KINABATANGAN RIVER & SANDAKAN
The Kinabatangan River is the pulsating vein of Sabah, a biodiversity hotspot and Malaysia’s second-longest river. It is the definitive place to witness Borneo’s extraordinary wildlife in its natural setting.
This region is the gateway to some of the world’s most spectacular nature experiences, combining thrilling river safaris with the poignant conservation stories of Sandakan.
Most Popular Attractions
Kinabatangan River & Wildlife Sanctuaries:
Kinabatangan River Wildlife Cruises: The primary activity, offering morning, afternoon, and night safaris to spot wildlife along the riverbanks.
Gomantong Caves: Massive limestone caves famous for their swiftlets’ nests, a major source for the delicacy bird’s nest soup.
Lower Kinabatangan Segama Wetlands: A vast area of protected wetlands, crucial habitat for migratory birds and estuarine crocodiles.
Kelebuan Forest Reserve: An area known for its high density of primates, including proboscis monkeys and macaques.
Pitas Lake (Oxbow Lake): A tranquil former river bend, excellent for spotting diverse birdlife and smaller primates by traditional boat.
Village Walks/Cultural Experience: Opportunities to visit local communities and learn about their traditional way of life along the river.
Jungle Trekking: Guided walks through the secondary jungle to search for smaller mammals, insects, and unique flora.
Night River Cruise: A chance to spot nocturnal wildlife, including civets, sleeping birds, and slow loris.
Bilit: A central area along the river, known for several popular eco-lodges and wildlife viewing opportunities.
Sukau: A more remote upstream village, offering excellent access to the core wildlife zones.
Sandakan Conservation & Nature Centers:
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre: The most famous attraction, dedicated to rescuing, rehabilitating, and releasing orphaned orangutans back into the wild.
Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC): Located adjacent to Sepilok, this center rescues and rehabilitates the world’s smallest bear species.
Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary: A dedicated sanctuary offering close-up views of the unique proboscis monkey in their mangrove habitat.
Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC): A nature education center with canopy walkways, botanical gardens, and excellent birdwatching trails.
Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve: The protected forest surrounding the rehabilitation centers, housing a rich ecosystem.
Sandakan Memorial Park: A poignant site commemorating the Australian and British prisoners of war who suffered during the Sandakan Death Marches in WWII.
Sandakan City Core & Surrounding Areas:
Sandakan Central Market: A bustling hub to experience local life and sample fresh produce, particularly seafood.
St. Michael’s and All Angels Church: One of the few stone structures in Sabah, a historic church with unique architecture.
Agnes Keith House: The beautifully restored colonial residence of American author Agnes Keith, offering insight into colonial-era life.
Puuh Jih Shih Temple: A large, colorful Chinese Buddhist temple offering panoramic views of Sandakan Bay.
Sam Sing Kung Temple: One of the oldest temples in Sandakan, featuring intricate carvings and traditional Chinese architecture.
The Sandakan Heritage Trail: A self-guided route connecting key historical and cultural sites within the city center.
Activities & Experiences
Go on a River Safari (Kinabatangan): Take multiple early morning and late afternoon boat cruises along the Kinabatangan River to spot endemic species like the Proboscis Monkey, Orangutan, and various hornbills.
Visit the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre: Witness the feeding and rehabilitation of rescued orphaned and injured Orangutans from the surrounding rainforest.
Explore the Gomantong Caves: Join a tour to witness the incredible spectacle of Swiftlets and bats, and learn about the controversial but lucrative local delicacy of edible bird’s nests.
Night Jungle Walk (Kinabatangan): Venture into the rainforest after dark with a local guide to look for nocturnal wildlife such as civets, flying squirrels, and various insect species.
Visit the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC): See the world’s smallest bear species and learn about the efforts to rescue and rehabilitate them.
Walk the Sandakan Heritage Trail: Follow a self-guided route through Sandakan town visiting historical sites like the St. Michael’s and All Angels Church and the Agnes Keith House.
Take a Boat Trip to Turtle Island Park (Pulau Selingan): Witness sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs and participate in releasing hatchlings into the sea (requires overnight stay and permit).
Spot Pygmy Elephants: Go on guided treks or specific river safaris on the Kinabatangan, the only place in the world where these small, gentle giants can be found in the wild.
Visit the Sandakan Memorial Park: Pay respects and learn about the tragic history of the Sandakan Death Marches during World War II at this poignant memorial site.
Go Birdwatching: The Kinabatangan area is a world-class birding destination. Hire a local guide to help you spot all eight species of Bornean hornbill and other colourful tropical birds.
Experience a Village Homestay: Stay with a local family in a village along the river to gain insight into the traditional lifestyle of the Orang Sungai (River People).
Local Tips & Transport
Connecting to the Area:
Flights: Sandakan Airport (SDK) is the main entry point, with domestic flights connecting from Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu.
Transfers: Most jungle lodges and homestays along the Kinabatangan River organize private transfers to and from Sandakan Airport or the city center, which is the most reliable way to travel.
Bus/Taxi: Public transport is limited. A taxi from Sandakan to the main Kinabatangan hub of Sukau can take 2-3 hours.
In the Area:
Kinabatangan River: Travel is almost exclusively done by longboat for river safaris and transfers between lodges. Walking is confined to marked jungle trails around your accommodation.
Sandakan Town: The city center is walkable, especially for the Heritage Trail. Taxis or ride-sharing services are available for longer distances like trips to Sepilok.
Respecting Wildlife and Environment:
Keep Your Distance: When viewing wildlife, especially Orangutans and Proboscis Monkeys, maintain a respectful distance. Never feed the animals.
Minimize Waste: The environment is fragile. Please carry out all your rubbish and use reusable water bottles.
Essential Gear: Pack light, breathable clothing, good insect repellent (high DEET is advisable), a rain poncho, a torch/headlamp, and binoculars—they are essential for viewing distant wildlife.
Cultural Sensitivities:
Modesty: While generally relaxed, dress modestly, especially when visiting local villages or mosques. Shoulders and knees covered is respectful.
Language: Bahasa Malaysia is the national language, but English is widely spoken in the tourism and city areas. Learning a few basic phrases like Terima kasih (Thank you) will be appreciated.
“Jungle Time”: Things often move at a slower, more relaxed pace here. Be patient and embrace the “no rush” attitude, particularly with transfers and boat schedules.
Hidden Gems & Best Practices:
Best Time for Wildlife: The dry season (March to October) offers the easiest viewing conditions, but Kinabatangan is a year-round destination. Rain can increase leech activity—wear leech socks or tuck your pants into your socks.
Food Tip (Seafood): Sandakan is famous for its incredibly fresh and cheap seafood. Be sure to try a meal at one of the floating seafood restaurants near the city centre.
Avoid Perfumes: Strong scents can attract unwanted insects during jungle walks and may interfere with guides’ efforts to spot wildlife. Stick to unscented toiletries.
Check the Tide: When planning to visit the Gomantong Caves, check the time of day when the mass exodus of bats occurs, which is usually around dusk—it is an incredible sight.
Top Restaurants
Kedai Makan Kong Teck [$3-$7] – A renowned spot famous for its unique fish noodles made from fresh fish paste, served with various fish cakes and balls in different soup bases like clear or curry.
Sim Sim Water Village (Stall No. 84) [$3-$7] – A popular, no-frills stall in the water village specializing in homemade noodles and delicious, generously filled century egg dumplings.
Bak Seng Lau [$3-$7] – A local favorite well-known for its flavorful soup and customizable fish noodles, allowing customers to choose from over 20 ingredients including fish head, fish fillets, and various pork balls.
Syn Lok Bah Kut Teh [$5-$10] – A respected eatery for its local-style Bak Kut Teh, a milder and less peppery herbal pork bone soup compared to other Malaysian regions.
Kedai Kopi Tokyo [$3-$7] – A traditional kopitiam in the city center known for authentic Malaysian breakfast and lunch dishes, frequented by locals for its robust flavors.
San Da Gen Kopitiam [$3-$7] – A heritage café that is a local go-to spot for the famous Sandakan UFO Tarts (a pastry with sponge cake, custard, and caramel) and other classic snacks and coffee.
Kedai Kopi Baru Bar Lok Yuen [$3-$7] – An old-school institution famous for its traditional Chinese pastries and buns, with a history of over 50 years.
Kedai Kopi Wing Hup Lee [$3-$7] – Highly regarded for its delicious, thin-crust egg tarts that often sell out quickly, as well as its prawn noodles and curry laksa.
H84 Kon Lo Mee [$3-$7] – A very famous stall at Jetty 7 in Kampung Buli Sim Sim known for its “fried pork noodles” or Kon Lou Mee, featuring crispy deep-fried pork slices paired with chewy egg noodles.
Kedai Yap Syn Kee [$2-$5] – A simple sundry shop famous for its old-time favorite cincau (grass jelly) drink, a refreshing local beverage perfect for a hot day.
Restoran Big Man Corner [$5-$10] – A local spot famous for its Nasi Kuning (turmeric yellow rice) which is a local staple, often served with a choice of fried chicken or fish and sambal.
Kedai Kopi Pao Heng [$5-$10] – A well-regarded location for its Bak Kut Teh, offering a comforting and traditional herbal soup that is a local favorite.
Nam Chai Seafood Bak Kut Teh [$7-$12] – A popular joint that offers a unique seafood twist on the traditional Bak Kut Teh, using fresh prawns and clams to enrich the broth.
Siang Siang Pan Mian Restaurant 香香板面 [$3-$7] – Known among the Chinese community for its authentic Pan Mian (hand-pulled noodles), a hearty and comforting noodle soup or dry noodle dish.
Sim Sim Bridge No. 7 (Kedai Kopi Lee Hao Fook) [$3-$7] – Once a water village staple, now located near Jalan Utara, it remains a favorite for its springy noodles, dim sums, and curry laksa.
Alice’s [$3-$7] – A popular place for an authentic Halal Chinese breakfast, attracting a diverse local crowd early in the morning.
Sim Sim Seafood Restaurant (No. 88) [Market Price] – Located in the Sim Sim Water Village, this is a quintessential seaside dining experience famous for its fresh, high-quality seafood cooked to order, including their renowned salted fish dishes.
Ocean King Seafood Restaurant [Market Price] – A highly popular and well-known restaurant in the Bandar Utama area, famous for its large servings of fresh seafood, particularly shellfish dishes and traditional Chinese preparations.
Sandokan Seafood Restaurant [Market Price] – Known for its fresh catch, with signature dishes often including grilled octopus and hearty seafood stews, offering an authentic local seafood experience.
Empire Seafood Restaurant [Market Price] – A large establishment known for its variety of cooking styles, including the local favorite Sea Prawn Crispy Noodles, with a thick, eggy sauce.
H90 Sim Sim Seafood Restaurant [Market Price] – Another excellent choice in the Sim Sim Water Village, popular with locals for dishes like Large Clam in Ginger and Sotong Goreng Tepung (deep-fried squid).
Restaurant Kak Jue [Market Price] – A Halal seafood restaurant known for offering fresh flavors and warm hospitality, popular among the local Malay community for authentic seafood dishes.
Waterfront Seafood Restaurant Bar & Grill [Market Price] – Offers a cozy dining experience with a view, specializing in seafood grill and often recommended for romantic sunset dinners.
Kenalanmu Seafood Restaurant [Market Price] – A reliable local choice for a wide variety of fresh seafood, known for dishes like Crab Masak Chili and Deep Fried Fish.
D’Sandakan Seafood Paradise [Market Price] – A restaurant in the Taman Fajar Perdana area known for its fresh fish and creative dishes like Ikan Bakar Lemon Herbs and Crab Carbonara.
1088 Seafood Restaurant [Market Price] – Located in Bandar Utama, this spot is known for a good variety of Chinese-style seafood dishes, including their popular 3 Style Prawns and Claypot Fish Head.
Ikan Bakar Mama Resepi [$5-$15] – A specialized stall or restaurant that focuses on Ikan Bakar (grilled fish), offering various types of fresh fish and seafood grilled over charcoal and served with spicy sambal.
The English Tea House & Restaurant [$15-$30] – Located atop the hill near the Agnes Keith House, this charming colonial-style restaurant offers traditional English meals and afternoon tea with stunning views of the harbor and city.
Harbour Bistro Lodge [$10-$20] – Offers a mix of Southeast Asian and possibly more upscale seafood options in a spacious setting, with a more modern feel than traditional kopitiams.
Rusteak Grill Bistronomy & Cafe [$10-$20] – A cafe/bistronomy offering modern dishes, focusing on grilled items and a cozy dining atmosphere.
Supreme Multi Cuisine Restaurant [$10-$20] – Offers a blend of Asian flavors, making it a good spot for variety when dining with a group.
Nest Restaurant (Sepilok) [$8-$15] – Located near the Sepilok area, this family-friendly restaurant serves a mix of delicious local and international cuisine in a welcoming, nature-surrounded atmosphere.
Plantation Cafe [$8-$15] – A popular cafe that serves authentic Malaysian dishes, often with a focus on local ingredients and traditional preparation methods.
Little Nanyang [$8-$15] – Offers authentic Malaysian flavors in a modern dining setting, blending tradition with contemporary tastes.
My Restaurant [$8-$15] – Known for serving authentic Malaysian cuisine, a reliable spot for traditional dishes.
Modern Family Restaurant [$8-$15] – Offers traditional Malaysian flavors in a comfortable, family-friendly environment.
Sanns Cafe [$8-$15] – A cafe offering authentic Malaysian flavors, a great choice for local favorites and quick meals.
The Lake Bistro (Sepilok) [$10-$20] – Located in Sepilok, this bistro offers great views and a menu featuring a variety of dishes, popular for its location amidst lush nature.
Sandakan Central Market (3rd Floor Stalls) [$3-$10] – A bustling market where the upper floors offer cooked Halal and Chinese food stalls. A great place to buy fresh seafood from the wet market below and have a stall cook it for you for a small fee. Stall No. 11 is famous for this service.
Kim Fung Night Market (Pasar Kim Fung) [$2-$7] – A popular street food heaven after sundown, famous for affordable eats like grilled chicken wings, Tom Yam Meehoon, and the iconic UFO Tarts and Pisang Goreng Cheese (banana fritters with cheese topping).
Pasar Umum (Central Market) – Stall No. 33 [$3-$7] – This specific stall on the 3rd floor (facing the sea) is highly recommended by locals for its seafood noodles.
Pasar Umum (Central Market) – Original Kueh Teow Stall [$3-$7] – Another popular stall on the 3rd floor (near stall no. 33) famous for its kueh teow (flat rice noodles) with deep-fried pork.
Sim Sim Water Village Street Stalls [$3-$7] – Beyond the main restaurants, the water village has smaller street stalls selling budget-friendly items like seafood on skewers, fried noodles, and coconut drinks.
Kedai Makan Ngee Lee (Coconut Pudding) [$2-$5] – While a full restaurant, it’s particularly famous for its delightful, freshly made coconut pudding served in a young coconut.
Bun Hock Bakery [$2-$5] – Known as a prime spot to buy the Sandakan famous UFO Tarts.
Kedai Roti Gold Crown 金冠麵包中西餅店 [$2-$5] – An established bakery offering good selections of buns and pastries, with local favorites like fish balls and pork skin soup for lunch.
Stesen Ikan Bakar Legend [$5-$15] – A specialized Ikan Bakar spot offering various grilled seafood and fish in a lively, local-favorite setting.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
Sandakan Central Market Eateries: Found near the waterfront in Sandakan town, these stalls transform in the evening, offering an authentic local experience with cheap beer and simple seafood dishes. It’s more of a dining/socializing spot than a “bar.”
The Pavilion Lounge (Four Points by Sheraton): Located inside the largest international hotel in Sandakan, this lounge offers a comfortable, air-conditioned environment with a full bar service, making it the closest thing to a classic cocktail bar in the area.
B&B Bar: A straightforward, no-frills local bar in the Sandakan town center, popular with both locals and expats for a casual beer and some pool.
Balin Roof Garden Bar (Sandakan): Found on the rooftop of a boutique hotel in Sandakan, this spot offers a pleasant open-air ambiance and is one of the few places with a view of the bay.
MY Nature Resort Restaurant & Bar: Situated near Sepilok, this spot offers a quiet, relaxed setting popular with tourists staying in the area. The “bar” is part of the restaurant and is ideal for a quiet after-dinner drink.
English Tea House and Restaurant (Sandakan): While not a cocktail bar, this historic spot on a hill offers stunning panoramic views of Sandakan Bay. It’s a wonderful place for an early evening glass of wine or a beer in a colonial setting.
Paddy’s Pub (Sandakan): A small, casual pub in Sandakan known for being one of the few places where locals gather to watch sports over a few rounds of beer.
Leisure Village Seafood Restaurant & Bar: Found on the outskirts of Sandakan, this popular spot combines fresh seafood dining with an open-air bar area, ideal for a relaxed evening.
Agnes Keith House Café: Close to the historic town center of Sandakan, the café serves as a quiet spot in the evening for coffee, a light bite, and sometimes has simple beer offerings.
Tamu Tamu Restaurant & Bar (Sepilok B&B): A relaxed and rustic bar/restaurant near the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, serving simple drinks to travelers enjoying the jungle’s tranquility.
Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp Evening Area (Kinabatangan River): This is the quintessential evening experience on the river. While they don’t serve alcohol, the evenings are spent socializing, sharing stories, and relaxing by the river under the stars—the region’s primary form of “nightlife.”
Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge Common Area: Another popular lodge along the river where guests gather on the open deck after the day’s safaris, offering simple drinks and sharing their wildlife sightings.
Local Coffee Shops (Kopi Tiam) (Sandakan): Numerous simple local coffee shops throughout Sandakan’s residential areas often serve local beer alongside food in the evenings.
Club D’Vouge (Sandakan): Located in Sandakan town, this is one of the few places that operates as a dedicated, albeit simple, local-style nightclub, featuring a small dance floor and local DJs playing commercial hits.
KBOX Karaoke (Sandakan): A popular form of local entertainment, this large karaoke center in Sandakan offers private rooms for late-night singing and drinking.
Music Lounge (Sandakan): A small, dimly lit lounge in Sandakan that sometimes hosts live local bands or acoustic performers, offering a different vibe from a typical club.
The Pub (Sandakan): Despite the generic name, this place in Sandakan is known for being slightly livelier than other bars, often playing loud music and attracting a younger local crowd.
New King Karaoke: Located slightly outside the main town area, this is another local favorite for late-night singing and has a full bar setup.
Karisma Club (Sandakan): A simple, older-style club in Sandakan known for its local crowd, loud music, and a chance to experience authentic local nightlife.
Ming Garden Lounge (Sandakan): Located within a local hotel, this lounge is used for small events and sometimes converts into a mini-club atmosphere on weekends with a DJ.
Night Market Food Court (Sandakan): This vibrant, busy location in Sandakan, although a food court, serves as a massive late-night gathering spot with a highly social, “club-like” atmosphere.
Pool Bar at Sandakan Hotel: Many mid-range local hotels in Sandakan have a simple poolside or lobby bar that stays open late, offering a quiet place for a nightcap.
Wisma Sandakan F&B Outlets: The multi-story Wisma Sandakan complex has various small, independent food and beverage outlets, some of which function as late-night watering holes or music venues on the weekend.
OneTwoThree Club: A recently opened, small establishment in Sandakan catering to a slightly more modern local crowd, sometimes hosting themed nights.
Ocean Blues: Located near the waterfront, this spot in Sandakan is known for its late hours and slightly more upscale (by local standards) feel, playing a mix of international and local music.