JUJUY & THE QUEBRADA DE HUMAHUACA
Jujuy, in Argentina’s northwest, is a land of vivid, monumental landscapes and profound indigenous culture. It holds the spectacular Quebrada de Humahuaca, a UNESCO World Heritage valley of towering, rainbow-hcolored mountains.
This region offers a journey through ancient history, where traditions from the pre-Inca era thrive. It is a stunning fusion of high-altitude desert beauty, traditional adobe towns, and vibrant folk music and rituals.
Most Popular Attractions
Quebrada de Humahuaca (The Heart of the Valley)
Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colours): The iconic, multi-hued mountain formation dominating the village of Purmamarca, best viewed at sunrise.
Pucará de Tilcara: A pre-Inca fortress and archaeological site on a hill overlooking Tilcara, offering insight into the region’s ancient past.
Monumento a los Héroes de la Independencia (Humahuaca Monument): A grand monument and staircase in Humahuaca, honouring the indigenous and local heroes of Argentina’s independence.
Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) (Tilcara): A dramatic canyon with waterfalls accessible by a scenic hike from Tilcara.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Purmamarca): A simple, charming 17th-century adobe church in the main square of Purmamarca.
Paseo de los Colorados (Purmamarca): A scenic 3 km loop hike or drive behind the town, offering different perspectives of the colourful hills.
Peña de Tilcara: Experience a traditional peña (folk music gathering) to hear authentic Argentine folklore music, including carnavalito and saya.
Museo Arqueológico Dr. Eduardo Casanova (Tilcara): A museum with an extensive collection of archaeological finds from the Pucará and the region.
Feria Artesanal de Purmamarca: A daily craft market in the main square selling textiles, ceramics, and local crafts.
Iglesia de Candelaria y San Antonio (Humahuaca): A beautiful colonial church with a notable articulated clock that reveals the image of San Francisco Solano at noon.
High-Altitude & Remote Marvels
Serranía del Hornocal (The Fourteen-Colour Mountain): A massive limestone formation near Humahuaca with stunning, sharp, V-shaped strata, best viewed mid-day for maximum colour.
Salinas Grandes: A massive, blindingly white salt flat straddling the border of Jujuy and Salta provinces, offering incredible photographic opportunities.
Cuesta de Lipán: The spectacular winding mountain road connecting Purmamarca to the Salinas Grandes, featuring dramatic switchbacks and high-altitude vistas.
Abra Pampa: A high-altitude town, known as the “Siberia Argentina,” and a base for exploring the Puna (high plateau) region.
Yavi: A remote village near the Bolivian border, featuring the beautiful 17th-century Capilla de San Francisco.
Laguna de los Pozuelos: A high-altitude lagoon and a national natural monument, essential for birdwatching, particularly flamingos and other aquatic species.
San Salvador de Jujuy (The Capital)
Casa de Gobierno (Government House): The elegant provincial government building where Argentina’s first national flag, blessed by Manuel Belgrano, is housed and displayed in the Salón de la Bandera.
Catedral Basílica: A beautifully preserved 18th-century cathedral featuring a spectacular gilded cedar wood pulpit carved by indigenous artists.
Mercado Central: The bustling central market, a great place to sample local delicacies and observe daily life.
Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco: A striking pink and white church and convent known for its colonial architecture.
Museo Histórico Policial: A museum detailing the history of the police force in the province, offering a different perspective on local history.
Southern Jujuy & Yungas (Green Zones)
Termas de Reyes: Hot springs located in a mountain valley near the capital, offering relaxation and therapeutic waters.
Parque Nacional Calilegua: A national park protecting the cloud forests (Yungas) of the province, perfect for hiking and spotting diverse wildlife.
San Francisco Valley (Valle Grande): A lesser-visited area offering lush, green, subtropical landscapes contrasting sharply with the Quebrada.
El Carmen: A town known for its agricultural produce and as a gateway to the southern valleys.
Activities & Experiences
Marvel at the Hill of Seven Colors (Cerro de los Siete Colores): Visit Purmamarca to witness the breathtaking geological formation at different times of day (dawn is highly recommended for the best light).
Hike the Painter’s Palette (Paleta del Pintor): Explore Maimará to appreciate the vivid, striated colors of this mountain range, best viewed from the local vineyard viewpoint.
Visit the Pucará de Tilcara: Explore the partially reconstructed pre-Inca fortress perched on a hill overlooking the town of Tilcara, offering a glimpse into the region’s ancient history.
Drive the Cuesta de Lipán to the Salinas Grandes: Take the stunning, winding mountain road (Route 52) up to the high-altitude salt flats, a truly mesmerizing, stark white landscape.
Immerse Yourself in the Carnival of Humahuaca: If visiting in February/March, experience the famously wild, culturally rich, and vibrant celebration of Carnaval, involving traditional rituals and music.
Explore the Canyon of the Shells (Garganta del Diablo): Hike or take a guided tour into this dramatic, narrow canyon near Tilcara, a popular spot for its raw natural beauty.
Attend a Peña Folklórica: Experience an evening of live, traditional folk music (folklore) and dancing (chacarera, zamba) at a local venue, especially lively in Tilcara.
Shop for Local Textiles and Crafts: Wander the artisan markets in Purmamarca and Humahuaca for hand-woven llama and alpaca wool items, ceramics, and unique regional souvenirs.
Hike to the Mirador de Hornocal (The 14-Colored Mountain): Drive or take a guided 4×4 tour to the high viewpoint overlooking this spectacular, serrated mountain of incredible colors, best seen in the late afternoon.
Sample High-Altitude Andean Cuisine: Try local specialties like empanadas salteñas, locro (a hearty stew), tamales, and queso de cabra (goat cheese).
Take a Day Trip to Iruya (Salta Province): Although technically in Salta, this remote village is often accessed via Humahuaca, offering a stunning drive and an incredibly preserved Andean way of life.
Explore the Town of Humahuaca: Visit the central square, see the Monument to the Heroes of the Independence, and witness the moving mechanism of the San Francisco Solano clock tower.
Local Tips & Transport
Public Transport is Reliable: Long-distance buses connect the capital, San Salvador de Jujuy, with Buenos Aires and other major cities. Within the Quebrada, frequent, economical local buses (colectivos) connect the main towns (Purmamarca, Tilcara, Humahuaca) on Route 9.
Rental Car for Flexibility: While buses cover the main route, a rental car provides the freedom to explore side roads, like the one to Iruya (though a 4×4 or high-clearance vehicle is recommended) or to explore the remote corners of the Puna (high desert plateau).
Private Taxis/Remises: For locations slightly off the main route or where public transport is sparse (like the access to Hornocal or Salinas Grandes), fixed-fare remises (private taxis) or shared taxis are common and can be arranged through your accommodation.
Walking is Best in Town: The towns of Purmamarca, Tilcara, and Humahuaca are small and easily explored on foot.
Altitude Sickness (Soroche): The Quebrada is high-altitude, and the Salinas Grandes/Hornocal are even higher (up to $4,350 \text{ meters}$). Go slow, drink plenty of water, and consider chewing coca leaves or drinking coca tea (mate de coca)—a local, traditional remedy. Avoid strenuous activity on your first day.
Pace Your Sightseeing: Due to the altitude, plan to spend a minimum of two to three days in the region to acclimatize and avoid rushing between sights. Tilcara is often recommended as the base.
Respect Indigenous Culture: The region has a strong and living indigenous tradition. Always ask permission before taking photos of people, respect their ceremonies and sites, and be mindful of local customs.
Dining Times: Mealtimes are typically later than in Europe, similar to the rest of Argentina. Lunch is around 1 PM – 3 PM and dinner around 9 PM – 11 PM. Many smaller eateries close between lunch and dinner.
Climate & Clothing: The sun is very intense at this altitude. Bring high-SPF sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. Temperatures can vary dramatically in a single day—pack layers (light shirts for the day, warm sweaters/jackets for the mornings, evenings, and high mountain passes).
Hidden Gems:
- Posta de Hornillos: A historic relay station near Maimará used during the wars of independence; a fascinating and quiet museum.
- Uquía’s Church: See the famous Angeles Arcabuceros (Angels with Arquebuses), a series of paintings from the Cuzco School of the 17th and 18th centuries, in the small town of Uquía.
- Las Señoritas: A less-visited geological site near Tumbaya with unique reddish rock formations reminiscent of giant standing figures.
- Arturo’s: An unassuming spot in Tilcara that offers superb, authentic locro and empanadas.
Top Restaurants
El Nuevo Progreso 1917 [$20-$40] – Considered one of the strongest gastronomic spots in Tilcara, this restaurant specializes in elevated regional food, with highlights including llama steak, purple flour tamales, and an extensive list of regional wines.
Aisito [$15-$25] – Nestled near the main square in Humahuaca, this delightful spot captures the local culture with its generous and flavorful dishes like llama stew and lomo Aisito, often enjoyed with live traditional music.
La Peña de Fortunato [$15-$25] – An authentic culinary gem in Humahuaca offering traditional meals and exceptional hospitality, particularly famous for its delicious goat (cabrito) dishes and the owner’s presentation of native music and storytelling.
Los Morteros [$15-$30] – Located in Purmamarca, this restaurant stands out for its excellent service and commitment to very local, traditional dishes served in a rustic yet delicate setting that mirrors the geography of the region.
Pachamanka Café & Restó [$10-$20] – A conveniently located spot in Humahuaca where you can recharge with delicious and complete meals for lunch, brunch, snack, or dinner, offering excellent versions of typical Jujuy dishes.
Manos Jujeñas [$15-$25] – Recommended for a truly local experience in San Salvador de Jujuy, this restaurant is decorated with native artifacts and ponchos, specializing in authentic Northwestern cuisine like locro and spicy tongue.
K’allapurca [$10-$20] – A budget-friendly spot in Humahuaca offering simple, well-presented Andean fare, including lamb stew and a fixed menu, perfect for a quick and authentic lunch experience.
Parador El Chango [$15-$25] – A hidden gem in picturesque Humahuaca that features authentic Argentine cuisine crafted from local ingredients, where you should be sure to try the local specialty, humita.
Restaurante Tejerina [$15-$25] – A reliable spot in Humahuaca where you can savor traditional Argentinian flavors and regional dishes in a comfortable, local setting.
La Vaca Estudiosa [$15-$25] – A highly-regarded establishment in Humahuaca that blends traditional Argentine flavors with modern culinary artistry, offering a refined taste of the region.
Lo de Chari [$10-$20] – Found in the charming town of Uquía, this top-rated restaurant is known for its delightful local cuisine, warm hospitality, and focus on authentic Jujuy flavors.
Restaurante La Cacharpaya [$15-$25] – A well-known venue in Humahuaca that provides a great atmosphere for experiencing authentic Argentine cuisine and local traditions.
Pinocho Restaurante [$15-$25] – A classic, reliable restaurant in Humahuaca where you can enjoy hearty, authentic Argentine meals that reflect the culinary history of the region.
Casa Mocha [$20-$35] – Located outside the main towns, this spot is worth the visit for its commitment to Jujuy’s finest cheeses and wines, offering an authentic taste of local farm-to-table products.
Lo de Tere – COCINA & PASTELERÍA ANDINA [$10-$20] – Found in Purmamarca, this café/restaurant offers exquisite Andean cuisine and pastry, with every dish celebrating the local flavors and traditions of the region.
Inkillay [$40-$70] – Located just a short drive off RN 9 in Humahuaca, this impressive, wine-driven restaurant is raising the dining game in the Quebrada, offering a four-course tasting menu that pairs regional ancestral cooking with haute cuisine.
Casa de Adobe [$25-$45] – Found slightly outside the main village in Purmamarca, this spot offers a more contemporary setting and is known for putting a creative twist on classic regional dishes, making for a refined dining experience.
Flor del Pago [$30-$50] – A highly-regarded spot in the Lozano area, about 20 minutes from San Salvador de Jujuy, offering a welcome addition of Italian cuisine and solid homemade pasta in a stunning colonial mansion setting.
Restaurante El Manantial del Silencio [$40-$70] – Part of a beautiful boutique hotel in Purmamarca, this restaurant offers an elevated, award-winning menu that blends sophisticated techniques with Andean ingredients, set in a peaceful Spanish Colonial-style property.
Yacón [$20-$40] – Located in Tilcara, this restaurant is known for its focus on using indigenous ingredients in creative ways, offering a fresher, more modern interpretation of the region’s classic flavors.
Ayelen [$25-$45] – Situated in the wider Jujuy region, this newer favorite is praised for its creative twists on traditional Argentine cuisine, offering a unique take on classic dishes like locro.
Killa Resto Bar [$15-$30] – A great spot in Tilcara where you can experience the rich flavors of Argentinian cuisine, known for its lively ambiance and offering a mix of regional and contemporary dishes.
Dario’s Cocina de Autor [$30-$50] – While the name suggests fine dining, this spot in Tilcara focuses on a chef’s unique, creative take on traditional flavors, making it a great choice for those seeking inventive regional food.
Julieta Limon y Sal [$20-$35] – A well-reviewed option in the Humahuaca area that offers fresh and tasty regional dishes with a subtle, modern presentation, popular for its bright flavors.
Qori Cocina de Altura [$25-$45] – An establishment in the Tilcara area focusing on “high-altitude cuisine,” which typically means a creative, refined approach to traditional Andean ingredients like quinoa and Andean potatoes.
Peña Cultural de La Herrería [$20-$35] – While primarily a cultural space in Tilcara, this venue offers a contemporary menu that goes beyond simple peña fare, often featuring interesting uses of local ingredients.
Pacha Mama [$20-$35] – A restaurant in Tilcara that focuses on contemporary presentation and thoughtful use of ingredients, offering a modern dining experience with deep regional roots.
Viracocha Restaurante [$20-$35] – Situated in the capital, San Salvador de Jujuy, this spot has a relaxed atmosphere and a menu featuring Northwestern cuisine, with llama or quinoa dishes recommended as a modern take on tradition.
Restaurante La Casona de Calderón [$30-$50] – Although in a historic building in the wider region, the food here offers a mix of traditional and refined, modern cuisine, providing an elevated experience.
Tierra Colorada [$25-$45] – A restaurant in Purmamarca that aims for an upscale feel, utilizing the best of local produce to create a sophisticated menu of regional and international dishes.
La Quebrada [$20-$40] – A spot in Tilcara known for its comfortable setting and its commitment to reinterpreting the traditional flavors of the Quebrada with modern techniques.
Mercado Municipal de Tilcara [$5-$15] – Not a single restaurant, but the main market in Tilcara is the best spot for street food and an authentic taste of local life, with stalls selling fresh empanadas, tamales, and humitas made with local produce.
Las Mejores Empanadas [$5-$15] – Located in Humahuaca, this simple spot is dedicated to serving what many locals consider the best empanadas in the area, a must-try for this regional specialty.
La Cantina [$10-$20] – A no-frills, highly authentic local bar, often found in smaller towns like Tilcara or Humahuaca, which serves very simple, homemade regional food and is frequented by locals.
Warmi [$15-$25] – An excellent small business, likely in the Tilcara or Purmamarca area, that sources its materials from female campesina (farmer) producers, ensuring an authentic and supportive culinary experience.
La Pena del Conejo [$10-$20] – This restaurant, located in the mountain village of Purmamarca, specializes in empanadas de choclo (sweet corn empanadas), which are considered some of the best in the entire country.
El Rincon Gaucho [$20-$40] – A good choice in the wider Jujuy region if you are also craving Argentinian steak (asado), as the meat is cooked over an open fire and served with a regional flair.
Emporio La Cava [$15-$25] – Located in the wider Jujuy region, this spot is another excellent option for empanadas de choclo and also serves classic Argentinian dishes like asado and locro criollo.
Pican Burgers [$10-$20] – A great alternative spot in Humahuaca that offers gourmet burgers with a local twist, blending fast-food convenience with regional ingredients and flavors.
La Posta de Hornillos [$20-$35] – Situated near the Posta de Hornillos historical site, this unique restaurant focuses on historical regional recipes, offering a glimpse into the colonial-era cuisine of the Quebrada.
La Vieja Estación [$15-$25] – Located in the wider Jujuy area, this restaurant is known as a famous peña (restaurant with live folk music), offering a lively cultural experience with traditional dining.
Las Terrazas (Hotel Las Terrazas) [$30-$50] – The restaurant at this boutique hotel in Tilcara offers dining with panoramic valley views, focusing on a menu that highlights the region’s best ingredients in a beautiful, natural setting.
Hotel Huacalera Restaurant [$30-$50] – Situated in the small, historic town of Huacalera near Humahuaca, this hotel restaurant offers an upscale dining experience with a focus on regional ingredients and a stunning setting.
Los Puestos Restaurante [$20-$35] – A highly-rated spot in Tilcara that promises authentic Argentine flavors with a focus on local cuisine, all while enjoying breathtaking mountain views.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
Pena de Carlitos (Tilcara): A legendary and authentic peña (folk music venue) in the heart of Tilcara. While not a traditional cocktail bar, it’s the absolute essence of Quebrada nightlife, offering local drinks, a vibrant atmosphere, and non-stop live music.
Wiphala Bar Cultural (Tilcara): Located near the main square in Tilcara, this is a cultural bar with a relaxed atmosphere that often hosts live music and serves local beers, wine, and simple mixed drinks in a rustic, artistic setting.
Casa de la Chola (Tilcara): Tucked away in Tilcara, this is a cozy, bohemian spot popular for its artistic vibe, local food, and a selection of regional wines and spirits, perfect for a quieter evening.
El Patio de Lucas (Tilcara): A bar/restaurant in Tilcara known for its beautiful patio, excellent regional cuisine, and a wide array of Salta and Jujuy wines, offering a more upscale, relaxed drinking experience.
Uku Pacha (Tilcara): A laid-back and popular bar in Tilcara that offers a range of local and commercial drinks, attracting a mixed crowd of travelers and locals looking for a relaxed spot to chat.
Cerveza Artesanal La Capitana (Humahuaca): Found in the historic town of Humahuaca, this spot focuses on artisanal craft beer from the region, offering a nice change of pace from traditional spirits.
La Salamanca Bar (San Salvador de Jujuy): Situated in the capital city, this bar is known for its extensive menu of picadas (local charcuterie/cheese boards), local craft beers, and a more urban, contemporary setting than the Quebrada.
Stanley Rock Bar (San Salvador de Jujuy): A popular venue in San Salvador de Jujuy for live rock music and a more modern bar experience, offering a range of commercial drinks and shots.
Vara Bar & Restó (San Salvador de Jujuy): Located in the capital, this bar offers a sleek, modern ambiance, a more creative cocktail menu, and is a favorite for pre-dinner and after-work drinks.
Posta de Hornillos (Maimará): While primarily a historical site and restaurant just outside Purmamarca, their simple bar service allows guests to enjoy a glass of local high-altitude wine against the stunning backdrop of the “Paleta del Pintor” hills.
Kuntur Bar (Purmamarca): A small, low-key bar in the postcard-perfect village of Purmamarca, providing a cozy setting for a late-night drink after a day of sightseeing.
La Covacha de la Pachamama (Purmamarca): This unique spot in Purmamarca combines a local shop with a small area for drinks and snacks, perfect for experiencing the local culture in a very relaxed, intimate way.
Chosca (San Salvador de Jujuy): Located in the capital, this spot is known for its wide selection of gins and craft beers, appealing to a clientele looking for more sophisticated mixed drinks.
Café Bar Xibi Xibi (San Salvador de Jujuy): Offering riverside views in the capital, this bar is a great place for a casual afternoon drink or a fernet con coca in a lively setting.
La Marmita (Tilcara): A bar/restaurant in Tilcara that is popular with backpackers, offering cheap drinks, good local food, and a friendly, communal atmosphere.