent bomb casing displayed as a chilling but necessary reminder of the area’s history.
- Wat Pia Wat and That Foun in Muang Khoun: These ancient ruins, though heavily damaged, offer a glimpse into the region’s historical importance and architectural past.
Top Restaurants
Khemna Restaurant [$5-$10] – Highly regarded for authentic Lao cuisine, this local spot offers traditional dishes in a simple setting, a great place to try local flavors.
Mrs. La Noodle Shop (ຮ້ານເຝີນາງລາ) [$5-$10] – A classic, local favorite renowned for its authentic and delicious feu (noodle soup, similar to Vietnamese Phở), a perfect breakfast or lunch.
Phonxay Restaurant [$5-$10] – A traditional Lao restaurant favored by locals for its authentic dishes and generous portions, often featuring regional specialties.
Lattanavong Rice Noodle [$5-$10] – A dedicated noodle shop specializing in fresh, handmade rice noodles, a fantastic place for a quick and flavorful meal.
Vilayphat Noodle Shop [$5-$10] – Known for serving up excellent, satisfying bowls of Lao-style noodles, this is a popular stop for a no-frills, authentic lunch.
Top 5 Restaurant (ຮ້ານອາຫານທັອບຟາຍ) [$8-$15] – While offering both Lao and international dishes, it is known among locals and travelers for its good value and tasty authentic Lao menu.
Sabaidee Xiengkhouang [$8-$15] – A restaurant focusing on Lao cuisine, providing a warm and welcoming atmosphere to sample local staples.
Sainamkat Restaurant [$8-$15] – A good local option known for serving up solid Lao dishes, including grilled meats and savory soups.
Phonngam Restaurant [$8-$15] – Offers authentic Laotian cuisine with a focus on traditional recipes and a home-cooked feel.
Lao Restaurant [$8-$15] – A straightforward option that offers a wide range of authentic Lao dishes, perfect for visitors looking to sample multiple local specialties.
Soudchi Restaurant [$8-$15] – Provides a genuine taste of Lao cuisine with traditional preparations and a focus on local ingredients.
ຮ້ານອາຫານ ລາບແຊບຊຽງຂວາງ [$8-$15] – A local restaurant specializing in larb (spicy minced meat salad), a must-try national dish, served fresh with sticky rice.
Lao-Falang [$10-$20] – Though it has a diverse menu, its Lao dishes are well-prepared, and it is a good place to start if looking for a clean, slightly more organized menu for authentic food.
Vansana Restaurant (at Vansana Plain of Jars Hotel) [$15-$25] – While part of a hotel, it offers an extensive a la carte menu of quality Thai and Lao dishes in a comfortable setting, often a reliable choice.
Hmong Sesame Balls (Street Food/Market) [$3-$5] – A popular sweet snack found at the local markets, these deep-fried sesame balls are a delicious traditional treat.
Khao Lam (Sticky Rice in Bamboo Tube) (Street Food/Market) [$3-$5] – A classic Laotian street food dessert where sticky rice is cooked with coconut milk and sugar inside a bamboo tube.
Jeun Khai (Lao Omelette) (Street Food/Market) [$3-$5] – A simple, flavorful Lao-style omelette, often found at market stalls and noodle shops, perfect for a quick bite.
Feu (Rice Noodle Soup) (Street Food/Market) [$5-$10] – Excellent, hearty bowls of noodle soup can be found at numerous unlisted small stalls, especially around the main market and bus station area.
Bánh cuốn bánh xèo (ເຝີພັນ ເເບງເເຊ່ວ ນ.ມາຍ) [$5-$10] – Specializes in Vietnamese-influenced dishes like bánh cuốn (steamed rice rolls) and bánh xèo (savory pancakes), which are very popular in this border region.
Larb & Tam Mak Hoong Stalls (Market) [$5-$10] – The food stalls in the central market (next to the bus terminal) are the best place for fresh, spicy, and authentic Laotian salads and grilled items.
Ping Gai (Laotian Grilled Chicken) Stalls (Market) [$5-$15] – Look for small stalls or outdoor BBQs, especially near the market or main road, offering juicy, lemongrass-marinated grilled chicken served with dipping sauces and sticky rice.
Khao Piak Sen Stalls (Market) [$5-$10] – Many small, local shops serve this thick, chewy rice noodle soup with chicken or pork, a true Lao comfort food.
Bombie’s Restaurant [$8-$15] – Offers authentic Thai and Lao flavors, and despite a slightly more developed setting, it’s known for delightful dishes and friendly service.
Simmaly Restaurant [$5-$10] – Popular with locals for its huge portions of fried rice and noodle dishes at surprisingly low prices, it’s a great value local find.
Sangha Restaurant [$5-$10] – Known for its very fair prices and a menu available in English, offering great dishes like Lao salad and sour and hot soups.
Nhà hàng ăn uống Đức Vỹ / ຮ້ານອາຫານດຶກຫວິ [$8-$15] – Known for serving authentic Vietnamese cuisine, a great place to try a local take on dishes like Phở or spring rolls.
Nhà hàng Hà Nội [$8-$15] – Another excellent option for authentic Vietnamese cuisine, reflecting the strong culinary connection between the two countries.
See You Again Chinese Restaurant [$8-$15] – A local option for Chinese cuisine, which is popular in the region for satisfying and familiar dishes.
Craters Restaurant & Coffee [$10-$20] – While its bomb-shell décor is touristy and history-driven, it is a well-established place in Phonsavan for reliable food, blending Laotian and Western dishes.
Nisha [$10-$20] – Highly recommended for Indian food, offering typical curries, tikka masala, and vegetarian choices with fresh ingredients and large portions.
Sala Phonesavanh Café & Restaurant [$8-$15] – A reliable café and restaurant offering Laotian flavors and a good place for a relaxing break and a meal.
Cranky-T Café and Bar [$8-$15] – An excellent choice for a daily dose of caffeine, sweets, and ice cream, and known for having some of the best coffee in town.
Huay Poungkham [$8-$15] – Located slightly outside the main town in Ban Yon, it offers a more rural and authentic Laotian dining experience.
Bar & Noodle Shop near the Market [$5-$10] – A nameless but highly frequented local spot near the main market entrance known for quickly prepared, hot, and spicy Lao staples.
Grilled Skewers Stalls (Night) [$5-$10] – Look for various stalls that set up in the evening, offering grilled meat or vegetable skewers, a cheap and flavorful dinner option.
Local Bakery (Near Main Road) [$3-$8] – Simple bakeries often serve fresh baguettes (khao jii) and pastries, a lingering French influence and a cheap breakfast option.
Pho Thad Khao (ຮ້ານ ເຝີທາດຂາວ) [$5-$10] – A noodle shop specializing in traditional Feu (Pho), a comforting and popular dish.
Restaurant with No English Name (near the roundabout) [$8-$15] – Many excellent, small, locally-run restaurants on the main roads have menus only in Lao but offer fantastic regional Lao cuisine; follow the crowds.
Hmong Food Stall (Market Area) [$5-$10] – Look for vendors specifically selling Hmong-style dishes, which may include different types of sausage or steamed rice dishes unique to the ethnic group.
Lao Khao Soi Shop [$5-$10] – A dedicated shop for Khao Soi, a distinct noodle soup that is very popular in Northern Laos and the surrounding areas, differing from Thai versions.
Wet Noodles Shop (Khao Piak Sen) [$5-$10] – A specific spot specializing in this particular Lao noodle soup, perfect for a cozy, warm meal.
Jaew Dipping Sauce Stall [$3-$5] – A small vendor specializing in fresh Jaew (Lao chili dipping sauces), often served with fresh vegetables and sticky rice.
Sticky Rice Village Stalls [$5-$10] – On the roads leading to the Plain of Jars sites, a few very small, often unnamed stalls sell excellent sticky rice and simple grilled meats to workers and travelers.
Local Lao BBQ Spot [$10-$20 per person] – Look for places advertising sin dat (Lao BBQ/hotpot). It’s an interactive, fun, and communal way to eat a mix of meats and vegetables.
Khao Jii Paté Cart (Breakfast) [$3-$5] – A street cart or market stall selling the classic Lao baguette sandwich with paté, a cheap and delicious colonial-era fast food.
Small Soup Shop (Near Local School) [$5-$10] – Noodle shops near schools or local government offices often offer cheap, high-quality, and authentic food for the local workers.
Fresh Juice Stand [$3-$5] – While not a restaurant, look for the fresh fruit shake and juice stands for a refreshing, non-meal-based item.
Market Rice Dish Stand (Khao Khua) [$5-$10] – A stall specializing in Lao Fried Rice, or Khao Khua, offering a quick, savory, and satisfying meal.
Crispy Rice Salad Shop (Naem Khao Tod) [$8-$15] – A local place that is known for its excellent Naem Khao Tod (crispy rice salad), a beloved appetizer.
Or Lam Stew Shop [$10-$15] – A specific local restaurant or small establishment that focuses on serving the traditional, rich, and herby Or Lam (Lao stew) from Luang Prabang, a true northern staple.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
First Love Bar: A lively destination in the heart of Phonsavan, known for its welcoming vibe and friendly service. It’s a great gathering spot for both locals and travelers, offering a variety of beverages including local beers and cocktails.
Craters Restaurant & Coffee: Located opposite the UXO-Visitor Information Centre, this establishment is a popular eatery and bar in the neighborhood. It’s a casual spot where you can enjoy local and international drinks, often staying open later than other restaurants.
The King Bar and Restaurant: A must-visit destination in Phonsavan that offers a lively atmosphere and local hospitality. The bar features a delightful selection of beverages, from refreshing cocktails to local beers, often with local music and entertainment in the evenings.
Tree Town Restaurant and Pub (ຮ້ານອາຫານ&ບັນເທີງ ທີທາວ): Known for its vibrant atmosphere, this spot is a blend of a restaurant and a pub in Phonsavan, making it a reliable place for dinner and drinks that extends into the evening.
Cranky-T Café and Bar: A recommended spot in Phonsavan, providing a cozy cafe and bar environment for travelers looking to relax with a drink.
Bombie’s Restaurant: While known for authentic Thai cuisine, this restaurant in Ban Phonsavan also functions as a popular bar in the evening for travelers and locals.
ມາຫຼີ້ນບາຣ໌ (Mã Lēn Bā): A vibrant bar in Phonsavan that offers a unique taste of Lao nightlife and a lively ambiance for a drink.
ນັ່ງຊິວ ບາຣ໌ກູ (Nâng Sīu Bā Kū): A spot in Phonsavan where traditional Laotian culture meets modern nightlife in a vibrant setting, popular for mingling and drinks.
ຮ້ານອາຫານຕົ້ນແປກ (Hān Āhān Tōn Pǣk): This bar in Phonsavan offers a lively cultural atmosphere and is a must-visit for a taste of authentic Lao nightlife and refreshing drinks.
ເທັກ Nana Night Club: Nestled in the heart of Phonsavan, this stands out as the most prominent late-night destination, known for its electric atmosphere. It features a mix of traditional Lao tunes and international hits, ensuring an energetic night of music and dancing.
Talo’90: A lively bar and club-like spot in Ban Pho Hièou (near Phonsavan) that is known for its energetic atmosphere and unique cocktails, attracting a younger crowd.