NORTHERN JORDAN & THE DECAPOLIS
This verdant northern region, often called the “breadbasket” of Jordan, is a treasure trove of Greco-Roman history. It offers visitors spectacular ruins from the ancient Decapolis, lush forests, and imposing medieval castles, presenting a beautiful contrast to the southern desert landscapes.
Why Visit Northern Jordan?
Roman Grandeur: Explore Jerash, one of the most complete and well-preserved Roman cities outside of Italy, and the breathtaking ruins of Umm Qais (Gadara).
Green Highlands: Experience the unexpected greenery of Jordan’s north, with forest reserves and hilltops perfect for hiking and birdwatching, like Ajloun.
Ayyubid History: Witness the strategic brilliance of Saladin’s general at Ajloun Castle, a superb example of Islamic military architecture from the Crusades era.
Smart Travel
Shoulder Season (March-May, September-November): This is the ideal time to visit for sightseeing, with pleasant temperatures for walking the ancient sites and enjoying the green hills. Wildflowers bloom beautifully in spring.
Deep Off-Season (December-February): Winters are cool, often wet, and Amman’s nearby highlands can see snow. You’ll find the lowest prices, but be prepared for chillier, shorter days and potential rain.
Peak Season (June-August): The weather is very hot and dry, making daytime exploration of exposed Roman ruins challenging. Start your sightseeing early in the morning and reserve the afternoons for shade.
Main Areas & Places to Explore
Jerash (Ancient Gerasa)
Known as the “Pompeii of the East,” Jerash is arguably the best-preserved Roman city in the world. Its highlights include the colonnaded Oval Forum, the stunning Temple of Artemis, and the massive South Theatre, which still hosts cultural events. The site is vast and requires several hours to explore thoroughly.
Your Smart Tip: Arrive right when the site opens (usually 8:00 AM) to capture incredible photos without the crowds and to finish your main exploration before the midday sun becomes too intense.
Umm Qais (Ancient Gadara)
Perched high on a hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee, the Jordan Valley, and the Golan Heights, Umm Qais offers incredible panoramic views across four countries. Its ruins include a black basalt theatre, a basilica, and a partially excavated underground mausoleum, making for a dramatic and evocative visit.
Your Smart Tip: Plan to visit Umm Qais in the late afternoon. The sunset views over the valley are legendary, and the cooler temperature makes exploring the exposed site much more comfortable.
Ajloun & Ajloun Castle
This area is a lush contrast to the rest of the country, featuring the Ajloun Forest Reserve. The main attraction is Qala’at al-Rabad (Ajloun Castle), a 12th-century fortress built by Saladin’s nephew to defend against Crusader forces. Its hilltop location offers magnificent views.
Your Smart Tip: After exploring the castle, spend a few hours at the nearby Ajloun Forest Reserve. It’s a wonderful place for a short hike to appreciate the region’s unique Mediterranean-style forests.
Handy Tips
Weather & Climate
The Northern Highlands have a typical Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Rain is most common from November to March, and you may even encounter light snow in the highest elevations around Amman and Ajloun. Summers are very hot, with high temperatures in the capital, Amman, often reaching 30ºC to 35ºC (86ºF to 95ºF).
Local Customs And Etiquette
Dress Code: While more liberal than some regions, Northern Jordan is relatively conservative. When visiting religious sites, women should cover their hair, shoulders, and knees. Modest attire is respectful in public spaces.
Hospitality: Jordanians are famous for their warmth. Accepting offers of Bedouin tea is a gesture of respect, even if you can only take a few sips.
The Left Hand: It is considered impolite to eat, pass objects, or shake hands with your left hand, as it is traditionally reserved for personal hygiene.
Budgeting For Your Trip
Accommodation (Per Night): Hostels ($15–$30), mid-range hotels ($60–$100), luxury ($120+).
Food (Per Person): Street food/Falafel sandwich ($1–$3), fixed-price lunch menu ($8–$15), dinner at a mid-range restaurant ($15–$30).
Transport: Local bus (very cheap), inter-city JETT bus ($5–$20), taxi (negotiated fare, or use apps like Careem/Uber).
Activities: Jordan Pass (highly recommended for saving on visa and site entry fees), site entrance (e.g., Jerash $\approx \$17$), cooking classes ($35+).
Daily Budget:
- Budget: $50–$80 (hostels, street food, public transport).
- Mid-range: $90–$150 (hotels, restaurants, attractions).
- Luxury: $180+ (boutique hotels, fine dining, private drivers).
Getting Around
By Car: A car offers the most flexibility for exploring the ruins of the Decapolis and the natural reserves. The roads between major sites are generally well-maintained.
By Bus: The JETT bus company offers reliable, comfortable transport between major cities like Amman and Irbid. Local minibusses are cheap but slow and unpredictable.
By Taxi/Ride-Sharing: Taxis are plentiful in Amman. Ride-sharing apps (Careem/Uber) are widely used in the capital and offer set, fair prices.
Must-Try Food
Mansaf: (Man-saf) Jordan’s national dish. Lamb cooked in a sauce of fermented, dried yogurt (jameed), served over rice and shrak (flatbread), and often garnished with pine nuts.
Falafel: Deep-fried balls of spiced, ground chickpeas. Jordanian falafel is considered some of the best in the Middle East.
Hummus: A creamy dip of mashed chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, and garlic.
Kofta (Shish Kebab): Grilled minced lamb or beef, often mixed with herbs and spices.
Galayet Bandora: A simple but delicious stew of tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil, often served with bread.
Warak Enab & Kousa Mahshi: Stuffed grape leaves (warak enab) and stuffed zucchini (kousa mahshi) with rice and minced lamb.
Zarb: (Zarb) A traditional Bedouin feast of meat and vegetables cooked in a subterranean oven.
Fattoush: A refreshing Lebanese bread salad with mixed greens, radishes, tomatoes, and pieces of toasted or fried flatbread.
Mutabal: (Moo-ta-bal) A creamy eggplant dip, often confused with baba ghanoush, but mutabal includes tahini and yogurt.
Knafeh: (K-na-feh) The quintessential Arabic dessert. A sweet pastry made with thin noodle-like dough, layered with cheese, and soaked in a sweet, rose-water-scented syrup.
Must-Try Drinks
Arak: (Ah-rak) A traditional alcoholic spirit made from grapes and aniseed. It is clear but turns milky white when water and ice are added. It is usually served with mezze (appetizers).
Jordanian Wines & Beer: While a conservative country, wine and local beer (like Petra or Carakale) are produced and available in hotels and licensed restaurants/shops.
Bedouin Tea (Shay): Strong black tea, heavily sweetened, often flavored with sage (maramiyeh) or mint (na’na). A symbol of Jordanian hospitality.
Arabic Coffee (Qahwa): (Qah-wa) Strong, bitter coffee flavored with cardamom, often served in small cups. Traditionally reserved for welcoming guests and formal occasions.
Limonana: (Lee-moh-na-na) A wonderfully refreshing blend of fresh lemon juice, mint, sugar, and crushed ice. Perfect for a hot day.
Fresh Juices: Freshly squeezed juices from seasonal fruits like oranges, pomegranates, or cane sugar.