JERASH (ANCIENT GERASA)
Jerash is one of the best-preserved Roman cities outside of Italy, offering an unparalleled glimpse into ancient life. It is a jewel of the Middle East, showcasing monumental architecture in a captivating Jordanian setting.
This site was a wealthy city of the Decapolis, famed for its colonnaded streets, temples, and theaters. Its remarkably intact ruins tell the powerful story of Greco-Roman life in the Levant.
Most Popular Attractions
The Decapolis City Core:
Hadrian’s Arch: A monumental triumphal arch built to honor the visit of Emperor Hadrian in AD 129.
Hippodrome: The former stadium, once used for chariot races and gladiatorial contests, located just beside Hadrian’s Arch.
South Gate: The main entrance to the walled city, beautifully preserved and leading into the Oval Forum.
Oval Forum (The Forum): A unique, asymmetrical public space surrounded by a stunning ionic colonnade.
Cardo Maximus: The main colonnaded street, running nearly 800 meters through the city center, lined with ancient shops and structures.
Temple of Zeus: A grand temple dominating the southern part of the city, sitting atop a hill with commanding views.
South Theater: A large, well-preserved theater with excellent acoustics, capable of holding up to 3,000 spectators.
Nymphaeum: An ornate public fountain, once decorated with marble and a large dome, dedicated to the water nymphs.
Propylaeum of the Artemis Temple: A majestic, elaborate gateway leading up to the great Temple of Artemis.
Temple of Artemis: Dedicated to the patron goddess of the city, this was one of the most important religious structures.
North Gate: The northern entrance to the city, marking the end of the main Cardo Maximus.
North Theater: A smaller theater primarily used for city council meetings and performances, known for its two-tiered stage.
Byzantine & Religious Sites:
Cathedral of Jerash: The largest known church in the city, built in the 4th century over the remains of a former Roman temple.
Church of St. Theodore: A beautiful basilica dating to the 6th century, famous for its elaborate mosaics in the courtyard.
Synagogue Church: A site containing impressive floor mosaics, including one depicting Noah’s Ark, later converted into a church.
The Complex of Churches: A cluster of adjacent 6th-century basilicas (St. George, St. John the Baptist, St. Cosmos and Damian) showcasing impressive mosaic floors.
Other Civic & Public Structures:
Macellum (Marketplace): The circular central market area, situated near the intersection of the Cardo and the South Decumanus.
West Baths: Extensive remains of the large public bath complex, reflecting the city’s sophisticated urban life.
Decumanus (South): A secondary colonnaded street, running perpendicular to the Cardo Maximus.
Triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus: Remains of a smaller arch located on the South Decumanus.
Museum of Jerash: Located on-site, it displays artifacts recovered from the excavations, providing historical context to the ruins.
Public Latrines: Well-preserved communal toilets, demonstrating the high level of Roman sanitation engineering.
Activities & Experiences
Walk the Cardo Maximus: Stroll down the mile-long colonnaded main street of the ancient city, imagining life in Roman times. Note the ruts left by chariot wheels in the stone.
Witness the Roman Army & Chariot Race: Attend the daily reenactment show, The Roman Army and Chariot Race (R.A.C.E.), held in the Hippodrome, which brings Roman history vividly to life.
Explore Hadrian’s Arch: Marvel at the grand triumphal arch constructed to honor the visit of Emperor Hadrian in the winter of 129–130 AD.
Climb to the Temple of Artemis: Ascend the steps to the best-preserved temple in the complex, dedicated to the patron goddess of the city. Test the “shaking column” phenomenon.
Attend a Festival Performance: If visiting in July or August, experience the Jerash Festival for Culture and Arts, where the ancient theaters host music, dance, and drama.
Visit the Jerash Archaeological Museum: Located within the site, explore the collection of artifacts, pottery, statues, and coins discovered during the excavations of Gerasa.
Discover the South Theater: Take a seat in the magnificent South Theater and test its famous acoustics from the central seating area. It still hosts large performances today.
Wander through the Oval Forum: Explore the unique, elliptical-shaped public piazza (plaza), a rare architectural feature in Roman cities.
Find the Nymphaeum: Locate the ruins of the magnificent ornamental fountain, which once supplied the city with fresh water.
Take a Guided Tour: Hire a local, officially licensed guide at the entrance to fully understand the historical significance of the ruins and the daily life of ancient Gerasa.
Hike to the Byzantine Churches: Seek out the ruins of the many Byzantine churches near the West Gate, known for their well-preserved mosaic floors.
Enjoy a Traditional Jordanian Meal: Dine at one of the local restaurants in modern Jerash, sampling staples like Mansaf (Jordan’s national dish) or fresh local Zarb (meat and rice cooked underground).
Local Tips & Transport
Public Transport (JETT/Local Bus): Jerash is easily accessible from Amman, roughly a 45-minute to one-hour drive. The most affordable option is a local bus or a slightly more comfortable JETT bus from the North Terminal (Tabarbour).
Taxis/Ride-Sharing: Taxis and ride-sharing services (like Uber or Careem) are readily available in Amman and can be hired for a return trip, often including a waiting period while you explore the site. Negotiate the fare beforehand if using a traditional taxi.
Rental Car: A rental car provides maximum flexibility for combining Jerash with a visit to Ajloun Castle or Umm Qais. Parking is available near the main entrance to the archaeological park.
On-Site Movement: The Gerasa site is very large. Walking is the only way to explore the ruins, so wear comfortable shoes. Consider starting at the South Gate (near Hadrian’s Arch) and walking the Cardo Maximus toward the North Gate, or vice-versa.
Dress Code: While modern Jerash is relaxed, it is respectful to dress modestly, especially for women. Wear clothing that covers the shoulders and knees when in town or interacting with locals.
Beat the Heat and Crowds: Jerash can get very hot and crowded, particularly in the spring and summer. Arrive when the site opens (usually 8:00 AM) to enjoy the ruins in cooler temperatures and with fewer people.
Water and Shade: There is very little shade within the main archaeological park. Bring a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of water—especially during the midday sun. Sunscreen is essential.
Haggling and Souvenirs: You may be approached by vendors selling souvenirs, particularly near the main gates. A friendly “no, thank you” (La Shukran) is usually sufficient. If you choose to buy, be prepared to politely haggle.
Archaeological Sensitivity: This is an active archaeological site. Do not climb on the ancient structures, and respect all barriers and signage. Report any concerns to the site staff.
The Power of the Guide: The history of Gerasa is incredibly rich and complex. While you can tour independently, hiring one of the official, licensed guides at the entrance will significantly deepen your appreciation of the ruins.
Hidden Gems:
- The Triumphal Arches of the Decumanus: Look for the two smaller triumphal arches that mark the junction of the main streets (Cardo Maximus and Decumanus) near the North Theater.
- The Cathedral/Church of St. Theodore: While often missed, the ruins of this structure contain beautiful columns and a cistern.
- Jerash Resthouse: Near the South Theater, this is a good spot for a break, a drink, and elevated views over the site.
Top Restaurants
Jerash Rest House [$15-$30] – Located right next to the archaeological site, this popular spot offers traditional Arabic barbecue (BBQ) and other Jordanian dishes, often in a relaxed setting with a view of the ruins.
Abu Ahmed Restaurant [$10-$20] – A local hidden gem offering authentic Middle Eastern flavors and known for its serene, garden-like seating area, providing a quiet escape from the bustle.
Al-Khayyam Restaurant [$15-$25] – Highly recommended for a classic taste of Jordanian cuisine, featuring essential dishes like Mansaf (lamb in yogurt sauce) and grilled kebabs in a warm, inviting atmosphere.
مطاعم طواحين الجبل (Mountain Mills Restaurant & Cafe) [$15-$25] – Known for consistently offering authentic Arabic cuisine, often with an innovative twist, and located in a scenic setting outside the main city center.
مطعم ريف المزرعه (Reef Al-Mazra’a Restaurant) [$15-$25] – Nestled in the picturesque landscapes surrounding Jerash, this restaurant offers a delightful dining experience with authentic Jordanian cuisine.
Old Roman Restaurant [$15-$25] – Offers savory, authentic flavors, allowing you to immerse yourself in the ancient beauty of Jerash’s archaeological site as you dine.
Alkyam alarabi [$10-$20] – A spot for authentic Jordanian cuisine in a warm and welcoming atmosphere, focused on traditional preparations.
Lolot Alrawada Restaurant [$10-$20] – Known for authentic Jordanian cuisine, where every meal is said to tell a story of the region’s rich culinary heritage.
Qasr Alsultan Restaurant [$15-$25] – Discover authentic Jordanian flavors here, a great place to experience the traditional taste of the region.
Zahrat Ballkis Mandi [$10-$20] – Experience authentic Middle Eastern cuisine, specializing in Mandi, a traditional dish of meat and rice.
Beit Al-Asilat [$10-$20] – A restaurant focused on authentic Jordanian cuisine, with every dish reflecting the rich cultural heritage and exceptional flavors.
Abo yahya restaurant مطعم ابو يحيى [$10-$20] – Known for culinary excellence and authentic Jordanian cuisine in a traditional setting.
Al Rawda restaurant [$10-$20] – Experience authentic Jordanian cuisine in a cozy setting, perfect for a traditional and comforting meal.
Given the conservative nature of the local food scene, truly “modern and creative” restaurants with avant-garde approaches are scarce in Jerash, but some places offer a contemporary flair within the Middle Eastern framework:
Cello cafè & restaurant [$15-$30] – While rooted in traditional flavors, this spot aims to combine local tastes with modern presentation and a cafe atmosphere.
Artemis Restaurant – مطعم ارتيمس السياحي [$20-$35] – Known for its high quality and refined presentation of classic Arabic grill dishes, leaning towards a slightly more polished experience.
Restaurants and Gardens Green Valley [$25-$40] – Offers a more upscale presentation and ambiance for traditional Jordanian cuisine, focusing on fresh ingredients and diverse plating, elevating the classic experience.
مطاعم طواحين الجبل (Mountain Mills Restaurant & Cafe) [$20-$35] – Often praised for infusing authentic Arabic cuisine with unique and innovative twists, setting it apart from more standard traditional venues.
Lebanese House [$30-$50] – With its diverse, high-quality menu and excellent service in a pleasant setting, it is one of the more high-end options for Levantine cuisine in the area.
Nowwara [$30-$50] – The combination of its beautiful location between mountains and river, high-quality Jordanian food, and overall ambiance places it in the higher-end category for the region.
Restaurants and Gardens Green Valley [$35-$60] – A premier dining experience in the area due to its beautiful garden setting, diverse menu, and focus on providing a polished, high-quality meal.
مطعم وشلالات قصر الماس restuarant QserALmas [$30-$50] – Known for its exquisite dining experience set against stunning waterfalls, which elevates the ambiance to a higher-end category.
Artemis Restaurant – مطعم ارتيمس السياحي [$30-$50] – The convenience to the ruins, lovely views, and focus on high-quality grilled meats and traditional dishes make this one of the more popular high-end options for visitors.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
Artemis Restaurant: Located very close to the archaeological site in Jerash, this venue offers a welcoming atmosphere, traditional local and regional dishes, and is one of the established spots that provides a full range of beverages for diners.
Green Valley Restaurants and Gardens: Situated on the Old Amman Road just outside the main town, this spot is known for its beautiful garden setting, which makes it a relaxing place to enjoy a drink in the evenings. It focuses on Jordanian cuisine but is a destination for socializing.
Lebanese House / Um Khalil Restaurant: A renowned and established landmark restaurant on Debbin Street in Jerash, it offers a sophisticated ambiance with a diverse menu of food and drinks. It is a long-standing favorite with tourists and locals alike for a high-quality evening out.
Tal Al Rumman: Located on the Jerash Road on the Tal Al Rumman Heights, slightly outside the city center, this venue offers impressive views over the surrounding area, providing a scenic backdrop for an evening drink.
Hadrian’s Gate Hotel Bar: A bar within one of the key hotels in Jerash, offering a convenient and reliable option for travelers looking for a place to relax and enjoy a drink after a day of sightseeing.
Old Roman Restaurant: Close to the Jerash archaeological site, this restaurant has a setting that echoes the area’s history, providing a memorable location for a meal and evening beverages.
Asala Jarash Restaurant: A local restaurant in Jerash that provides a comfortable dining environment and is one of the more popular spots for an evening gathering among residents.
Cardoo Restaurant & Cafe: Found within the Jerash area, this venue offers a cafe-style atmosphere during the day but transitions into a casual evening spot for dining and socializing.
Nowwara Restaurant: Located in Jerash, this venue is known for serving authentic Jordanian cuisine in an enjoyable, relaxed setting suitable for an evening meal with drinks.
Khayl and Layl: Located off the main Jerash highway, this spot offers a more secluded and perhaps destination-based evening experience, popular for those looking for a different atmosphere away from the immediate town center.
Abu Althahab Restaurant: A well-known local dining spot in Jerash that serves as a lively evening venue for traditional food and local beverages.
Al Demashki Restaurant: Found in Jerash, this restaurant provides a comfortable and spacious environment, making it a good choice for a leisurely evening meal and drinks.
Al Tayebat Sea Restaurant & Cafe: This establishment in Jerash offers a mixed dining and cafe experience, providing a relaxed atmosphere for evening enjoyment.
Abu Ahmed Restaurant: A popular local restaurant in Jerash, it offers traditional dishes and an authentic evening atmosphere where travelers can enjoy local hospitality and drinks.
Shamia Grill Restaurant: Located in Jerash, this restaurant specializes in grilled dishes and offers a full beverage service, making it a solid choice for a dinner and drinks outing.