KANAZAWA & HOKURIKU COAST

Kanazawa is the cultural jewel of the Sea of Japan coast, preserving its Edo-period charm and samurai heritage, having escaped WWII damage. It is defined by meticulous gardens, historic geisha districts, and is the world capital of gold leaf production.

The surrounding Hokuriku Coast (Ishikawa, Toyama, and Fukui) offers a rugged, stunning landscape. The region boasts dramatic cliffs, the famous Snow Walls of the Northern Alps, world-class museums, and some of Japan’s most revered hot spring towns.

Kanazawa’s Cultural Heart (Edo-Period History & Gardens):

  • Kenrokuen Garden: Considered one of Japan’s three most beautiful landscape gardens, featuring a perfect balance of six essential attributes: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water, and panorama.

  • Kanazawa Castle Park: The magnificent, partially reconstructed castle of the powerful Maeda Clan, featuring impressive gates, turrets, and stone walls.

  • Higashi Chaya District: Kanazawa’s largest and most atmospheric geisha district, with beautifully preserved traditional wooden teahouses (chaya).

  • Nagamachi Samurai District: A stunningly preserved historic neighborhood with narrow lanes, earthen walls, and canals, which was once home to the city’s samurai class.

  • Nomura Samurai House: A beautifully restored high-ranking samurai residence in Nagamachi, complete with a meticulous, serene private garden and koi pond.

  • Myoryu-ji Temple (Ninja Temple): A fascinating temple that was secretly used as a military outpost, featuring hidden tunnels, trap doors, secret rooms, and complex staircases.

  • Shima Teahouse: A teahouse in the Higashi Chaya District that is open to the public, offering a glimpse into the sophisticated world of geisha entertainment.

  • Oyama Shrine: A unique shrine dedicated to the Maeda Clan founder, famous for its distinctive Shin-mon Gate that incorporates Western stained-glass windows.

  • Kazuemachi Chaya-Gai District: A smaller, quieter geisha district nestled along the Asano River, offering a charming, more intimate atmosphere.

  • Seisonkaku Villa: A beautiful and luxurious villa located next to Kenrokuen Garden, built for the wife of the 13th Maeda lord, showcasing traditional Kaga craftsmanship.

Kanazawa’s Modern & Food Scene:

  • Omicho Fish Market: Known as “Kanazawa’s Kitchen,” this bustling indoor market features over 200 stalls selling fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan, local produce, and kaisen-don (sashimi bowls).

  • 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa: An architectural marvel famous for its innovative, circular design and permanent, participatory installations, including Leandro Erlich’s The Swimming Pool.

  • D.T. Suzuki Museum: A contemplative museum dedicated to the life and philosophy of the renowned Zen Buddhist scholar, featuring minimalist architecture and serene water gardens.

  • Kanazawa Station (Tsuzumi-mon Gate & Motenashi Dome): An iconic modern gateway to the city, recognized for its massive glass dome and the spectacular wooden tsuzumi (hand drum) gate.

  • Gold Leaf Application Experience: Hands-on workshops where visitors can apply Kanazawa’s world-famous kinpaku (gold leaf) to crafts or even try gold-flaked ice cream.

Hokuriku Region & Natural Wonders:

  • Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route: A spectacular mountain sightseeing route, nicknamed the “Roof of Japan,” famous for its stunning spring Snow Walls and traversing the Northern Alps via various unique public transport.

  • Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum: Located in a region rich with fossil finds, this is one of the world’s leading dinosaur museums, housing an impressive collection of skeletons, fossils, and life-size models.

  • Tojinbo Cliffs: A dramatic stretch of rugged coastline in Fukui, known for its unique columnar jointing basalt cliffs towering over the Sea of Japan.

  • Shirakawa-go and Gokayama: UNESCO World Heritage sites known for their distinctive steep-roofed gassho-zukuri farmhouses, designed to withstand heavy winter snowfalls.

  • Kurobe Gorge Railway: A scenic train ride through one of Japan’s deepest ravines in Toyama Prefecture, offering breathtaking views of deep forests, bridges, and hot springs like Unazuki Onsen.

  • Kaga Onsen: A historic group of four renowned hot spring towns (Awazu, Yamashiro, Yamanaka, and Katayamazu) in Ishikawa, known for their traditional bathhouses and serene settings.

  • Noto Peninsula: A large, rural peninsula in Ishikawa offering rugged coastlines, scenic terraced rice paddies (Shiroyone Senmaida), and the popular Wakura Onsen resort.

  • Eiheiji Temple: A major Zen Buddhist monastery in Fukui, established in 1244, offering a tranquil experience amidst vast cedar forests.

  • Chirihama Nagisa Driveway: A unique 8-kilometer stretch of hard-packed sand on the coast of Ishikawa where you can drive your car directly on the beach.

Stroll through Kenrokuen Garden: Wander through one of Japan’s “Three Great Gardens.” Be sure to look for the famous Kotoji-tōrō (two-legged stone lantern) and, in winter, the unique yukitsuri (rope supports protecting pine branches from snow).

Explore the Higashi Chaya District: Walk the beautiful, preserved streets of Kanazawa’s largest geisha district. Visit one of the historic teahouses (chaya) open to the public, like Shima or Kaikaro, for a glimpse into a bygone era.

Visit the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art: Experience the museum’s sleek, circular architecture and its famous, often interactive, installations, most notably Leandro Erlich’s “The Swimming Pool.”

Delve into Samurai History at Nagamachi: Explore this historic samurai district, a quiet neighborhood with earthen walls and canals. Visit the fully restored Nomura Samurai House to see a traditional residence and its exquisite garden.

Go to Omicho Market for a Seafood Breakfast: Immerse yourself in the “kitchen of Kanazawa.” Sample local delicacies, including incredibly fresh sushi, sashimi, or kaisendon (seafood bowl) caught in the nearby Sea of Japan.

Take a Gold Leaf Workshop: Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan’s gold leaf (kinpaku). Try a hands-on experience decorating chopsticks, pottery, or a lacquer box with the city’s signature craft.

Discover the Secrets of Myoryuji Temple (“Ninja Temple”): Explore this fascinating temple with its secret tunnels, hidden staircases, and traps, designed by the Maeda Clan for defense (booking ahead is highly recommended).

Walk the Chirihama Nagisa Driveway (Noto Peninsula): Drive your car directly along the shore of this unique, hard-sand beach on the nearby Noto Peninsula—one of the only places in Japan where you can do this.

Visit a Traditional Sake Brewery in Toyama: Take a day trip to Toyama and explore a local sake brewery (kura), such as Masuda (Masuizumi), to learn about the brewing process and sample the regional rice wine.

Find Zen at Eiheiji Temple (Fukui): Journey south to Fukui Prefecture to experience the vast, solemn, and beautiful grounds of one of Japan’s most important Soto Zen Buddhist temples.

Soak in an Onsen in Kaga: Relax and rejuvenate in one of the four traditional hot spring towns that make up Kaga Onsen, such as Yamashiro or Yamanaka.

Trek the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route (Toyama): (Seasonal) Travel the famed “Rooftop of Japan,” a spectacular mountain route through the Northern Japan Alps using six different forms of transport, famous for its massive snow walls in the spring.

Kanazawa City Buses are Key: Kanazawa has no subway. The most convenient way to get around the compact city center is the Kanazawa Loop Bus (Right Loop and Left Loop) or the Kenrokuen Shuttle.

  • Loop Bus: Runs from Kanazawa Station to all main sights (Kenrokuen, Samurai District, Teahouse Districts) every 15-20 minutes.
  • One-Day Pass: Consider the Hokutetsu One Day Pass (approx. ¥800) for unlimited rides on the Loop Bus and other local buses in the central zone.

Walking is Efficient: Many of Kanazawa’s main attractions are clustered around Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden, allowing for easy and enjoyable walking between districts like Nagamachi and the 21st Century Museum.

Bikes for the City: The public bike-sharing service, Machi-Nori, is an excellent way to cover ground. The bikes are electric-assisted, making it easy to traverse the city’s gentle hills.

For the Coast, Consider a Car: To fully explore the wider Hokuriku Coast, including the rugged Noto Peninsula, the hot spring towns of Kaga Onsen, or the Chirihama Driveway, a rental car is highly recommended as public transport can be sparse.

Shinkansen for Access: The Hokuriku Shinkansen connects Kanazawa to Tokyo in about 2.5 hours, making it an easy and efficient entry/exit point for the region.

Embrace the Gold: Kanazawa’s name is said to mean “marsh of gold.” The city’s history with gold leaf is everywhere—from decorating temples and lacquerware to, famously, being sprinkled on soft-serve ice cream and used in local crafts.

Feast on Sea of Japan Seafood: The Hokuriku coast is celebrated for its incredibly fresh seafood, often superior to what is available in Tokyo. Key seasonal delicacies include Winter Snow Crab (Kani), sweet shrimp (Amaebi), and yellowtail (Buri).

The Machiya Aesthetic: The traditional wooden townhouses (machiya) of the teahouse and samurai districts are an essential part of the atmosphere. Notice the narrow street-fronts that often conceal surprisingly deep interiors and private gardens.

Winter Travel is Unique: Winter in Hokuriku brings heavy snow. This creates the stunning snowy landscape of Kenrokuen Garden, with its yukitsuri rope cones, but be prepared for cold weather and potential road closures, especially on the Noto Peninsula.

Dining Etiquette: Japanese culture values respect and quiet conversation. Tipping is not customary. When dining at a sushi restaurant, it’s polite to use your hands for eating sushi and not to dip the rice side of the piece into the soy sauce.

Hidden Gems:

  • Kanazawa Station’s Tsuzumi-mon: This impressive wooden gate at the East Exit is modeled after a tsuzumi (traditional Japanese drum) and is a stunning example of modern architecture blending with tradition.
  • Utasu Shrine: A small, picturesque shrine near the Higashi Chaya district, famous for its vibrant red torii gates that contrast beautifully with the old streets.
  • The Kutani-yaki Pottery Region: A day trip to this area offers a chance to see workshops producing the region’s famous, vividly colored porcelain.
  • D.T. Suzuki Museum: A museum dedicated to the famous Buddhist scholar. The architecture and its contemplative water mirror garden provide an oasis of calm for quiet reflection.

Omicho Market [Varies, $10-$50] – While a busy market, it is still the authentic heart of Kanazawa’s food scene. Visit early for the freshest kaisendon (seafood rice bowls) or street snacks like grilled oysters and sea urchin.

Kanazawa Oden Ippukuya [$15-$30] – A beloved, local oden (one-pot stew) specialist. Kanazawa is famous for its unique style of oden, which features rare ingredients like kannoko (fish egg) and seasonal seafood simmered in a light, savory broth.

Grill Otsuka [$15-$25] – A classic, highly-recommended spot for a Kanazawa specialty: Hanton Rice. This local comfort food is an omelet over rice, topped with fried seafood (often shrimp), and finished with a mix of ketchup and tartar sauce.

Ippei Sushi [$25-$50] – A cozy, unpretentious sushi bar in the Katamachi district where you can enjoy local, fresh Hokuriku seafood at reasonable prices over the counter. A great local experience without the tourist crowds of the big chain sushi restaurants.

Fukuwauchi [$20-$40] – Known for offering a traditional and lively nabe (Japanese hot pot) dining experience, specializing in combining nabe with some of the best udon in Kanazawa for a truly authentic, shared meal.

Uchuken Syokudo [$15-$25] – A Kanazawa institution for over 30 years, popular with locals for its casual, hearty meals, particularly the Tonbara Set Meal (pork belly) and Yakisoba with a secret sauce.

Kourin Sushi [$25-$45] – Widely loved by both locals and visitors for its generous and affordable lunch sets featuring fresh seafood sourced daily from Omicho Market, a good option for quality sushi near the city center.

Bar Owl’s Hoot [$10-$20] – A very friendly local izakaya (Japanese pub) known for serving good, inexpensive food like their signature Keema Curry alongside Japanese whiskey and other pub fare.

Otafuku Udon & Soba [$15-$30] – Housed in a beautifully preserved traditional Japanese house with a serene mossy garden, offering a peaceful setting for enjoying classic udon and soba noodles.

Sashimiya [$25-$45] – A former fishmonger turned izakaya offering an abundant and high-quality selection of fresh seafood and local sake, sourced directly from the nearby Omicho Market.

Kanazawa Tamazushi So-Honten [$40-$70] – A stylish sushi restaurant that preserves the traditional sushi culture of Kanazawa, known for its elegant ambiance and fresh, local catches, offering a refined dining experience.

Shunsai Washoku Koufuku [$40-$70] – A popular Japanese restaurant that focuses on nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) and crab, offering seasonal fish dishes sourced fresh every morning for a strong taste of Hokuriku.

Ikiiki Tei Omicho Store [$30-$50] – A cozy, small sushi restaurant with only 10 seats, famously opening early (7 am) to serve an intimate and super-fresh sushi breakfast or brunch from the market.

Tsubame [$25-$45] – A quiet spot to taste authentic Kanazawa “home-style cooking” using local, seasonal ingredients, giving a true sense of the region’s everyday food culture.

Tile [$30-$50] – A stylish seafood restaurant located in a renovated traditional building, known for its creative seafood bowls that offer a modern twist on the classic kaisendon.

Fuwari [$35-$60] – An upscale izakaya set in a historical Japanese house in a quiet alley, specializing in charcoal-grilled seasonal seafood and local Hokuriku produce, blending traditional setting with modern technique.

Kanazawa Machiya Hatch (Haachi) [$40-$70] – A sophisticated Italian-Japanese fusion restaurant housed in a stylishly renovated Kanazawa townhouse, using local ingredients to create inventive dishes near Kanazawa Station.

COIL [$30-$50] – A modern, minimalist sushi spot specializing in temakizushi (hand-rolled sushi) and hosomaki (thin rolls), allowing diners to customize their rolls with dozens of simple yet delicious fillings.

Respiración [$70-$120] – A highly-regarded modern Spanish restaurant that passionately uses Ishikawa’s unique local ingredients in an authentic Spanish style, particularly known for its superb paella and cultural fusion.

Oriental Brewing Higashiyama [$15-$30] – A local craft beer pub in the historic Higashi Chaya district, offering a relaxed vibe and pub fare alongside their house-brewed Kanazawa craft beers, a modern local drinking experience.

Pizzeria Salina [$20-$40] – Certified by the True Neapolitan Pizza Association, this restaurant offers authentic, wood-fired Naples-style pizza, providing a high-quality international dining option loved by locals.

AIPINI [$30-$50] – A quality Italian restaurant located in the Yasuecho area, offering a strong focus on Italian classics with a Japanese refinement, from lunch to late dinner.

Fusion21 [$30-$50] – A stylish cafe-restaurant located within the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa, known for its modern and contemporary cuisine that matches its artistic setting.

Plat Home – Kanazawa Kitchen [$30-$50] – Known for its diverse menu that blends traditional local dishes with innovative fusion creations, offering a sophisticated gourmet dining option in the city.

Carlo Centro [$30-$50] – A popular spot for Italian cuisine and pizza, located near the 21st Century Museum, offering a good mix of traditional Italian flavors and modern presentation.

La Campagne [$30-$50] – An Italian brasserie that values the natural flavor and texture of ingredients, continuously evolving to offer delicious, fun, and new dishes throughout the day.

Kataori [$150-$250+] – An exquisite, highly-rated Japanese kaiseki (traditional multi-course dinner) restaurant, famous for the beautiful harmony between its refined seasonal cuisine and the vessels it’s served in. Reservations are essential.

Zeniya [$150-$250+] – A two-Michelin-starred restaurant led by an English-speaking celebrity chef, known for its highly personalized and avant-garde take on traditional Japanese kaiseki cuisine, attracting gourmands worldwide.

Otome Sushi [$60-$100] – A renowned, multi-generational sushi restaurant that focuses exclusively on local seafood from the Hokuriku region, providing an exceptionally high-quality and authentic sushi experience far from the metropolis.

Sushi Shinosuke [$150-$250+] – A sushi spot highly favored in food rankings, featuring an expert selection of seasonal and carefully chosen Hokuriku ingredients for an exceptional, premium sushi experience.

Kisanuki [$200-$350+] – A relatively new but highly anticipated omakase experience rooted in Kanazawa’s rich culinary heritage, opened by a chef trained at some of Japan’s most respected kaiseki restaurants.

Tsubajin [$150-$250+] – A true piece of history and among the oldest ryotei (high-class traditional Japanese restaurant) in the region, offering banquet cuisine once enjoyed by feudal lords in a grand setting.

MAKINONCI [$120-$200+] – An intimate French restaurant where the chef welcomes guests to his open kitchen, offering creative French cuisine prepared with the finest local Japanese ingredients and a casual elegance.

Tempura Koizumi [$80-$150] – A refined restaurant set in a graceful traditional Japanese house, specializing in the delicate art of tempura, using fresh seafood and vegetables from the local region.

Sushi Ikuta [$80-$150] – An excellent value for high-quality sushi, this spot is tucked away from the bustling streets and offers a simple, elegant atmosphere and a welcoming young owner dedicated to local fish.

Teppanyaki Restaurant Kaga [$70-$120] – Located on the 19th floor of the ANA Crowne Plaza, offering high-quality teppanyaki (grilled on an iron griddle) with a focus on local ingredients and a spectacular view.

Kanazawa Curry Laboratory [$10-$20] – A great place to try Kanazawa Curry, a local specialty known for its rich, thick, dark sauce, often served with a tonkatsu cutlet and shredded cabbage over rice.

Ramen Taiga [$10-$20] – An ultimate local favorite for ramen, famous for its intense black miso ramen, spicy miso ramen, and, seasonally, an ingenious crab miso ramen. Expect a short wait.

Ushioya [$20-$40] – Tucked away behind a seafood retail shop in Omicho Market, this intimate sashimi bar is an excellent, less touristy spot for a high-quality kaisendon (seafood bowl).

Daishogun Kanazawa [$40-$70] – A yakiniku (Japanese BBQ) house that serves high-quality Japanese beef, including Noto beef, with a unique kuwabara-yaki style (sirloin dipped in egg yolk).

Kanazawa Kagami [$50-$90] – Reimagines Kanazawa oden as an elegant kaiseki-style dining experience, pairing unique ingredients with a tailored broth for an elevated taste of this local comfort food.

Gold Leaf Soft Cream (Various Stalls) [$5-$10] – Not a meal, but an unmissable Kanazawa experience: soft-serve ice cream topped with a wafer-thin sheet of local Kanazawa gold leaf. Many shops offer this.

Yoroppaken Main Store (Fukui) [$15-$25] – (Hokuriku Coast area, in Fukui) The originator of Fukui’s famous katsudon, where the pork cutlet is served with a unique, aromatic original sauce over rice.

Makibi San-an [$60-$100] – A high-end teppanyaki restaurant that specializes in branded Wagyu beef, cooked to perfection on the iron griddle to lock in the meat’s deep flavor.

Sabo Issho [$10-$20] – A tea shop specializing in Hojicha (roasted green tea), a perfect spot to enjoy a uniquely Japanese afternoon with seasonal sweets and a warm, nutty tea.

Bar Spoon: Located in Kanazawa’s Katamachi area, this intimate bar is known for its exquisite service, delicious cocktails, and jazzy, cozy atmosphere. The master bartender is highly acclaimed.

FURANSU COCKTAIL BAR: Found on Kiguramachi street near downtown Kanazawa, this refined, cozy bar is run by Japanese-French brothers and is highly regarded for its innovative, freshly made cocktails.

JIGGER BAR St.Louis: A hidden gem in Katamachi, Kanazawa, that has maintained a reputation for over 30 years for its consistently high-quality, outstanding cocktails in a classic bar setting.

Bar Toki: Situated in Eiheiji-cho, Fukui Prefecture, this elegant bar is unique for its setting, surrounded by glass and a water basin, giving a floating sensation. It specializes in cocktails made with domestic spirits and seasonal Hokuriku fruits.

Kaname Bar: A self-described “dive bar” located on the Tatemachi shopping street in Kanazawa, this friendly spot is known for its American-bar feel, welcoming staff, and serving original cocktails and comfort “soul food.”

Tobira: Known as “The traveler’s bar,” this spot in Kanazawa is perfect for mingling with people from all over the world while enjoying good drinks on the second floor.

Puddle Social: A large, cozy bar located downtown in Kanazawa. It’s a great place to meet people, enjoy a wide selection of drinks, and sometimes hosts events.

nyumba: Found close to Kanazawa station, this dining bar offers a selection of around 25 craft beers and a menu of home-cooked Japanese food, run by a laid-back family.

Baraya: A tiny, traditional 7-seater bar tucked away in the backstreets of Kiguramachi, Kanazawa. It offers an awesome selection of local sake, providing a true, intimate Japanese bar experience.

Bar De Mitomi: Conveniently located just a three-minute walk from Toyama Station, this spot offers a memorable sake journey, featuring local sake, cocktails, and delicious dishes.

BAR Hakuba Kan: A classic bar near Toyama’s Chitetsubiru Mae Station, known for its relaxed atmosphere and quality drinks.

Oriental Brewing: Located in Kanazawa’s Higashi Chaya District, this spot stands out for its home-brewed craft beers and is great for pre-dinner drinks and snacks like pizza.

Kanazawa Music Bar: Situated in the Katamachi area of Kanazawa, this bar lives up to its name, featuring records lining the walls, a high-quality sound system, and music ranging from classics to independent Japanese artists.

Zion: A foreigner-friendly, western-style Japanese bar in Kanazawa, known for its welcoming atmosphere and super-nice staff.

Pajero: An “art bar” in Kanazawa that serves local Ishikawa sakes and beers, displaying a different side of the local art scene and featuring a unique, almost novel-like atmosphere downstairs.

alpes: A natural wine bar in Toyama City, offering a cozy and nostalgic atmosphere, housed in a renovated former snack bar and praised for its owner’s character and great choice of music.

BASE: A large venue in Kanazawa’s Katamachi district that hosts big club events. It’s known for its friendly staff and ability to maintain a local feel while playing techno beats.

Metro City ZIGGY: A popular music bar/club/hotspot mix in the center of downtown Kanazawa. It features a dance floor, a full bar with Jamaican rum, beer, and sake, and a lounge area.

Orbital: Located on the 3rd floor in Kanazawa, this venue is fully stocked with a bar, a dance floor, a DJ booth, and darts, making it a great, sociable place for a proper night out.

Function Space: A lounge bar in Kanazawa where guests can sit down and enjoy good music (Latin, jazz, disco, house, reggae). It frequently hosts live DJs on Friday and Saturday nights.

Hidingplace: Located in Fukui, this venue is a popular choice for live music, particularly jazz, offering a cozy ambiance perfect for sipping sake or a cocktail.

Cotton Club: A delightful jazz club in Toyama City, offering a warm and friendly atmosphere with live performances from talented local musicians, perfect for a relaxed evening with drinks and snacks.

JAZZ SPOT BOKUNEN: A dedicated, hideaway jazz cafe and bar near Omicho Market in Kanazawa where jazz lovers gather to enjoy analog recordings from a collection of over 80 years of vinyl records.

Kennedy Club: A club/bar in Fukui’s Katamachi entertainment district known for its live oldies music and 60s atmosphere. It encourages customers to join the live band for an impromptu performance.

jazz music dining bar NOEL: Located in the suburbs of Kanazawa, this bar features light Jazz and live music, fully equipped for performances, offering a relaxed environment for a drink.

Sky Lounge “Le Grand Chariot”: A high-end lounge on the highest floor of a building in Kanazawa (30F), offering magnificent city views, quality beverages, food, and live music, mainly JAZZ, from local pianists and vocalists.

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