JESUIT MISSIONS OF CHIQUITOS
The Jesuit Missions of Chiquitos represent a unique living legacy in the Bolivian lowlands. They are the only “reduction” settlements in South America that were not destroyed after the Jesuit expulsion.
This region is a breathtaking fusion of European Baroque art and indigenous Chiquitano culture. It is a land where 18th-century wooden churches still echo with the sounds of world-class Renaissance music.
Most Popular Attractions
Primary Mission Towns:
San José de Chiquitos: The only mission church built of stone and lime, featuring a unique facade that resembles a Spanish fortress.
Concepción Cathedral: Widely considered the “jewel” of the missions, famous for its intricate wood carvings and massive bell tower.
San Javier Mission: The oldest mission in the region, featuring stunning Baroque architecture and a deeply spiritual atmosphere.
Santa Ana de Velasco: A humble and authentic church built by the indigenous community shortly after the Jesuits were expelled.
San Rafael de Velasco: Known for its impressive gold-leaf altar and its massive, original wooden pillars.
San Miguel de Velasco: Home to one of the most meticulously restored altars and a thriving workshop of traditional woodcarvers.
San Ignacio de Velasco: The largest town in the circuit, serving as a hub for exploring the surrounding “deep” missions.
Cultural & Living Heritage:
Woodcarving Workshops (Talleres): Witness local artisans carving the iconic Chiquitano angels and saints used to decorate the churches.
International Baroque Music Festival: A world-renowned event held every two years, bringing global musicians to play in the historic mission naves.
Chiquitano Indigenous Communities: Small villages surrounding the missions where ancient traditions, languages, and weaving techniques are preserved.
Mission Museums (Museos Misionales): Collections of original Jesuit-era colonial art, musical scores, and sacred vestments found within the church complexes.
The Chiquitano Baroque Orchestra: Local youth orchestras that perform 18th-century music discovered in the mission archives.
Natural Landmarks & Landscapes:
Valle de Tucabaca: A stunning valley offering panoramic views of the Chiquitano dry forest and ancient rock formations.
Aguas Calientes: Natural thermal rivers located near Roboré, perfect for relaxing in warm, medicinal waters.
Chochís Sanctuary: A modern red-stone sanctuary built at the foot of the “La Torre” monolith, blending mission style with nature.
La Torre de Chochís: A massive, solitary rock tower that dominates the skyline and offers challenging trekking opportunities.
Santiago de Chiquitos: A peaceful village located within a valley of rock paintings and cool mountain breezes.
Noel Kempff Mercado National Park: A massive UNESCO site accessible from the region, featuring the spectacular Arco Iris falls.
Laguna Concepción: A large lake and RAMSAR site essential for birdwatching and observing local biodiversity.
Cuevas de Miserendino: Ancient caves and rock formations located in the hills surrounding the mission circuit.
Activities & Experiences
Marvel at San Javier Mission: Visit the first mission ever founded in the region (1691), famous for its intricate wood carvings and the stunning Baroque-style architecture designed by Father Schmid.
Attend a Baroque Music Concert: If your timing is right, experience a performance of the International Festival of Renaissance and Baroque American Music, featuring scores discovered in the missions.
Explore the Luthier Workshops in Santa Ana: Watch skilled artisans hand-craft world-class violins and cellos, keeping a centuries-old musical tradition alive.
Wander through Concepción: Visit the Cathedral of Concepción, widely considered the “Jewel of the Missions,” and explore its museum which details the massive restoration efforts.
Hike to the Valle de la Luna in San José: Discover unique rock formations and a desert-like landscape just outside the town of San José de Chiquitos.
Visit the San José de Chiquitos Stone Church: Unlike the other wooden missions, this is the only one built with stone and lime, featuring a facade reminiscent of Spanish missions in the Americas.
Swim in the Aguas Calientes: Relax in the natural thermal rivers near Roboré, where the water is warm and the sandy bottom provides a natural spa experience.
Discover the Rock Paintings of San Rafael: Take a guided tour to see ancient cave paintings that pre-date the missions, located in the surrounding hills.
Shop for Chiquitana Handicrafts: Look for “lienzos” (hand-woven fabrics) and sun hats in the local markets of San Miguel, known for its high-quality artisanal heritage.
Visit the San Ignacio de Velasco Reservoir: Enjoy a sunset by the Guapomo dam, a popular local spot for relaxing and taking in the vast landscape of the Velasco province.
Learn Traditional Woodcarving: Join a short workshop in San Miguel to try your hand at carving the iconic cherub and floral motifs that decorate the mission altars.
Local Tips & Transport
The “Flota” (Bus) Network: The most common way to travel between Santa Cruz de la Sierra and the missions is by bus. Most depart from the Terminal Bimodal. Be prepared for long journeys (6–8 hours) depending on which mission you are visiting first.
Private “Trufi” or 4×4: For more comfort and speed, shared taxis or private 4×4 rentals are highly recommended. The roads are a mix of paved highways and unpaved red-earth tracks that can become difficult during the rainy season.
The Ferrobus: For a unique experience, take the train from Santa Cruz to San José de Chiquitos. It is a scenic and comfortable way to reach the southern part of the mission circuit.
Walking Within Towns: Once you arrive at any of the mission towns, they are very compact. Everything revolves around the main plaza and the church, making them perfectly walkable.
Respect the “Living” Churches: Unlike many European cathedrals that feel like museums, these are active community centers. Be mindful of mass schedules and dress modestly when entering.
The Red Earth (Tierra Colorada): The soil in Chiquitos is vibrant red. It is beautiful but will stain your shoes and clothes permanently. Wear footwear that you don’t mind getting dusty.
Siesta and Heat: This region is tropical and can be incredibly humid. Like Andalusia, life stops between 12 PM and 3 PM. Most shops will close, and locals will retreat to the shade of their porches.
The Jesuit-Chiquitano Fusion: The culture here is a unique blend of indigenous Chiquitano traditions and Jesuit influence. This is most evident in the music and the “Cabildos” (local indigenous councils) that still play a role in town governance.
Stay Hydrated: Always carry bottled water. The heat in the “Chiquitania” can be intense, and while the mission towns have amenities, the stretches of road between them are very isolated.
Hidden Gems:
- Chochís: A tiny village near Roboré featuring the “Santuario Mariano de la Torre,” a stunning modern sanctuary built at the foot of a massive red monolith.
- The Sunsets in San Rafael: This is one of the more isolated missions; the lack of light pollution makes the starry nights and sunsets over the church tower unforgettable.
- Museum of San Ignacio: It houses a collection of original wooden statues and gold-leaf altarpieces that were hidden for centuries to protect them from Portuguese explorers.
Language: Spanish is the main language, but you may hear Chiquitano dialects in smaller villages. English is rare outside of high-end tour operators, so a basic Spanish vocabulary is essential.
Top Restaurants
Sabor Chiquitano [$8-$15] – A beloved local staple in San José de Chiquitos that serves authentic regional dishes like majadito and locro in a simple, welcoming dining room near the main plaza.
Restaurante Ganadero [$10-$18] – Located on the main plaza of San Javier, this rustic spot is famous for its high-quality beef cuts and traditional Chiquitano breakfast of cuñapé and coffee.
La Pascana [$7-$12] – A classic “pueblo” eatery in the heart of San Miguel where locals gather for a fixed-price almuerzo familiar featuring hearty soups and mountain-sized portions of rice and meat.
Doña Nena [$5-$10] – An unassuming family-run kitchen in San Ignacio de Velasco known for serving the best empanadas de queso and traditional sonso (yucca and cheese) in the early mornings.
El Corralito [$10-$18] – A traditional steakhouse in San Ignacio de Velasco that specializes in grilled meats served with local staples like fried yucca and fresh cheese.
Restaurante Marielita [$6-$12] – A humble but essential stop in San Rafael de Velasco, offering home-cooked Bolivian meals in a shaded patio setting just steps from the historic mission church.
Pensión Pariaca [$5-$10] – A true local “pension” in San Rafael where the menu is handwritten daily and the focus is on filling, traditional stews for the local community.
La Casona Vieja [$8-$15] – Set in a colonial-style building in San Miguel, this spot offers a nostalgic atmosphere and a menu focused on pique macho and other Bolivian classics.
Restaurante Las Estrellas [$8-$14] – A casual venue on the main avenue of San Miguel that is popular with residents for its evening offerings of grilled chicken and cold beer.
Salsamentaria Doña Pabla [$4-$8] – A legendary snack spot in San Ignacio de Velasco where you can find authentic salteñas and fresh fruit juices, perfect for a quick midday break.
Restaurante El Chiquitano [$10-$18] – Located in Concepción, this family-oriented churrasquería is well-regarded for its slow-cooked meats and friendly, small-town service.
Mi Llajta Restaurant [$8-$15] – A friendly establishment in San José de Chiquitos that brings the flavors of the Bolivian highlands to the lowlands, specializing in silpancho and spicy ajís.
La Tapera de Baruqui [$5-$12] – A cozy “snack” restaurant in San José de Chiquitos that serves traditional fried snacks and light meals in a rustic, open-air environment.
Restaurante Altiplano [$7-$13] – Found in the historical center of San Miguel, this no-frills spot provides a reliable and authentic taste of the local daily diet.
Pensión Paradita [$5-$10] – A favorite among local workers in San Rafael for its quick service and consistently tasty platos del día.