CUENCA & LOJA
The Southern Highlands are the cultural heart of the Ecuadorian Andes, where colonial elegance meets dramatic mountain landscapes. It is a region defined by cobblestone streets, artisan crafts, and soaring peaks.
This high-altitude sanctuary preserves the soul of traditional Ecuador. From the red-tiled roofs of historic Cuenca to the lush, mystical valleys of Loja, it offers a serene yet breathtaking escape.
Most Popular Attractions
City Cores & Historic Landmarks:
New Cathedral (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción): Cuenca’s iconic landmark featuring giant blue domes and an impressive marble interior.
Old Cathedral (Iglesia de El Sagrario): A 16th-century temple turned museum, showcasing the earliest colonial religious art in Cuenca.
Plaza de las Flores: A vibrant, fragrant open-air flower market frequently cited as one of the most beautiful in the world.
Puente Roto: The “Broken Bridge” over the Tomebamba River, offering a picturesque look at the city’s architectural history.
Calle Larga: Cuenca’s most famous street, lined with museums, cafes, and historic buildings overlooking the riverbank.
Loja Gate (Puerta de la Ciudad): A medieval-style fortress gate that serves as the symbolic entrance to Loja, housing galleries and views.
Loja Cathedral: A beautiful structure in the heart of the city facing the central Plaza de la Independencia.
San Sebastián Square: A colorful, historic plaza in Loja known for its tall clock tower and traditional colonial atmosphere.
Modern Attractions & Museums:
Museo Pumapungo: A massive ethnographic museum and archaeological park featuring Inca ruins and indigenous botanical gardens.
Museo de las Culturas Aborígenes: A private collection in Cuenca housing over 5,000 archaeological pieces from Ecuador’s pre-Columbian history.
Homero Ortega Panama Hat Museum: A fascinating look at the traditional weaving process of the famous (and misnamed) Panama hats.
Turi Viewpoint (Mirador de Turi): A hilltop balcony offering the most famous panoramic view of Cuenca’s skyline and surrounding mountains.
Museum of Modern Art (MCAM): Located in a former temperance house, showcasing the best of contemporary Ecuadorian and Latin American art.
Jipiro Recreation Park: A unique park in Loja featuring scaled-down replicas of famous international architecture and a large lake.
Highland Countryside & Natural Wonders:
Cajas National Park: A high-altitude tundra landscape with over 200 glacial lakes, perfect for hiking and spotting wild llamas.
Vilcabamba Valley: Known as the “Valley of Longevity,” a world-famous retreat for its climate and supposedly long-lived residents.
Podocarpus National Park: A “mega-diverse” reserve near Loja spanning from paramo highlands to cloud forests.
Ingapirca Ruins: The most significant Inca archaeological site in Ecuador, featuring the unique sun temple.
Chordeleg: A nearby artisan town famous for its intricate silver filigree jewelry and traditional ceramics.
Gualaceo: A scenic valley town known for its traditional “ikat” weaving and bustling indigenous fruit markets.
El Cisne Basilica: A massive, Gothic-style shrine perched on a mountain ridge, a major pilgrimage site near Loja.
Saraguro: A unique indigenous town where the community maintains distinct traditional black clothing and ancient customs.
Activities & Experiences
Walk the Cobblestone Streets of Cuenca’s Historic Center: Explore this UNESCO World Heritage site, admiring the flower market and the blue-domed New Cathedral.
Hike the “Lakes Trail” in Cajas National Park: Experience the high-altitude paramo ecosystem, home to over 200 glacial lakes and dramatic mountain scenery.
Visit a Panama Hat Workshop: Learn the surprising history of the Sombrero de Paja Toquilla—which originated in Ecuador, not Panama—and see master weavers at work in Cuenca.
Take a Dip in the Baños de Cuenca Thermal Springs: Relax in volcanic hot springs and mineral mud baths in the parish of Baños, just outside the city.
Search for Longevity in Vilcabamba: Visit the “Valley of Longevity” near Loja, famous for its perfect climate and residents who famously live past 100.
Explore the Podocarpus National Park: Discover incredible biodiversity, from giant ferns to rare birds, in this massive cloud forest reserve near Loja.
Visit the Sanctuary of El Cisne: Journey to this remote mountain basilica, home to the revered “Virgin of the Swan,” a site of one of the largest pilgrimages in South America.
Take a Coffee Tasting Tour in Loja: Sample some of the world’s finest high-altitude Arabica beans at a local farm and learn about the “bean-to-cup” process.
Shop the Artisan Markets of Gualaceo and Chordeleg: Take a day trip from Cuenca to find intricate silver filigree jewelry and traditional hand-woven textiles (Ikat).
Birdwatch in the Buenaventura Reserve: Spot the rare Long-wattled Umbrellabird and dozens of hummingbird species in this lush subtropical forest.
Climb the Turi Viewpoint at Sunset: Take a taxi or bus to the Mirador de Turi for the most iconic panoramic view of Cuenca as the city lights begin to flicker on.
Local Tips & Transport
Walking and Taxis in Cuenca: Cuenca is highly walkable, especially the historic center. For further distances, taxis are abundant and very cheap; ensure the driver uses the “taxímetro” (meter) during the day.
The Cuenca Tranvía: The modern light-rail system (Tranvía) is the best way to get from the airport or the bus terminal to the historic center. You will need to buy a card or a single-use ticket at the station kiosks.
Inter-City Buses: To travel between Cuenca and Loja, use the executive bus lines from the Terminal Terrestre. The trip takes about 4.5 to 5 hours through stunning (but winding) mountain passes.
Loja’s Electric Taxis: Loja is a pioneer in eco-friendly transport in Ecuador. You will notice a high number of electric taxis in the city, which are clean, quiet, and affordable.
Flying In: Cuenca (CUE) and Loja (LOH – Catamayo) have regional airports. Note that Loja’s airport is in Catamayo, about 45 minutes away from the city; you will need to take a shuttle or taxi to reach Loja proper.
Prepare for “Four Seasons in One Day”: The highlands are notorious for rapid weather changes. Always dress in layers and carry a small umbrella or rain jacket, even if the morning starts sunny.
Altitude Awareness: Cuenca sits at $2,560$ meters ($8,400$ feet). Stay hydrated, avoid heavy meals on your first day, and try “mate de coca” (coca leaf tea) if you feel a headache or shortness of breath.
Dining Etiquette: Lunch (almuerzo) is the main meal of the day. You can find “Almuerzos Ejecutivos” (soup, main, juice, and dessert) for very low prices. In Loja, don’t miss Repe Lojano (a creamy green banana soup).
Sunday Closures: Many shops and some restaurants in Cuenca and Loja close on Sunday afternoons. This is a day for families and church; plan your shopping for earlier in the week.
Loja, the Musical Capital: Loja is known as the “Music Capital of Ecuador.” Keep an eye out for free concerts in the plazas or live music in the cafes—it is a point of immense local pride.
Hidden Gems:
- Calle de la Condamine (Cuenca): One of the oldest and most atmospheric streets in Cuenca, perfect for finding traditional barbershops and quirky art galleries.
- The Pumapungo Museum Gardens: Behind the museum lies an archaeological site with Inca ruins and a botanical garden featuring native Andean crops and a bird rescue center.
- Puerta de la Ciudad (Loja): This fairy-tale-style city gate houses a small museum and a tower you can climb for a view of Loja’s main street.
- The Guayacanes Bloom: If you are visiting the Loja province (Zapotillo area) in January, you might witness the “Florecimiento de los Guayacanes,” where the dry forest turns vibrant yellow for just a few days.
Top Restaurants
Corvel [$10-$20] – A beloved local institution in Paute (just outside Cuenca) famous for its traditional Andean trout and roast pork served in a garden-like setting.
Raymipampa [$10-$20] – Situated right next to the New Cathedral in Cuenca’s historic center, this bustling classic offers dependable local staples like locro de papa and humitas.
Guajibamba [$15-$25] – A dedicated “cuyería” in Cuenca’s El Ejido district where the traditional roasted guinea pig is prepared with authentic techniques and local spices.
Tiesto’s [$20-$35] – A legendary spot in Cuenca’s colonial heart known for massive family-style platters served in hot clay pots, focusing on high-quality meats and Andean sides.
La Quinta [$12-$22] – Located in Loja’s scenic outskirts, this rustic restaurant is a local favorite for repe lojano (green banana and cheese soup) and cecina (thinly sliced smoked pork).
Las Redes [$10-$18] – A no-frills, authentic Loja eatery near the city gates specializing in traditional tamales lojanos and hearty chicken stews.
Carbonera [$15-$25] – Found in Cuenca’s residential San Sebastian area, this spot is highly regarded for its wood-fired meats and traditional “mote pillo” (hominy with eggs).
Rancho de Juan [$12-$20] – A popular roadside stop near Loja known for its generous portions of grilled mountain trout and fresh cheese empanadas.
El Carbonero [$12-$25] – A classic Cuenca steakhouse in the Remigio Crespo district that focuses on simple, high-quality cuts of beef cooked over an open flame.
Mahuac [$15-$25] – A cozy spot in Cuenca’s historic district that highlights ancestral Ecuadorian grains and tubers in traditional soups and stews.
Restaurante 200 Millas [$15-$25] – Though far from the coast, this Loja favorite brings fresh mountain-stream trout prepared in various traditional Ecuadorian coastal styles.
Café de la Catedral [$8-$15] – Located under the arches of Cuenca’s Old Cathedral, this is the go-to spot for traditional hot chocolate, coffee, and savory “bolones.”
La Fornace [$15-$25] – A long-standing Cuenca favorite near the Tomebamba River that integrates local mountain ingredients into traditional wood-fired pizzas and pastas.
Dos Chorreras [$25-$45] – Set in a stunning valley near the Cajas National Park, this mountain lodge restaurant specializes in creative trout dishes and artisan chocolates.
Anubis [$20-$40] – A trendy rooftop lounge and restaurant in Cuenca offering a fusion of international techniques with Highland ingredients like Andean blueberries and agave.
Mansión Matilde [$30-$50] – Located on the second floor of a grand house in Cuenca’s main plaza, this restaurant offers a high-concept, modern interpretation of 19th-century Ecuadorian aristocratic cuisine.
Goza Espresso Bar [$15-$30] – A stylish, modern café in Cuenca’s Calle Larga that blends European bistro culture with fresh, organic Ecuadorian highland produce.
San Sebas Café [$15-$25] – A popular expat and local hub in Cuenca known for creative North American-style brunches using strictly local, artisanal ingredients.
Carbono [$25-$40] – A sleek Loja restaurant that experiments with molecular techniques applied to traditional flavors like mishqui (agave nectar).
Negroni [$25-$45] – A chic rooftop spot in Cuenca’s city center that pairs modern sushi and fusion dishes with craft cocktails and views of the blue domes.
The Windhorse Café [$15-$25] – A quirky, creative space in Cuenca’s historic district offering vegetarian-forward dishes and artisanal baked goods with a global twist.
Nectar [$20-$35] – A “slow food” inspired restaurant in Cuenca focusing on seasonal farm-to-table menus that change based on what is growing in the valley.
Sacha [$30-$50] – A modern Loja bistro that uses Amazonian-influenced ingredients found in the southern highlands to create bold, experimental flavors.
Anu [$25-$45] – Tucked away in a colonial courtyard in Cuenca, this restaurant specializes in “author’s cuisine,” focusing on the textures of Andean tubers.
Le Petit Jardin [$30-$50] – Located on the outskirts of Cuenca in San Joaquin, this weekend-only spot offers a French-Highland fusion menu in a beautiful garden setting.
Cositas [$15-$25] – A creative tapas and wine bar in the Loja city center that reimagines local street food in a modern, small-plate format.
Inmortal [$20-$35] – A craft brewery and kitchen in Cuenca that focuses on pairing bold, modern gastropub food with locally brewed ales.
El Oasis [$35-$60] – A highly creative vegan tasting-menu experience in Cuenca that surprises even meat-eaters with its innovative use of Highland flora.
Casas del Árbol [$40-$70] – An upscale dining room in a boutique hotel in Cuenca offering panoramic views and a highly refined menu of “New Andean” cuisine.
La Petit Maison [$40-$70] – A sophisticated French-inspired restaurant in Cuenca’s historic zone that uses local highland butter, cream, and meats to recreate Parisian classics.
El Refugio [$50-$80] – Located near the entrance of Cajas National Park, this high-end lodge offers gourmet dining centered around cold-water trout and organic mountain herbs.
Grand Victoria Dining Room [$40-$60] – The premier fine dining venue in Loja, located within the city’s most prestigious hotel, offering a formal white-tablecloth experience.
Itza [$50-$90] – A contemporary fine-dining space in Cuenca that focuses on a sensory tasting menu highlighting the biodiversity of the Southern Highlands.
Mercado 10 de Agosto [$5-$15] – Not a single restaurant, but a vibrant Cuenca market where you can find the city’s best “Hornado” (roast pig) stalls in a chaotic, authentic setting.
Jodoco Belgian Brew [$15-$30] – Located in Cuenca’s San Sebastian plaza, this spot combines Belgian brewing traditions with hearty Highland stews and sausages.
La Cilantrana [$15-$25] – A unique fusion spot in Loja that blends Peruvian and Southern Ecuadorian flavors, focusing on citrus-heavy marinades.
Cafe Santorino [$15-$30] – An artistic, bohemian cafe in Cuenca’s Remigio Crespo area known for its film screenings, live music, and excellent Mediterranean-Andean fusion.
Kolo [$15-$25] – A trendy rooftop bakery and restaurant in Cuenca’s Calle Larga known for its sourdough breads and creative breakfast bowls.
Thai Connection [$20-$35] – A surprisingly authentic Thai spot in Cuenca that uses local mountain spices to replicate the heat and depth of Southeast Asian cuisine.
Golden Prague [$20-$35] – A massive Czech brewery in Cuenca offering traditional European beer and heavy, meat-centric dishes that suit the chilly Highland nights.
Zazu Loja [$30-$50] – A sophisticated sister-branch of the famous Quito restaurant, offering high-concept seafood and meat dishes in the heart of Loja.
Namaste [$15-$25] – A peaceful vegetarian restaurant in Cuenca’s center offering Indian-inspired dishes made with fresh, organic local vegetables.
Inka Bar [$15-$30] – A lively spot overlooking the Tomebamba River in Cuenca, famous for its international menu and being a primary gathering place for the local arts community.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
The Wine Bar: Located in the heart of Cuenca’s historic center, this elegant spot specializes in curated wine flights and artisanal cocktails, set within a beautifully restored colonial courtyard.
La Guarida: Found in the west side of Cuenca, this cultural hub offers film screenings paired with experimental cocktails that use local Andean fruits and herbs.
Negroni: A chic rooftop destination in Cuenca’s downtown area, offering a cosmopolitan vibe and a signature list of bitters and gin-based drinks with views of the cathedral domes.
Goza Espresso Bar: Situated on the lively Calle Larga in Cuenca, this transition spot serves excellent coffee by day and transforms into a bustling cocktail terrace by night.
The Muse Art & Cocktails: Tucked away in Cuenca’s El Barranco area, this bar features walls adorned with local art and a menu of creative drinks inspired by famous painters.
Selina Rooftop: Located overlooking the Tomebamba River in Cuenca, this trendy spot is the go-to for travelers looking for craft cocktails and a bohemian, international atmosphere.
Jodoco Belgian Brew: While famous for its beer, this Plaza San Sebastián staple in Cuenca offers a refined selection of spirits and a cozy, European-pub ambiance.
San Sebas Café: A neighborhood favorite in Cuenca’s San Sebastián district, known for its intimate patio and “garden-to-glass” cocktails using fresh botanicals.
La Reserva: A hidden gem in Cuenca near the University district, this bar focuses on small-batch Ecuadorian spirits and a minimalist, industrial-chic interior.
Zazu: Located in the newer commercial district of Cuenca, this upscale lounge offers a high-end mixology experience with professional bartenders and rare imports.
Casa de la Música Lounge: Situated in the city center of Loja, this bar honors the city’s musical heritage with live acoustic sets and classic cocktails in a sophisticated setting.
Carbonero Cocktail Bar: Found in the heart of Loja near the central park, it is famous for its creative use of caña (cane spirit) and its vibrant, youthful energy.
Cervecería La Abadía: Located in Loja’s historic corridor, this spot offers a rustic, wooden-clad environment perfect for enjoying craft spirits and local brews.
Piedra Blanca: A scenic bar located on the outskirts of Loja, offering panoramic views of the highland mountains and a menu of warming, spiced cocktails.
The Red Pub: A classic English-style pub in downtown Loja that serves as the primary meeting point for locals seeking international spirits and a relaxed vibe.
Golden Prague Pub & Club: Located in the modern sector of Cuenca, this massive venue combines a microbrewery with a high-tech dance floor featuring international DJs and light shows.
Bierhaus: A staple of Cuenca’s nightlife on Calle Larga, this club is famous for its alternative rock nights and high-energy crowd.
La Chichería: Situated in a historic building in Cuenca, this venue offers a modern twist on traditional Andean “chicha” culture, turning into a dance club with tropical and Latin beats at night.
Indigo: A stylish nightclub in Cuenca’s entertainment district known for its sleek VIP areas and a music policy focusing on house and electronic dance music.
Zone Club: Located near the Remigio Crespo Avenue in Cuenca, this is a top spot for reggaeton and chart-topping hits, featuring frequent themed parties.
Nuvó: One of Cuenca’s most exclusive clubs, offering a “see-and-be-seen” atmosphere with premium bottle service and a mix of Latin pop and electronic music.
Punto de Encuentro: A popular Loja nightclub located near the river, known for its massive dance floor and live tropical orchestras that keep the party going until dawn.
Discoteca Karma: Situated in the nightlife hub of Loja, this club offers a modern light system and a playlist dominated by the latest urban and Latin hits.
X-Level: A high-energy venue in central Loja that attracts a younger crowd with its frequent DJ battles and “open bar” special event nights.
La Estación: Located in a converted space near the old Loja outskirts, this club offers a mix of crossover music and live performances, making it a staple of the Southern Highlands’ weekend scene.