EXUMA CAYS LAND AND SEA PARK
The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park is a pioneer of marine conservation, serving as the first “no-take” reserve in the Caribbean. It protects a breathtaking archipelago of sapphire waters.
This pristine sanctuary is a haven for biodiversity, where vibrant coral reefs and ivory sands remain untouched. It offers an unparalleled escape into the raw, natural splendor of the Bahamas.
Most Popular Attractions
Park Headquarters & Northern Cays:
Warderick Wells Cay: The heart of the park and home to the headquarters, featuring extensive hiking trails and the famous whale skeleton on the beach.
Boo Boo Hill: A legendary hilltop at Warderick Wells where hikers leave driftwood signs to appease the gods for safe passage.
Powerful View: A scenic lookout point offering a 360-degree vista of the shifting turquoise channels surrounding the central park area.
Emerald Rock: A premier mooring field known for its impossibly clear water and proximity to vibrant snorkeling spots.
Hog Cay: A secluded area within the park boundaries offering quiet anchorage and pristine, uninhabited shorelines for exploration.
Shroud Cay: A unique marshy environment where “The Washing Machine” current takes swimmers on a natural lazy river ride through mangroves.
Camp Driftwood: A historic site on Shroud Cay where a hermit once lived; it provides a stunning view of the Exuma Sound.
Wildlife & Marine Encounters:
Rocky Dundas Caves: Two magnificent sea caves filled with colorful stalactites and sunbeams, accessible only by swimming at low tide.
The Aquarium: A world-renowned snorkeling site near O’Brien’s Cay teeming with friendly tropical fish that surround swimmers instantly.
Compass Cay Sharks: A famous spot nearby where visitors can swim with and touch gentle, docile nurse sharks in shallow water.
Big Major Cay (Pig Beach): The iconic home of the world-famous swimming pigs, located just outside the park’s southern boundary.
Bitter Guana Cay: One of the few places left to see the endangered Northern Bahamian Rock Iguanas in their natural habitat.
Sea Turtle Shallows: Various grass beds throughout the park where green sea turtles can be spotted grazing peacefully.
O’Brien’s Cay Sunken Plane: A shallow-water wreck of a small aircraft that has become an artificial reef for vibrant coral and sponges.
Sandbars & Coastal Wonders:
Pipe Creek Sandbar: A massive, shimmering stretch of white sand that emerges at low tide, creating a surreal desert-in-the-ocean effect.
Rachel’s Bubble Bath: A natural “jacuzzi” pool on Compass Cay where crashing waves create a frothy, bubbling foam perfect for wading.
Cambridge Cay: A popular anchorage known for its deep-water access and proximity to several high-density coral gardens.
Little Bells Cay (Cambridge Cay): A serene spot featuring small, private beaches and crystal-clear “swimming pool” waters.
Pasture Cay: A protected nesting ground for sea birds and a great spot for observing coastal flora and fauna.
Danger Reef: A thrilling dive site for experienced divers, known for its high population of Caribbean reef sharks and large groupers.
Halls Pond Cay: An exclusive and quiet cay within the park limits, often frequented by luxury yachts seeking total privacy.
Activities & Experiences
Snorkel the Sea Aquarium: Dive into crystal-clear waters at O’Brien’s Cay, where a natural “aquarium” teems with vibrant tropical fish and colorful coral gardens.
Hike to Boo Boo Hill: Trek to the highest point on Warderick Wells Cay to leave a drift-wood offering and enjoy panoramic views of the turquoise “flats.”
Explore the Rocky Dundas Caves: Swim into these ancient limestone sea caves to see impressive stalactites and stalagmites illuminated by sunlight reflecting off the water.
Whale Skeleton Viewing: Visit the beach at Warderick Wells to see the massive skeleton of a 53-foot sperm whale, serving as a powerful reminder of marine conservation.
Walk the Sandbars at Low Tide: Experience the surreal beauty of Pipe Creek, where shifting tides reveal vast, winding white sandbars perfect for a secluded stroll.
Kayak the Mangrove Creeks: Rent a kayak to explore the quiet, winding mangroves of Shroud Cay, a vital nursery for sea turtles, rays, and lobster.
Scuba Dive “The Wall”: Experience a dramatic underwater drop-off where the shallow bank meets the deep Exuma Sound, offering sightings of reef sharks and large groupers.
Birdwatching on the Nature Trails: Wander the established paths on Warderick Wells to spot rare Bahamian birds, including the White-tailed Tropicbird and various species of terns.
Visit the Hutia Sanctuary: Catch a glimpse of the rare Bahamian Hutia (the only native land mammal) on Warderick Wells, where they have been protected and successfully reintroduced.
Mooring Field Stargazing: Spend a night on a moored boat in the park’s protected harbor; with zero light pollution, the Milky Way appears exceptionally bright.
Local Tips & Transport
Boat is Essential: As a “Land and Sea” park spanning 176 square miles, there are no roads connecting the islands. Access is exclusively by private boat, chartered vessel, or seaplane.
Mooring Reservations: To protect the delicate coral reefs, anchoring is strictly regulated. Use the Dockwa app or VHF Channel 16 to reserve a mooring ball at Warderick Wells (Park Headquarters) or Shroud Cay.
Dinghy Exploration: Once your main vessel is moored, a small dinghy or tender is the best way to navigate the shallow “flats” and reach the hidden beaches and cave entrances.
Navigation Caution: The Exuma Bank is famous for its “skinny water.” Always travel during daylight hours and keep a close eye on the tide charts and water color (dark blue is deep, pale white is very shallow).
No Fuel or Groceries: There are no commercial facilities, grocery stores, or fuel docks within the park boundaries. You must arrive fully “provisioned” from Staniel Cay or Nassau.
“Take Only Pictures, Leave Only Footprints”: This is a strict no-take zone. It is illegal to fish, shell, or remove anything (even a piece of sea glass) from the park. This preservation is why the wildlife is so unafraid of humans here.
Respect the “Boo Boo” Legend: Local lore says the ghosts of shipwrecked sailors haunt Boo Boo Hill. It is tradition to write your boat’s name on a piece of natural driftwood and add it to the pile at the summit for good luck.
Water is Gold: Freshwater is extremely scarce in the Cays. If you are staying on a boat, practice “navy showers” and be mindful of your consumption, as there are no places to refill within the park.
VHF Socializing: The Park Headquarters monitors VHF Channel 16. Listen in for morning weather reports and park announcements—it is the primary “social media” for boaters in the area.
Sun Protection: The reflection of the sun off the white sand and turquoise water is intense. Wear reef-safe sunscreen to protect both your skin and the fragile coral ecosystems.
Hidden Gems:
- Camp Driftwood: Hike to the top of the hill on Shroud Cay where an expatriate once lived in solitude; it offers a 360-degree view of the “washing machine” current.
- The Butterfly Woods: Look for the small, shaded tropical hardwood coppices on Warderick Wells, which provide a cool microclimate for local butterflies and lizards.
- The Ranger Station Gallery: Visit the small office at Warderick Wells to see photos of the park’s history and sign the guest log—it’s the unofficial hub for the “Exuma cruiser” community.
Language & Etiquette: Bahamians are known for their “Island Politeness.” A friendly “Good morning” or “Good afternoon” is expected before jumping into a question or request.
Top Restaurants
Lorraine’s Cafe [$20-$35] – A legendary staple in Black Point on Great Guana Cay, famous for its freshly baked coconut bread and authentic Bahamian cracked conch served in a colorful, welcoming atmosphere.
Ocean Cabin [$15-$30] – Located on Little Farmer’s Cay, this rustic spot is run by local icon Terry Bain and is the place to go for a “mysty” drink and home-style lobster sandwiches.
TY’s Sunset Bar & Grill [$25-$45] – A stunning beachfront gem on Little Farmer’s Cay that offers incredible sunset views and some of the best grilled grouper and peas ‘n rice in the archipelago.
Scorpios Inn [$20-$40] – A lively local hangout in Black Point known for its generous portions of fried fish and its role as a social hub for both boaters and residents.
Flyin’ Pig Cafe [$15-$30] – A cheerful and convenient stop on Staniel Cay, perfect for a quick breakfast burrito or a hearty sandwich before heading out on a boat excursion.
Big D’s Conch Spot [$20-$35] – Situated on the northern shores of Great Exuma near the park boundary, this brightly colored shack is a must for its made-to-order conch salad and beachfront picnic tables.
T&A Checkout [$10-$25] – A true “hidden gem” in Black Point where you can grab local takeaway favorites like chicken-in-the-bag and Bahamian macaroni and cheese.
Kermit’s Airport Lounge [$15-$30] – A surprisingly authentic spot near the Staniel Cay airstrip, offering cold Kalik beers and traditional Bahamian breakfast for early arrivals.
Exuma Point Beach Resort [$25-$45] – Located at the northern tip of Great Exuma in Rolleville, this family-run restaurant serves a famous Sunday buffet featuring every Bahamian classic imaginable.
Government Wharf Fish Fry [$15-$30] – A collection of small stalls on Staniel Cay where locals gather to grill fresh catches; it’s the most authentic, no-frills dining experience in the central cays.
Emerald Sunset View [$20-$40] – A breezy, elevated spot on Great Guana Cay that offers sweeping views of the turquoise banks and reliable Bahamian seafood platters.
De’Sha’s Restaurant [$20-$35] – A local favorite in Black Point known for its warm hospitality and traditional steamed pork or fish dishes.
Staniel Cay Yacht Club [$30-$60] – The social heart of the Exumas, this iconic waterfront restaurant serves fresh-caught mahi-mahi and a famous “goombay smash” in a bustling, nautical setting.
MacDuff’s Restaurant [$35-$65] – Located on Norman’s Cay, this “barefoot-chic” outpost serves legendary cheeseburgers and fresh seafood in a setting that feels like a private island escape.
Xuma’s Restaurant and Bar [$40-$75] – A sophisticated waterfront spot on Highborne Cay featuring elevated Bahamian-fusion dishes like lobster pasta and blackened fish tacos with a view of the marina.
The Deck at Staniel Cay [$30-$55] – An open-air dining space on Staniel Cay that focuses on fresh salads, grilled seafood, and a lively atmosphere during the yachting season.
Compass Cay Marina [$20-$40] – Best known for its “famous burgers” served on the dock, this is a casual but essential stop where you can eat while watching nurse sharks swim below.
23° North [$50-$85] – A stylish beach club and restaurant located just south of the park boundary, offering a refined menu of sushi, seafood, and craft cocktails.
Sea Level Dining [$45-$80] – The upscale, reservation-only evening experience at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, featuring multi-course meals and candlelit tables overlooking the water.
The Hill House [$60-$120] – Perched on the highest point of Fowl Cay, this exclusive restaurant offers a rotating gourmet menu and 360-degree views of the surrounding cays.
Chat ‘N’ Chill [$25-$50] – While a boat ride south on Stocking Island, this world-famous spot is the “gold standard” for beach BBQs, specifically their Sunday pig roast.
Copia [$35-$65] – A contemporary bistro in the northern Exumas area known for its creative use of local produce and beautifully plated seafood.
Blu on the Water [$35-$70] – A trendy waterfront restaurant offering a mix of Mediterranean and Bahamian flavors, located near the southern gateway to the Cays.
Palapa @ Grand Isle [$45-$90] – An elegant poolside restaurant offering a high-end Caribbean menu with a focus on fresh lobster and fine wines.
Cocoplum Bistro [$40-$75] – A charming, French-influenced restaurant located on a quiet beach near the northern end of Great Exuma, perfect for a romantic lunch.
Santanna’s Bar & Grill [$30-$55] – Though further south, it’s worth the journey for their world-famous cracked lobster and the chance to eat where the Pirates of the Caribbean cast once dined.
Over Yonder Cay [$200-$500] – An ultra-exclusive private island experience where world-class chefs tailor every meal to the guest’s specific desires (accessible by prior arrangement).
Musha Cay Dining [$250-$600] – Part of David Copperfield’s private island resort, offering theatrical and exceptionally luxurious dining experiences for those staying on-site or arriving by superyacht.
The Great House at Kamalame Cay [$100-$200] – Located just a short hop from the northern Cays, this West Indies-style manor offers a legendary “long lunch” and refined island cuisine.
Royal Island [$150-$300] – An intimate private island dining destination that specializes in custom-curated beach dinners and high-end seafood.
Cave Cay Restaurant [$80-$150] – A secluded spot on a private island that offers a high degree of privacy and a menu focused on the absolute freshest local catch.
Sampson Cay Club [$70-$120] – Formerly a public marina, now a more exclusive enclave offering high-quality international dining for visiting yacht owners.
Lumber Cay Picnic Service [$100-$200] – Not a building, but a premium service where chefs from nearby resorts set up white-linen dining directly on the park’s sandbars.