CASTELLI ROMANI & ALBAN HILLS
This serene collection of hill towns, known as the Castelli Romani, is perched atop the volcanic Alban Hills just southeast of Rome. It is the cherished escape of Romans seeking cool air, fine food, and scenic beauty.
The region is famous for its namesake Castelli Romani wine and ancient volcanic lakes. It offers a perfect blend of rich history, from Roman ruins to Papal retreats, and vibrant local life.
Most Popular Attractions
Towns & Historic Centers:
Castel Gandolfo: Most famous of the hill towns, perched above the lake, and home to the Papal Palace.
Frascati: The largest and most well-known town, famed for its wine, aristocratic villas, and lively central piazzas.
Ariccia: Known for its monumental Bernini-designed viaduct and traditional “fraschette” (rustic taverns) serving porchetta.
Nemi: A picturesque village overlooking its namesake lake, famous for its cultivation of tiny, sweet wild strawberries (fragoline).
Albano Laziale: Historically significant, it contains extensive Roman ruins and a beautiful Baroque cathedral.
Genzano di Roma: Famous for its annual Infiorata flower festival, where streets are covered in beautiful floral art mosaics.
Marino: The closest town to Rome and known for its Grape Festival (Sagra dell’Uva), where wine once flowed from the fountain.
Grottaferrata: Home to the impressive Abbazia Greca di San Nilo, a fortified Byzantine-Greek abbey.
Rocca di Papa: A panoramic town built on the slopes of Monte Cavo, offering spectacular views of the region.
Lanuvio: Known for its well-preserved medieval center, including a 14th-century fortress and ancient walls.
Velletri: One of the southernmost Castelli towns, with a rich history and notable for its wine and olive oil production.
Palaces, Villas & Architecture:
Palazzo Apostolico (Papal Palace), Castel Gandolfo: The traditional summer residence of the Popes, now a museum open to the public.
Giardini di Villa Barberini, Castel Gandolfo: The immaculately manicured Papal gardens, offering stunning views and the ruins of Emperor Domitian’s ancient villa.
Villa Aldobrandini, Frascati: A magnificent 16th-century aristocratic villa with spectacular water features and gardens (Teatro delle Acque).
Palazzo Chigi, Ariccia: A superb example of Baroque architecture designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, complete with a museum and park.
Nature & Outdoors:
Lago Albano (Lake Albano): A large volcanic crater lake popular for swimming, kayaking, and hiking along its scenic perimeter trails.
Lago di Nemi (Lake Nemi): The smaller, more tranquil volcanic lake, often called the “Mirror of Diana.”
Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani (Regional Park): The protected area covering the Alban Hills, ideal for hiking and exploring the diverse flora and fauna.
Monte Cavo: A prominent peak offering one of the most panoramic views of the entire region, stretching to Rome and the sea.
Archaeological & Ancient Sites:
Antica Città di Tusculum: Extensive ruins of an ancient Roman city near Frascati, including an amphitheater and Roman streets.
Cisternone, Albano Laziale: A vast, intact underground Roman cistern built by Emperor Septimius Severus, still in use today.
Museo delle Navi Romane, Nemi: A museum originally built to house two massive Roman ceremonial ships salvaged from Lake Nemi.
Mithraeum of Marino: One of the most important and well-preserved examples of a Mithraic temple in Italy, with vibrant frescoes.
Activities & Experiences
Go on a Wine Tasting Tour in Frascati: Visit one of the historic cellars (cantine) for a tour and tasting of the famous Frascati Superiore D.O.C.G. wine, a dry white loved by Romans since ancient times.
Hike up Monte Cavo: Trek to the summit of the highest peak in the Alban Hills (950m) for spectacular, panoramic views that stretch all the way to Rome, the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the Abruzzo mountains.
Take a Boat Ride on Lake Albano (Lago di Castel Gandolfo): Rent a kayak, paddleboat, or take a short cruise on the volcanic lake next to Castel Gandolfo, enjoying a cool escape from the summer heat.
Explore the Papal Palace of Castel Gandolfo: Tour the Apostolic Palace and its beautiful Barberini Gardens, which served as the Pope’s summer residence for centuries, now open to the public as a museum.
Visit the Nemi Strawberry Festival (Sagra delle Fragole): If visiting in early June, immerse yourself in the charming town of Nemi’s festival dedicated to its famous, small, and intensely sweet wild strawberries.
Discover the Antiquarium of Tusculum: Wander through the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Tusculum, a major political and cultural center, and explore its well-preserved Roman theater.
Walk the Historic Centers of Ariccia and Albano Laziale: Stroll across the monumental Ponte di Ariccia viaduct, and then explore Albano Laziale’s underground Roman cisterns and amphitheater ruins.
Enjoy a “Fraschetta” Dinner: Have a traditional meal in an informal, rustic restaurant (fraschetta) in Ariccia, famous for its Porchetta di Ariccia I.G.P. (a savory, slow-roasted pork delicacy).
Attend a Cooking Class: Learn to make classic Roman-influenced dishes like Cacio e Pepe or Saltimbocca using fresh, local ingredients from the hills.
Cycle the Via Appia Antica: Rent a bike and ride the ancient Roman road that starts near Rome and runs into the Alban Hills, passing by historic tombs and impressive Roman aqueducts.
Explore the Underground Galleries of Grottaferrata: Visit the famous Abbey of San Nilo and then descend into the network of ancient caves and tunnels that crisscross beneath the town.
Local Tips & Transport
Car is King: While some towns like Frascati and Albano Laziale are reachable by train from Rome, a rental car is highly recommended to fully explore the region. It allows you to easily hop between the various hill towns, access hiking trails, and visit the smaller lakes like Nemi.
Train from Rome: The FL4 commuter train line connects Rome’s Termini station to several Castelli Romani towns, including Frascati, Albano Laziale, and Velletri. This is the most efficient way to get from the city to the hills for a day trip. Be sure to check which branch of the line you need, as it splits to serve different towns.
Buses: The COTRAL bus network is extensive and connects many of the smaller villages not served by the train. The main hub is at the Anagnina metro station (Line A) in Rome, and buses also travel between the towns. Buying tickets beforehand at a Tabacchi (tobacconist) is generally required.
Walking in the Towns: Once you arrive in any of the Castelli, the historic centers are almost always best explored on foot. Be prepared for hills, as the towns are built into the volcanic slopes.
The Fraschetta Experience: Eating at a fraschetta is a must. These are historically simple inns where locals would bring their own food and buy the wine. Today, they are informal restaurants, particularly famous in Ariccia, that focus on local delicacies like Porchetta (savory roasted pork) and simple, rustic dishes.
The Pope’s Shadow: The presence of the Papal Palace in Castel Gandolfo means this town has a more formal atmosphere than others. During the summer, it’s a popular spot for Roman day-trippers seeking relief from the city heat. The lakeshore area is great for a picnic.
Dining Times & Heat: Like in the rest of Italy, lunch is typically served from 1:00 PM to 3:00 PM, and dinner is late, usually starting around 8:00 PM or 8:30 PM. The higher altitude means the area is typically cooler than Rome, making it a great escape in the hot summer months.
Focus on Local Flavors: Every town has its specialty:
Ariccia: Porchetta (roasted pork).
Nemi: Fragoline di Bosco (wild strawberries).
Frascati/Marino: White Wine (Frascati D.O.C.G.).
Castel Gandolfo: Peach-based pastries and seafood (due to the lake).
Hidden Gems:
Lake Nemi and the Roman Ships Museum: The smallest of the two lakes, Nemi has a mystical atmosphere. The museum houses relics from Emperor Caligula’s giant ceremonial barges, which were sunk and later recovered from the lake.
Genzano’s Infiorata: If you visit in June, don’t miss this famous annual event where artists cover a massive street in the town with stunning, intricate carpets made entirely of flower petals.
Grottaferrata’s Abbazia di San Nilo: This is a beautiful Byzantine-style abbey that still practices the Italo-Byzantine Rite, making it a unique and historically significant religious site in central Italy.
The Laghi (Lakes) Trail: A scenic hiking path encircles the rim of the ancient volcanic crater, connecting the towns and providing spectacular views down onto the two lakes, Albano and Nemi.
Top Restaurants
Fraschetta Osteria Dar Vignarolo [$20-$35] – A brilliant, no-frills fraschetta in Ariccia, popular with locals, featuring trestle tables beneath the viaduct and serving platters of local antipasti, porchetta, pasta, and hearty meat dishes.
Fraschetta Antico Grottino [$15-$25] – Located in the main piazza of Ariccia, this spot offers a full menu but is also known for its excellent porchetta sandwiches, to eat in or take away, offering great quality for the price.
Taverna dello Spuntino [$35-$55] – An authentic, traditional and well-regarded restaurant in Grottaferrata, known for its rustic atmosphere, excellent homemade pasta dishes, and welcoming service (Michelin Selected).
Cacciani [$40-$70] – A historic institution in Frascati, run by the same family since 1922, famous for its homemade porchetta tuscolana, classic Lazio cuisine, and beautiful panoramic terrace (Michelin Selected).
Cantina Colonna [$25-$45] – A welcoming, intimate osteria in the heart of Marino, an ideal spot for enjoying well-cooked traditional food paired with fabulous local wines.
Da zi treno [$25-$40] – A highly-rated traditional spot in Genzano di Roma, offering classic Italian and Roman cuisine with generous portions.
Osteria La Vecchia Cantina [$30-$50] – Located in Genzano di Roma, this charming restaurant is built in an old cellar and serves delicious grilled meats and traditional pasta dishes in a rustic atmosphere.
Al Cantuccio [$20-$35] – A charming restaurant in Marino with a courtyard garden, featuring home-made pastas like pappardelle with wild boar ragù and vegetarian delights.
Da Rugantino [$20-$35] – Located in Ariccia, a favorite for informal family gatherings, known for homemade gnocchi, excellent primi (first courses), and abundant portions.
Ristorante La Fiocina [$35-$55] – Situated on the shores of Lake Nemi, offering lake views and good traditional dishes with both fish and meat options.
Osteria il Tinello [$25-$45] – A well-rated, traditional osteria in Ariccia popular with friends, known for its authentic Roman cuisine.
La Locanda Sapori di famiglia [$30-$50] – A traditional Roman trattoria in Ariccia offering classic flavors and a feeling of home-cooked meals.
Osteria Da Checco [$25-$45] – A Roman trattoria in Ariccia, a local favorite, especially for outdoor dining.
Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli [$50-$80] – In business since 1882 in Castel Gandolfo, this restaurant boasts a superb location overlooking the lake and offers classic cuisine with meat and fish dishes (Michelin Selected).
Trattoria dei Cacciatori [$25-$40] – Known for its delicious pasta dishes like piccantine funghi porcini e salsiccia (spicy pasta with porcini mushrooms and sausage).
Sintesi [$50-$80] – A modern, minimalist, and highly-regarded restaurant in Ariccia, offering a refined, contemporary cuisine that goes beyond strict territorial rules with a focus on seasonal, high-quality ingredients (Michelin Star).
DLR DopoLavoroRicreativo [$35-$60] – Located in Frascati, this restaurant offers a wine selection focused on natural wines and a food proposal featuring local products and contemporary ideas.
ConTatto Ristorante [$35-$60] – A modern eatery in Frascati offering cuisine from Lazio with a focus on quality ingredients and a good wine list (Michelin Selected).
Primo [$35-$60] – An enoteca and restaurant in Frascati with a changing selection of over 170 labels and a unique menu that includes the “beef tuna” and other creative twists on classics.
Vista Wine bar [$35-$55] – Located in Castel Gandolfo, offering contemporary Italian cuisine and an excellent view, perfect for a refined dining experience.
La Galleria di Sopra [$35-$55] – Situated in Albano Laziale, this restaurant stands out for the originality of its dishes, offering a broader cuisine than its geographical borders suggest while using local products.
Al Casaletto [$35-$60] – An enchanting restaurant near Marino with whimsical décor and an outside garden, using only genuine, seasonal ingredients to create imaginative, creative dishes.
Antonello Colonna Resort & Spa [$100-$180] – Although located in Labico, slightly outside the immediate Castelli Romani area, it represents the region’s top-tier dining, led by a renowned chef focusing on Italian contemporary cuisine (Michelin Star).
Ristorante Al Focolare [$50-$90] – A highly-rated restaurant in Ariccia, offering a more refined take on Roman cuisine, perfect for a special occasion.
Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli [$50-$80] – While traditional, its history, superb location, and multiple wine lists elevate the experience to fine dining for the area. (See Traditional & Local Favorites for description).
L’Eden dei Castelli Romani [$40-$70] – Located in Ariccia, a restaurant noted for its seafood and romantic atmosphere.
Mercato di Frascati [$15-$30] – Not a single restaurant, but the local market in Frascati and other towns offer stalls and shops for casual local food like porchetta, cheese, and wine, perfect for a casual food stroll.
La Botte di Ferro [$40-$70] – Located in Grottaferrata, this spot offers a modern, refined location with impeccable service, focusing on beautifully presented fish and sushi dishes with an excellent wine list.
Mangiafuoco [$30-$50] – Located in Grottaferrata, this restaurant is known for its excellent grilled meats and appetizers, with pleasant outside seating during the summer.
Ristorante La Scogliera [$30-$50] – A highly-rated spot in Castel Gandolfo known for its great views and traditional Italian cuisine, with a strong focus on quality.
Agriturismo I Casali della Parata [$25-$45] – Located in Velletri, offering a countryside lunch experience with fresh pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and vineyard views.
Fortini Lab Café [$20-$35] – A cute café, bar, bakery, pastry shop, and restaurant in Grottaferrata, tastefully decorated, serving quality food and drink, ideal for a more modern, casual experience.
Da Charlie Pizzeria [$15-$30] – Serving delicious Neapolitan-style pizzas in a cozy and warm atmosphere in Grottaferrata.
Norcineria Indiati [$15-$30] – A specialty food shop in Ariccia displaying a wide variety of typical local products, with porchetta being the main draw, perfect for a high-quality, authentic street food or takeaway lunch.
Il Torchio [$30-$50] – A popular spot in Frascati to try regional specialties like acquacotta and creative pasta dishes like gricia with figs.
Chirimoya [$25-$40] – Located in Genzano di Roma, a restaurant known for its unique take on Italian and International cuisine.
La Cueva [$25-$40] – A highly-rated Mediterranean osteria in Ariccia, offering a pleasant dining experience with local flavors.
Hotel la Culla del Lago [$45-$75] – Located in Castel Gandolfo, offering a fusion/romantic dining experience with views of the lake.
Tinello Bistrot [$25-$40] – A contemporary Italian bistrot in Castel Gandolfo with a focus on quality and tradition.
Le Fratte Ignoranti [$30-$50] – A romantic Roman restaurant in Castel Gandolfo known for its traditional cucina romana.
Baruffa Restaurant & Bistrot [$30-$50] – A steakhouse/bistrot in Castel Gandolfo focused on meat cuisine and outdoor dining.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
The View Lounge Bar (Grottaferrata): Located in Grottaferrata, this bar is known for its spectacular panoramic terraces offering a breathtaking vista over the Alban Hills and the city of Rome, making it an ideal spot for sunset aperitifs and cocktails.
Dejavu Pub (Marino): Situated near the Lake of Castel Gandolfo, this stylish pub and cocktail bar offers one of the most scenic views in the area, providing an elegant setting for aperitivo and evening drinks away from the city chaos.
Belvedere (Frascati): A historic spot right in the heart of Frascati, famous since the time of the Dolce Vita. It’s renowned for its elaborate aperitivo buffet alongside classic and contemporary cocktails and a wide selection of spritzes.
Pank Rabbit (Frascati): Found in the vibrant town center of Frascati, this is a modern spot that blends drinks, food, and live music. It boasts a curated list of creative, signature cocktails with unique flavour combinations.
Al Decanter Bistrot (Genzano di Roma): Located in Genzano di Roma, this highly-rated bistro and cocktail bar offers an intimate and refined atmosphere, focusing on quality ingredients for both its food and cocktail menu.
Vista Wine bar (Castel Gandolfo): Located near Lake Albano in Castel Gandolfo, this establishment is a delightful spot for wine lovers but also offers a selection of cocktails, all enjoyed with a beautiful view of the lake.
Humo – Brasa y Musica (Marino): Located on Via dei Laghi in Marino, this venue combines a lounge bar atmosphere with a focus on ‘Brasa’ (grilled food) and music. It’s an ideal spot for a sophisticated evening with good cocktails and a lively ambiance.
Caveau (Grottaferrata): A popular local choice in Grottaferrata that offers a diverse menu of drinks and is often cited as a reliable stop for a late-night cocktail in the area.
Donna Vittoria “Miralago” (Albano Laziale): Located in Albano Laziale with a view of the lake, this spot is perfect for enjoying a classic cocktail or aperitif while taking in the beautiful natural scenery of Lake Albano.
Crypto Pub (Genzano di Roma): A thematic bar in Genzano di Roma offering a unique medieval experience. While known for its excellent craft beer, it also provides an alternative, cozy atmosphere for a late-night drink.
La Brusca Briaca (Genzano di Roma): A cozy bar/pub in Genzano di Roma often praised for its friendly atmosphere and diverse selection of beers and casual drinks, a solid spot for a relaxed evening.
Ristopub Hippodrome (Rocca di Papa): Although categorized as a Ristopub in Rocca di Papa, it is known to serve great cocktails and has a friendly, lively atmosphere, often featuring live music.
Bar Cavour (Grottaferrata): A well-known local bar in Grottaferrata, serving as a popular meeting point in the town centre for aperitifs and casual evening drinks.
Radici Cocktails & Beer (Albano Laziale): As the name suggests, this spot in Albano Laziale focuses on a strong selection of both craft beer and expertly mixed cocktails, catering to diverse tastes in a welcoming setting.
Meraki Club (Ariccia): One of the largest nightclubs in the Lazio region, located near Ariccia. This impressive venue is known for blending art, music, and an energetic atmosphere, hosting various themed nights and events.
Factory46 Club (Ariccia): Located on Via Quarto Negroni in Ariccia, this club is a key destination for local clubbing, known for its high-energy nights and variety of music genres, particularly popular with younger crowds.
Wunder Club (Castel Gandolfo): Situated on the lakeside in Castel Gandolfo, this club/restaurant venue is a prime spot for nightlife, offering dinner and a lively club atmosphere late into the night, especially during the summer months.
I Cavalieri di Pavona (Albano Laziale/Pavona): A known nightlife spot in the Albano Laziale area, providing a venue for dancing and late-night entertainment.
Forever Club Prive (Marino): Located off the Via Nettunense in Marino, this establishment functions as a late-night venue, offering various themed party nights and a space for dancing and clubbing.
Mi Vida Club (Albano Laziale): A local dance club in Albano Laziale that offers a vibrant party scene and a spot for dancing the night away to diverse music selections.
Charlie Brown Ag10 Srls (Albano Laziale): A designated disco in Albano Laziale known for its dynamic atmosphere and as a frequent location for local parties and late-night events.
Common Ground (Albano Laziale): Known as a venue that hosts live music and DJ sets, providing a lively evening entertainment option in Albano Laziale with a strong focus on a communal vibe.
Tortuga S.r.l. (Grottaferrata/Genzano di Roma Area): Listed as a disco/nightclub in the broader area, this serves as one of the regional venues for larger dance events and club nights.
747 Disco (Grottaferrata Area): A venue near Grottaferrata specializing as a large disco and event space, suitable for hosting major parties and festive occasions.
Lo Zodiaco S.r.l. (Albano Laziale Area): Another established nightlife venue in the area of Albano Laziale, known to host late-night parties and clubbing events.