GENOVA
Genova is Italy’s original maritime republic, known as La Superba, where centuries of seafaring history meet stunning palaces and a labyrinthine medieval heart. It is the capital of the Liguria region, nestled between the sea and the dramatic Apennine mountains.
The city combines the gritty authenticity of its vast historic center with the glamour of the Italian Riviera. It is a land of pesto and focaccia, a gateway to picturesque coastal villages, and a treasure trove of UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Most Popular Attractions
Historic Core & Palaces:
Palazzi dei Rolli (Via Garibaldi): A UNESCO World Heritage site comprising a network of grand Renaissance and Baroque palaces, once used for state lodgings.
Palazzo Ducale: The historic seat of the Doges of Genoa, now a major cultural center hosting exhibitions and events.
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo: Genoa’s striking main cathedral, featuring a distinctive black-and-white striped facade and Gothic-Romanesque architecture.
Via Garibaldi (Strade Nuove): The ‘New Streets,’ a spectacular street lined with the most sumptuous Palazzi dei Rolli.
Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace Museum): A magnificent 17th-century palace showcasing sumptuous interiors, a hall of mirrors, and an art collection.
Palazzo San Giorgio: A historic, frescoed building on the waterfront, one of the oldest banks in the world.
Porta Soprana: The impressive, well-preserved medieval gate that once marked the main entrance to the city.
Casa di Cristoforo Colombo: A rebuilt medieval house traditionally held to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus.
Piazza De Ferrari: The city’s main square, linking the old and new parts of the city, famous for its grand fountain and surrounding historic buildings.
Caruggi (Medieval Alleyways): The dense, winding network of narrow streets in the Old Town, packed with historic shops and hidden corners.
Teatro Carlo Felice: Genoa’s principal opera house, a major landmark on Piazza De Ferrari. Porto Antico & Modern Attractions:
Acquario di Genova (Genoa Aquarium): One of the largest aquariums in Europe, a highlight of the renovated Old Port area.
Galata Museo del Mare: The largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean, offering an immersive journey into Genoa’s seafaring past, including a submarine visit.
La Lanterna: The Lighthouse of Genoa, an iconic symbol and one of the world’s oldest standing lighthouses.
Bigo: A panoramic lift in the Porto Antico, designed by Renzo Piano, offering sweeping views of the city and harbor.
Biosfera: A spectacular glass sphere designed by Renzo Piano, housing a small tropical ecosystem with diverse flora and fauna.
Porto Antico (Old Port): The redeveloped harbor area, a lively waterfront space with museums, restaurants, and entertainment.
Coastal Villages & Promenades:
Boccadasse: A picturesque, historic fishing village with colorful houses, a small beach, and seafood restaurants, located in the city’s eastern suburbs.
Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi a Nervi: A spectacular scenic coastal walk carved into the cliffside, connecting the parks and seaside of Nervi.
Camogli: A beautiful fishing village a short train ride away, famous for its tall, colorful buildings and the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.
Portofino: The famous, exclusive resort village known for its picturesque harbor, luxury yachts, and stunning natural setting (easily accessible from Genoa).
Santa Margherita Ligure: An elegant seaside town near Portofino, featuring a lovely harbor and beautiful art nouveau buildings. Viewpoints & Green Spaces:
Spianata Castelletto: A popular panoramic terrace and lookout point, accessible via a historic public elevator, offering the best views over the old town and harbor.
Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno: An architectural masterpiece, renowned for its elaborate funerary sculptures and impressive arcades.
Parco Urbano delle Mura (Walls and Forts): An extensive park in the hills behind the city, featuring the remnants of Genoa’s historic defensive wall system and hilltop forts (accessible by funicular).
Parchi di Nervi: A collection of historic parks and gardens in the Nervi district, home to several art museums and the start of the coastal promenade.
Activities & Experiences
Wander the Caruggi and Discover Hidden Squares: Lose yourself in the Caruggi, Genoa’s labyrinthine network of narrow, medieval alleys. Look for hidden gems like Piazza San Matteo or the tiny artisan shops.
Take a Pesto Making Class: Learn to make Pesto Genovese—Liguria’s most famous sauce—the authentic way, by crushing basil, pine nuts, and cheese with a mortar and pestle. Many local cooking schools offer classes.
Explore the Aquarium of Genoa: Visit the largest aquarium in Italy and one of the largest in Europe, located in the Porto Antico (Old Port) area. It’s an engaging experience for all ages.
Hike the Portofino Promontory: Take a scenic train ride to Camogli or Santa Margherita Ligure and hike through the beautiful Portofino Regional Natural Park, culminating in the stunning village of Portofino.
Go on a Local Seafood Tasting Crawl: Explore the Boccadasse neighborhood, a charming old fishermen’s village on the eastern edge of the city, and sample fresh seafood with a glass of local Ligurian wine.
Visit the Palazzi dei Rolli: Take a walking tour of the Renaissance and Baroque palaces on Via Garibaldi (a UNESCO World Heritage site). Many are now museums or art galleries, showcasing Genoa’s wealthy past.
Take the Ascensore or Funiculars for Panoramic Views: Ride one of the city’s unique public lifts or funiculars, like the Ascensore di Castelletto, for breathtaking panoramic views of the city and the harbor.
Take a Day Trip to the Cinque Terre: While outside the immediate area, the five iconic villages of Cinque Terre are easily reachable by train and are a must-see for their dramatic coastal views and colorful architecture.
Explore the Galata Museo del Mare: Delve into Genoa’s maritime history at this interactive museum, which includes a replica of a 17th-century galley and a submarine you can tour.
Cycle or Walk the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi in Nervi: Enjoy a beautiful coastal walk that winds along the cliffs of the eastern Riviera, offering stunning views of the sea and the coastline.
Local Tips & Transport
Walking is Essential: Genoa’s historic center is a dense maze of alleys and hills. The best way to experience the caruggi and hidden treasures is on foot. Be prepared for steep sections, but they’re often worth it for the views.
Unique Public Transport: The city’s geography means it has an extensive and fascinating network of public elevators (ascensori) and funiculars (funicolari) that connect the lower city center with the upper residential areas. They are part of the public transport system and great for saving your legs!
Public Transport in the City: Genoa has an efficient system of buses, a short metro line, and the aforementioned funiculars and lifts, all managed by AMT.
Bus Network: The most extensive system. You can buy tickets at kiosks, newsstands, or via the AMT app. A single ticket is valid for a long time and for multiple rides on various modes of transport.
Train for the Coast: The most convenient and fastest way to visit the Riviera towns (like Camogli, Santa Margherita, and the Cinque Terre) is by Regional Train (Trenitalia). Stations are centrally located and services are frequent.
From the Airport: The Volabus is a dedicated bus service that runs between the Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA) and the city center, stopping at both the main train stations (Genova Piazza Principe and Genova Brignole).
Dining Times & Aperitivo: Locals typically eat lunch around 1:00 PM to 2:30 PM and dinner around 8:00 PM to 10:00 PM. However, the key is Aperitivo, a pre-dinner ritual (usually 6:30 PM–8:30 PM) where you buy a drink and get access to a generous buffet of snacks or small plates. It’s a great, affordable way to have a light dinner.
Embrace the Caruggi Culture: While the caruggi (alleys) are atmospheric and beautiful, they can feel a little gritty in places, especially at night. It’s generally safe, but common sense and awareness are always advised, particularly in the port areas or late at night.
Beyond Pasta: Ligurian Cuisine: While Italian food is ubiquitous, Ligurian cuisine has its own identity. It’s defined by pesto, focaccia (the Genovese style is oily and salty, perfect for breakfast!), and savory pies like torta pasqualina (a chard and ricotta pie). Don’t leave without trying the local street food: focaccia al formaggio (Recco-style cheese focaccia) or farinata (a thin chickpea flour pancake).
The Concept of Sciacchetrà: When visiting the Riviera, particularly the Cinque Terre, look for Sciacchetrà, a rare and sweet passito wine made from dried grapes. It’s expensive but an authentic and exquisite Ligurian treat.
Hidden Gems:
Mercato Orientale (MOG): An incredible, bustling food market. The ground floor is a traditional market, but the upper floor has been converted into a vibrant food court with local specialties, from fresh pasta to innovative cocktails.
Cimitero Monumentale di Staglieno: While a cemetery may seem unusual, this is a stunning, sprawling site famous for its incredibly elaborate and beautiful marble sculptures and funerary architecture, attracting art and history lovers from around the world.
The Church of San Fruttuoso: A tiny, breathtaking abbey accessible only by boat or a challenging hike near Camogli. The setting in its secluded cove is truly magical.
Via del Campo: A street made famous by the Genoese singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André. It’s a charming street in the old town where you can still feel the artistic and sometimes rebellious spirit of old Genoa.
Language: While English is spoken in tourist hubs like the Porto Antico, many people in the caruggi and smaller Riviera towns may only speak Italian. Learning phrases like Buongiorno (Good day), Grazie (Thank you), and Un bicchiere di Vermentino, per favore (A glass of Vermentino, please) will be greatly appreciated.
Top Restaurants
Sa’ Pesta [$15-$25] – A historic ‘sciamadda’ (a type of traditional eatery) dating to 1889, famous for its excellent farinata (chickpea flatbread baked in a wood oven), savory vegetable pies, and stuffed anchovies.
Trattoria da Maria [$15-$25] – A legendary, no-frills, inexpensive trattoria on a quiet side street in the center, offering staple Ligurian home-style food in a wonderfully chaotic atmosphere.
Antica Osteria di Vico Palla [$20-$30] – Located in the old town for over 400 years, this historic tavern prides itself on ancient Genoese and Ligurian cuisine using fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.
Trattoria dell’Acciughetta [$20-$30] – A popular and lively spot known as a landmark for blue fish and a creative, young take on traditional Ligurian cuisine, located near the Porto Antico.
Trattoria delle Grazie [$20-$30] – An informal, stone-walled restaurant in the old town with a convivial atmosphere, known for excellent pasta with tocco (long-cooked meat sauce) and traditional Ligurian dishes.
Trattoria Ugo [$20-$30] – A central trattoria known for serving some of the best pesto in Genoa (traditionally with potatoes and green beans), as well as classic Genoese dishes like tripe and stuffed cuttlefish.
Cavour 21 [$20-$30] – An old-school, family-run trattoria near the harbor, renowned for its fresh seafood, house-made pesto pasta, and a convivial, local atmosphere.
Trattoria Rosmarino [$25-$35] – Tucked down a pedestrian alley off Piazza De Ferrari, this spot prepares classic Ligurian food with high-quality ingredients in an elegant yet comfortable environment.
Trattoria della Raibetta [$25-$35] – Located in a historic 18th-century building in the caruggi (narrow alleyways), offering simple but detailed traditional Genoese dishes like warm cuttlefish and shrimp.
Ostaia do Castello [$25-$35] – A simple and tasty local eatery near the Castello D’Albertis, offering authentic Genoese cuisine with a simple, pleasant atmosphere.
Trattoria Arvigo [$20-$30] – Located outside the historic center, this traditional trattoria is highly recommended by locals for its excellent minestrone and simple, authentic Ligurian recipes.
Ostaia a Ribotta [$25-$35] – A non-central spot known for simple, traditional Ligurian cooking, including dishes like stoccafisso alla Genovese (stockfish) and fritto misto.
Trattoria Detta Del Bruxaboschi [$25-$40] – Retaining its original rustic features since 1862, this historic trattoria offers classic recipes from the Genoese district in a sturdy stone building.
Voltalacarta [$35-$60] – A cozy, Michelin-recognized restaurant focusing on fresh seafood and creative, extravagant presentations of high-quality Ligurian cuisine.
I Cuochi [$30-$50] – A highly-rated Mediterranean restaurant with a modern, refined take on local flavors, located in the central old town.
Etra [$40-$70] – Located in Piazza De Ferrari, this modern European restaurant offers a stylish setting and creative, high-quality cuisine.
Officina di Cucina [$35-$55] – A gourmet spot in the city center offering sophisticated, creative cuisine that puts a modern twist on local ingredients without being overly expensive.
Ombre Rosse [$35-$55] – Tucked in a medieval house in the old town, this tiny place has a romantic interior and a creative menu that changes daily to reflect seasonal, local produce.
Balandro [$30-$50] – A popular restaurant near the Porto Antico that serves a range of creative seafood dishes and is known for its inventive take on traditional cuisine.
Il Marin [$50-$80] – A fine-dining experience on the top floor of Eataly in the Porto Antico, delivering picture-pretty port views and an innovative seafood menu focused on sustainability.
The Cook [$70-$120] – Led by Michelin-starred chef Ivano Ricchebono, this restaurant in the historic center offers a high-end experience with an elegant, modern revisiting of Ligurian tradition.
Hostaria Ducale [$60-$100] – An elegant, Michelin-starred restaurant near Piazza De Ferrari, serving creative takes on traditional regional cuisine, with a focus on high-quality ingredients.
San Giorgio [$70-$110] – A sophisticated, Michelin-recognized restaurant with a strong sense of professionalism, serving top-quality fish and meat specialties with a distinctly Mediterranean feel.
Lalola de Javi Abascal [$70-$120] – A fine dining experience in the historic center with a focus on traditional Iberian cuisine and a renewed, modern touch. (Note: The search results mention this, but it may be a repeat from your original Andalusian guide).
Isi Ivano Ricchebono Chef [$60-$90] – Another high-quality restaurant associated with the renowned chef, offering refined Italian cuisine.
La Brinca [$40-$70] – Located in Ne (about 40km from Genoa), this acclaimed trattoria is famous for its stuffed lettuces, pesto, and Val Graveglia meat cooked in a wood-fired oven, often considered one of Italy’s best.
Trattoria Oü Settembrin [$30-$50] – Situated in the beautiful countryside outside Genoa, this restaurant, run by the Circella family, maintains Ligurian culinary traditions with love and devotion.
U Giancu [$40-$70] – Located on a hill in Rapallo (near Genoa), this is a quirky and seasonal restaurant with a view-boasting terrace, cooking Ligurian cuisine predominantly with ingredients from its own garden.
Da Ö Vittorio [$40-$70] – A classic joint in Recco (near Genoa), known for its fresh seafood and, most famously, its authentic Focaccia di Recco col Formaggio (a thin, cheese-filled focaccia).
Trattoria da Armando [$30-$50] – Located in Sori (near Genoa), locals recommend this spot for its excellent price/quality ratio, offering delicious fish, pasta, and meat options.
Vittorio al Mare [$50-$90] – An elegant seaside restaurant in the picturesque Boccadasse neighborhood, specializing in fresh seafood in a beautiful location.
Antica Friggitoria Carega [$10-$20] – A legendary institution near the main port for street food, with no tables, serving boiled octopus and a variety of freshly fried fish and Ligurian fritters.
Zimino [$15-$25] – A super cheap and authentic lunch spot in the city center where you eat simple, traditional Genoese foods on plastic plates at common tables, known for their ravioli.
Il Genovese [$25-$40] – Located near the covered market, this no-frills place is a go-to for proper Genoese pesto and other local specialities; the owner is known as the ‘pesto king’.
Cantine di Colombo [$20-$35] – A hidden gem tucked away in a small square, offering simple but delicious local food, often stumbled upon by tourists but frequented by locals.
Mercato Orientale [$15-$35] – While a market, its central food court and L’Ostaia de Zena (an elegant osteria on the first floor) offer a variety of traditional and high-quality Genoese foods, from street food to cima alla Genovese.
Le Fantasie di Giò [$10-$20] – A small bakery/focacceria near the Aquarium, famous for its thin, soft, and perfectly greasy focaccia, with a limited number of tables for a quick stop.
Focaccia e Dintorni [$10-$20] – A tiny, busy focacceria in the historical center, known for making some of the best focaccia all day long and for its other Genoese specialities like farinata and savory pies.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
Les Rouges Cucina & Cocktails: Housed within a stunning 16th-century palace in the historic center, this elegant spot offers a great selection of exclusive cocktails in an atmosphere of faded grandeur.
Rebus Cocktail Bar: Found in the heart of Genoa’s historic center, this bar is known for its inventive cocktail artistry and delightful small plates, offering a new flavor adventure with every visit.
Cantine Matteotti: Located in the historic center, this refined wine and cocktail bar strikes a perfect balance between sophistication and relaxation, with a marble bar and plush velvet stools.
Cubilla American Bar: Situated in the eastern Nervi district, this is likely the longest-running cocktail bar in the entire Liguria region, offering an extensive drink list with almost a hundred choices, organized by starting spirit.
GloGlo Bistrot: Tucked away in the historic Vico Lavagna area (near Piazza Lavagna), this hidden gem has a beautifully renovated interior and is highly recommended for its aperitivo, which comes with generous and delicious platters of snacks.
Mua: For a super modern, contemporary cocktail bar experience, head to this sleek spot located just a few blocks from the central Piazza Ferrari.
Ostaia Cicala: A hidden gem in the narrow alleys of the historic center, this authentic and cheap spot makes exceptional cocktails and is popular with a younger crowd.
The Honey Bar: Located in the historic center, this cozy bar offers a unique experience with its signature honey-infused cocktails.
Estoril Club: With a prime location on the Ligurian beach along the Corso Italia promenade, this club is also an ideal spot for enjoying aperitifs and a wide selection of cocktails with stunning sea views.
Banano Tsunami: Located in the modern Porto Antico (Old Port) area, this establishment is a restaurant and bar with a fantastic waterfront location, perfect for sipping cocktails with breathtaking views.
La Goletta Seaside pub: Situated in the enchanting Porto Antico (Old Port) area within the Magazzini del Cotone, this spot overlooks the harbor and is great for aperitifs and cocktails with a view of the lighthouse.
Cezanne: Although known as a historic disco, this venue near the Fiera di Genoa is a bar as well, catering to a more mature crowd and offering a place for pre-club cocktails.
Gradisca Café: Found in the buzzing Piazza delle Erbe, this bar serves quality cocktails and is a popular meeting point in the evening, known for signature and classic drinks featuring infusions and tea.
Luccoli Bistrot: Located in the historic center, this spot is an atmospheric bar and bistro that serves aperitifs and cocktails in a cozy setting.
Taverna Zaccaria (“Zacca”): A very famous spot in the Molo district of the historic center, it’s loved by locals for great cocktails and beers, perfect for an aperitif.
La Goccia Chupiteria: Located within the narrow alleys of Genoa’s historic center, this bar is the place for those looking for a night of fun with an arguably “longest shot list in the history of shot lists.”
Britannia Pub: A British-styled pub in the city center with a cozy interior and dark wood, it boasts an excellent selection of beer but also serves mixed drinks.
Bar degli Asinelli: A simple, old-fashioned wine bar in the old city center where locals go for an aperitivo of Corochinato, Genoa’s historical aromatized wine.
Biggie: Located in the central Piazza delle Erbe, this is a popular bar that contributes to the square’s vibrant, lively atmosphere in the evenings.
Caffè degli Specchi: Found in the historic center, this bar offers a historic setting for enjoying drinks, known for its warm feeling and proximity to local life.
Exultate: A popular venue in the charming Piazza Lavagna area, known for its quieter, more adult-oriented nightlife scene.
N°10: Another well-frequented spot in Piazza Lavagna, adding to the sophisticated atmosphere of the area.
Il Cavaturaccioli: Experience the vibrant cocktail culture of Genoa at this bar in the historic center, known for its creativity and local flavor in its drinks.
Panino Marino: Located in Porto Antico right in front of the Aquarium, this modern and elegant bar is an excellent choice for a fish-focused aperitif with a drink.
La Terrazza (Bogliasco): A bit outside the city center, in the Bogliasco area, this bar has a beautiful terrace overlooking the sea, an ideal romantic spot for a cocktail.
Mako Discotheque: Situated on the seaside Corso Italia promenade to the east of the city center, this three-in-one venue includes an elegant cocktail bar, a restaurant, and a popular nightclub, often playing easy house, R&B, and revival music.
Banano Tsunami: A restaurant in the Porto Antico (Old Port) area that transforms into a lively nightclub during nice weather, featuring DJ sets and popular for its location right on the water.
Estoril Club: Located along the beautiful Corso Italia seaside promenade, this club is open year-round and features various music genres, including commercial, house, and Latin, as well as live concerts.
Casa Mia Club: This two-level underground disco is centrally located near San Vincenzo/Via XII Ottobre, featuring diverse music nights like reggaeton on Wednesdays and house/electronic on weekends.
SYS Discoteca: A summer nightclub situated directly on the sand on the Lungomare Lombardo, part of the Corso Italia area, offering DJ sets and a fantastic beach party atmosphere.
Cezanne: A historic disco near the Fiera di Genoa, catering to a more mature audience (over 25) with music ranging from 80s hits to Latin beats.
Mantra Club: A go-to spot for electronic music lovers, often hosting events by local music crews.
Bonfim: Located in the picturesque Nervi district, outside the main center, this small nightclub directly overlooks the sea and plays deep house, electronic, and new age music.
Lousiana Jazz Club: An iconic jazz club open since 1964 in the historic center’s Via di San Sebastiano, offering live jazz gigs and jam sessions, popular with an adult clientele.
Count Basie Jazz Club: Located in a former 15th-century convent in the Prè district, this ARCI venue hosts nights dedicated to jazz and blues music with live performances.