EAST LOTHIAN COAST
East Lothian is known as “Edinburgh’s Coast and Countryside,” offering over 40 miles of stunning shoreline, charming towns, and world-class golf, all within easy reach of the capital.
It is a coastal haven that blends dramatic clifftops and beautiful golden beaches with ancient castles and rich natural heritage, earning a reputation as one of the sunniest spots in Scotland.
Most Popular Attractions
Coastal Towns & Historic Harbours:
North Berwick: A vibrant seaside town with a bustling harbour, traditional shops, and great cafes.
Dunbar: A historic town famous as the birthplace of naturalist John Muir, featuring a picturesque working harbour and castle ruins.
Musselburgh: The largest town, home to Musselburgh Racecourse and Musselburgh Links, the world’s oldest golf course.
Prestonpans: Known for its industrial history and the historic Battle of Prestonpans, with a focus on local heritage.
Cockenzie & Port Seton: Coastal villages with a strong fishing heritage and scenic waterfront.
Gullane: A charming village famous for its links golf courses and beautiful sandy beach.
Dirleton: A picturesque village with a village green and a magnificent medieval castle.
North Berwick Harbour: The main port for boat trips to the Bass Rock, with the nearby Lobster Shack for fresh seafood.
Nature, Wildlife & Outdoors:
Scottish Seabird Centre: An award-winning visitor attraction in North Berwick with interactive live cameras on local islands like the Bass Rock.
Bass Rock: A spectacular volcanic island and one of the world’s largest colonies of Northern gannets, often called the “White Rock.”
North Berwick Law: A distinctive conical volcanic hill offering panoramic views of the Firth of Forth and surrounding countryside.
John Muir Way: A long-distance scenic trail, with a significant section running along the East Lothian coastline.
John Muir’s Birthplace (Dunbar): A museum dedicated to the famous Scottish-American naturalist and conservationist.
Yellowcraig Beach: A stunning sandy beach backed by dunes, offering views out to Fidra Island (reputedly the inspiration for Treasure Island).
Seacliff Beach: A secluded beach featuring a tiny, privately-owned harbour carved out of the rock and views of Tantallon Castle.
John Muir Country Park: A vast area around Dunbar and Belhaven Bay with diverse habitats and walking trails.
Belhaven Bay & Bridge to Nowhere: A beautiful stretch of beach and dunes, known for the picturesque bridge across the River Tyne estuary that is often surrounded by water at high tide.
Castles & Historic Sites:
Tantallon Castle: A dramatic, formidable 14th-century cliff-top fortress and one of Scotland’s last great medieval castles.
Dirleton Castle: A majestic medieval fortress with beautiful gardens, set around a large green.
Preston Mill & Phantassie Doocot: One of the most photographed buildings in Scotland, an architectural oddity with a distinctive Dutch-style kiln.
National Museum of Flight (East Fortune): Housed on a former RAF airfield, displaying an impressive collection of aircraft, including a Concorde.
Prestongrange Museum: A former industrial site with a rich history of coal mining and pottery production, now an open-air museum.
Hailes Castle: A beautifully situated ruined riverside castle on the River Tyne.
Glenkinchie Distillery: Located inland, offering tours and tastings of the “Edinburgh Malt” whisky.
The DunBear (Dunbar): A striking five-metre-high steel sculpture of a brown bear, a tribute to John Muir.
Activities & Experiences
Go Wildlife Spotting at the Scottish Seabird Centre: Visit the North Berwick centre and use the live interactive cameras to zoom in on puffins, gannets, and other marine life on nearby islands like Bass Rock and the Isle of May. Consider taking a wildlife boat trip from the centre.
Explore Historic Castles: Wander through the formidable ruins of Tantallon Castle, a dramatic coastal fortress, and the medieval Dirleton Castle & Gardens, known for its charming gardens and impressive architecture.
Climb North Berwick Law: Hike up this distinctive conical hill (a volcanic plug) for panoramic views across the Firth of Forth, the coastline, and the Lammermuir Hills. Look for the replica whale jawbones at the summit.
Walk the John Muir Way: Follow a section of this national trail, which passes through John Muir’s birthplace in Dunbar and offers stunning clifftop and coastal scenery.
Learn to Surf or Paddleboard: Head to beaches like Belhaven Bay near Dunbar, where surf schools offer lessons for all levels, or rent a paddleboard to explore the calmer waters.
Take a Whisky Tour and Tasting: Visit Glenkinchie Distillery (the “Lowland Home of Johnnie Walker”) near Tranent for an immersive tour and a guided tasting of their single malt Scotch whisky.
Discover the Birthplace of the Saltire: Visit the Flag Heritage Centre in Athelstaneford, where local legend claims the Scottish national flag, the Saltire, originated from a battle in 832 AD.
Play a Round of Golf: East Lothian is known as “Scotland’s Golf Coast,” with over 20 courses, including world-famous links courses. Book a tee time at a championship course or a welcoming local club.
Visit the National Museum of Flight: Explore a world-class collection of aircraft and learn about aviation history at this museum housed at a former wartime airfield in East Fortune.
Walk or Ride the 1722 Waggonway: Explore the route of Scotland’s oldest railway at the 1722 Waggonway Heritage Centre near Cockenzie, featuring a museum with local artefacts.
Go Horse Riding on the Beach: Enjoy a memorable hack along the sandy shore, such as at Seacliff Beach, with stables in the area offering various coastal and countryside treks.
Local Tips & Transport
Train is Excellent: The main towns and villages, including Musselburgh, North Berwick, Dunbar, and Longniddry, are served by a reliable train line running directly to and from Edinburgh Waverley. This is often the quickest and most scenic way to travel between the coast and the capital.
Bus Network is Comprehensive: East Coast Buses (a subsidiary of Lothian Buses) operates an extensive network of regular services connecting all the major coastal towns and villages to each other and to Edinburgh. Express services (marked with ‘X’) are available for a faster journey to Edinburgh.
Young Persons Travel: Scotland offers free bus travel to all residents under the age of 22 with a valid Young Scot or National Entitlement Card, which is an excellent option for younger travellers.
Car is Handy for Deeper Exploration: While public transport connects the main points, a car offers the most flexibility for exploring the smaller villages, secluded beaches (like Tyninghame or Seacliff), and inland attractions such as the Lammermuir Hills. Parking is generally easier than in Edinburgh, but check for coastal town restrictions during peak summer.
Embrace the “Dreich”: Scottish weather is famously changeable. Be prepared for all four seasons in one day, even in summer. Layered clothing and a waterproof jacket are essential, regardless of the forecast. “Dreich” is a Scots word for weather that is dull, overcast, drizzly, and generally miserable—but the East Lothian coast is also noted for being one of the sunniest regions in Scotland!
Golf Culture: East Lothian lives and breathes golf. While playing is great, even non-golfers can appreciate the iconic links courses and the history of the game in towns like Gullane.
The Sea is Cold: While watersports are popular, remember that the North Sea remains very cold, even in summer. Wetsuits are highly recommended or essential for anything more than a quick paddle.
John Muir’s Legacy: East Lothian is the birthplace of John Muir (1838-1914), the renowned naturalist, author, and early advocate for U.S. national parks. His childhood home in Dunbar is now a museum, and his influence is visible throughout the area, including the John Muir Country Park and the John Muir Way.
Local Food & Drink: Don’t miss the chance to try fresh local seafood, particularly in the harbour towns of North Berwick and Dunbar. For a true taste of the region, try local ales from Belhaven Brewery (Scotland’s oldest working brewery) in Dunbar.
Hidden Gems:
- Preston Mill & Phantassie Doocot: A picturesque, quirky, Dutch-style watermill in East Linton and a classic East Lothian photo opportunity.
- Seacliff Beach: A stunning, often quieter beach with a tiny, privately-owned harbour carved out of rock and an incredible view of Tantallon Castle.
- Drift Coffee & Kitchen: Located in a converted container perched on a clifftop near North Berwick, this café offers fantastic local food and some of the best views of Bass Rock.
- John Gray Centre: Located in Haddington, this combines a museum, library, and archive, making it an excellent stop for diving deeper into the history of the entire region.
Top Restaurants
The Old Clubhouse [$20–$35] – A popular, traditional pub in Gullane, known for its friendly atmosphere and serving hearty, classic pub food, including a good Sunday roast.
The Golf Inn [$20–$35] – Located in Gullane, this traditional inn and restaurant offers classic Scottish dishes and a welcoming, cozy atmosphere, popular with both golfers and locals.
The Crown and Kitchen [$20–$35] – A lovely country inn and gastropub in East Linton, serving traditional pub dishes with a focus on local and seasonal produce.
The Herringbone [$20–$40] – A stylish bar and restaurant with a focus on seasonal Scottish produce and a relaxing atmosphere in North Berwick.
The Ship Inn [$20–$40] – A classic, award-winning seaside pub in North Berwick, famous for its traditional food, real ales, and views over the harbour.
The Rocketeer Restaurant [$25–$45] – Located on the harbour in North Berwick, this restaurant offers local seafood and traditional fare with stunning views, often seen as the sit-down version of the popular ‘Lobster Shack.’
The Waterside Bistro [$25–$40] – A rustic-chic bistro in Haddington by the River Tyne, offering a mix of Scottish classics and eclectic dishes using fresh local ingredients.
The Creel [$25–$45] – A long-standing favourite in Dunbar, focusing on simple, excellent seafood and traditional Scottish cooking.
Dukes of West Barns [$15–$30] – Located just outside Dunbar, this coastal cafe and art gallery is popular for its high-quality, ‘destination’ Scottish breakfasts and lunches.
The Mercat Bar & Restaurant [$20–$35] – A popular and modern pub/restaurant in Musselburgh offering a good range of traditional Scottish and international dishes.
The Nether Abbey Hotel Restaurant [$25–$45] – Located in North Berwick, this hotel restaurant offers a menu of traditional British and Scottish dishes using quality local ingredients.
The Linton Hotel [$20–$35] – A traditional hotel and restaurant in East Linton, providing classic pub food and a welcoming spot next to the River Tyne.
Duck’s Inn [$30–$50] – Housed in a historic 1638 building in Aberlady, this venue serves hearty, satisfying dishes with a distinct Scottish influence and holds AA rosettes for culinary excellence.
The Watchman [$20–$35] – A welcoming pub in Gullane that prides itself on serving Scottish dishes and pub classics using ingredients local to Scotland.
Longniddry Inn [$20–$35] – A popular, locally favoured inn in Longniddry known for its good quality, traditional food and comfortable setting.
The Haddington Restaurant [$25–$40] – Offers traditional dining in Haddington, often with a focus on classic Scottish cooking in a pleasant, welcoming setting.
The Bonnie Badger [$40–$70] – A critically acclaimed modern Scottish restaurant in Gullane, part of the Kitchin Group, with a philosophy of ‘From Nature to Plate’ using the freshest seasonal, local produce.
Osteria [$35–$60] – A highly-rated, family-run Italian bistro in North Berwick, known for elevating Italian cuisine with fresh, local Scottish fish and seafood, offering refined cooking.
East Coast [$30–$50] – Located in Musselburgh, this multi-award-winning restaurant is celebrated for its excellent, fresh Scottish seafood and fish, sourcing ingredients daily.
Drift [$25–$45] – An incredibly unique, cliff-top café near North Berwick, known for accessible fine dining and seasonal dishes, with stunning panoramic views of the coast.
The Lawn at Marine North Berwick [$45–$75] – An elegant restaurant in the Marine Hotel offering an all-day menu that celebrates rich British and Scottish produce in a refined atmosphere with coastal views.
Chez Roux [$50–$80] – Located within the five-star Greywalls Hotel in Gullane, this fine dining restaurant serves exquisite French cuisine made with the finest Scottish ingredients.
The Main Course Restaurant [$30–$50] – A refined dining experience in Gullane, blending the flavours of Italy with rich, locally sourced ingredients.
The Old Smiddy [$25–$45] – A charming, well-regarded restaurant in the village of Whitecraig, known for using seasonal ingredients in its creative menu.
La Potinière [$50–$80] – An exquisite and long-standing restaurant in Gullane, offering a set gourmet menu that changes daily, focused on the finest Scottish produce with French-inspired techniques (reservations essential).
The Seafood Restaurant at The Old Club House [$30–$50] – A separate seafood dining area in Gullane that focuses on the best of Scottish catches with a contemporary twist.
The Puffin Bistro & Wine Bar [$25–$45] – A popular bistro in North Berwick, known for its contemporary menu and excellent wine list, offering a modern dining experience.
No. 12 Hotel and Restaurant [$35–$55] – Located in North Berwick, this modern restaurant focuses on high-quality, seasonal dishes with inventive presentation.
Salt Horse [$30–$50] – A restaurant in North Berwick that focuses on modern European cuisine with an emphasis on local sourcing.
Sanctuary [$30–$50] – A modern eatery in North Berwick with a creative menu that often features international influences alongside Scottish staples.
The Bistro at Macdonald Marine Hotel & Spa [$40–$65] – Located in North Berwick, this hotel bistro offers a refined menu with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients in a scenic setting.
Gusto [$35–$55] – A modern Italian restaurant in North Berwick, offering a sophisticated take on classic dishes with local produce.
La Potinière [$50–$80] – A Michelin-recognized gem in Gullane, offering a very intimate, high-quality, fixed-price menu experience with a focus on seasonal Scottish produce.
The Bonnie Badger’s Stables Dining Room [$40–$70] – Offers an à la carte experience with a high-end feel, focusing on fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced Scottish ingredients from the Kitchin Group’s philosophy.
Chez Roux [$50–$80] – A fine-dining establishment in the Greywalls Hotel, Gullane, providing an elegant experience with classic French cuisine using the best Scottish ingredients.
The Lawn at Marine North Berwick [$45–$75] – While also modern, the quality, service, and price point place this firmly in the high-end category for its British and Scottish cuisine.
Osteria [$35–$60] – Known for repeatedly winning the ‘Best Restaurant’ at the Scottish Italian Awards, offering an excellent, highly-refined Italian fine-dining experience at a surprisingly reasonable price.
The Lobster Shack [$25–$45] – A highly popular food shack right on the harbour in North Berwick, famous for its fresh lobster, crab, and other seafood, offering a truly unique, casual coastal experience.
Gurkha Bar & Restaurant [$20–$35] – Located in Musselburgh, this is a popular spot for authentic Nepalese cuisine, offering an excellent alternative to Scottish fare with a wide-ranging, flavourful menu.
Steampunk Coffee [$10–$20] – A trendy roastery and cafe in North Berwick, housed in an old warehouse, known for its excellent coffee and simple, delicious light meals and snacks.
Cucina Amore [$25–$40] – A modern, family-run Italian eatery in North Berwick, popular for its freshly made classics like pasta and pizza.
Bostock Bakery [$10–$20] – A highly-regarded bakery in East Linton, famous for its artisanal sourdough bread, pastries, and exceptional savoury items—perfect for a high-quality lunch or takeaway.
Alandas Gelato [$5–$15] – A famous gelato shop in North Berwick that uses locally sourced milk and cream to create a huge array of delicious, handcrafted ice cream flavours.
The Buttercup Cafe [$15–$25] – A very popular cafe in North Berwick, known for its friendly service and great homemade soups, sandwiches, and cakes.
Coast to Coast Wine Co. [$15–$30] – Located in Dunbar, this spot offers a unique experience, pairing high-quality wines with local cheeses and charcuterie.
Crolla’s Italian Kitchen [$20–$35] – A popular, family-run Italian restaurant in Musselburgh, offering classic, comforting Italian dishes.
North Berwick Fry [$15–$25] – A classic, highly-rated fish and chip shop in North Berwick, perfect for a traditional seaside takeaway meal.
The Coastal Bakery [$10–$20] – A bakery and café in a smaller coastal town like Cockenzie or Port Seton, known for fresh bakes and light lunches, catering mainly to locals.
The Crown Hotel [$20–$35] – A classic hotel pub in a town like Haddington or Dunbar, often serving good value pub meals and attracting a strong local crowd.
Top Cocktail Bars and Clubs
The Broc Bar (at The Bonnie Badger): Located in the heart of the enchanting coastal village of Gullane, this warm and welcoming bar offers a selection of carefully curated cocktails, premium spirits, and local craft beers in a stylish setting within a modern Scottish restaurant.
The Crown & Kitchen Bar: Situated in the historic burgh of East Linton, this popular gastropub offers a great drinks menu, including cocktails, alongside a wide selection of Scottish gins and single malt whiskies, often enjoyed by the open fireplace.
Seaglass Bar & Restaurant: This family-run venue on the coast, easily accessible in the East Lothian area, features a comprehensive drinks list, including a fantastic cocktail menu, alongside a modern take on pub classics.
The Law: A newly renovated pub in North Berwick’s High Street, this spot replaces a former hotel and is known to feature modern pub offerings, including a drinks menu with cocktails, attracting a lively crowd.
The Victoria Inn: Occupying a prominent position in the town center of Haddington, this is a traditional pub setting that offers a good range of drinks, including cocktails, popular with locals for a relaxing evening.
The Victoria Bar, North Berwick: A popular and traditional pub on North Berwick’s main street, offering a cozy atmosphere and a good range of spirits and mixed drinks for a classic pub evening out.
The Volunteer Arms: Quietly overlooking the harbour in the seaside town of Dunbar, this pub is an excellent spot for enjoying a drink with a view, providing a selection of beers, spirits, and simple mixed cocktails.
The Rocks: Located near the beach in the lovely town of Dunbar, this establishment serves as a hotel, restaurant, and bar, offering a place to relax with a drink after a day of coastal exploration.
The North Berwick Golf Club Bar: While primarily for golfers, the clubhouse bar in North Berwick often offers a well-stocked bar with options for simple cocktails and mixed drinks, set against the backdrop of world-class links.
The Waterside Bistro: Overlooking the harbour in Haddington, this bistro and bar provides a refined setting for enjoying drinks, including standard cocktails, often with a focus on fresh, local ingredients in its menu.
The Old Clubhouse: Found near the golf course in Gullane, this well-regarded bar and restaurant is a popular community hub where you can find a selection of gins, whiskies, and basic cocktails.
The Dolphin Inn: A traditional, friendly pub in Musselburgh, close to the coast, offering a local atmosphere and a full bar selection, suitable for a casual cocktail or pint.
The Granary: A cozy and well-regarded pub located in the town of Tranent, known for its selection of drinks and local community feel.
The Ship Inn: A historic, nautical-themed pub situated right on the harbour in North Berwick, where patrons can enjoy a drink with a quintessential coastal view.
The Goth (The Brunton Hall Bar): Though not a dedicated cocktail bar, the bar within the Brunton Hall venue in Musselburgh can serve as a spot for pre- or post-show drinks, often including basic cocktails.
The Law Late Bar: This spot in North Berwick, known for its pub offerings, stays open later than many local establishments, offering a lively, more ‘club-like’ atmosphere, especially on weekends with music.
The Black Bull: A traditional pub in Haddington that often features live music or a DJ on weekends, making it one of the livelier, late-night options in the area.
The Tyneside Tavern: Located in Haddington, this establishment is a popular spot for locals, and its late-night license and music on weekends give it a dance-friendly atmosphere.
The Wee Hurrie: While famed for its fish and chips in North Berwick, it also has a bar area, and on certain nights, it can host live music, creating a late-evening buzz. (Note: Primarily a takeaway/restaurant, but serves a late-night social function).
The Pine Marten Bar: Located in Dunbar, this large pub and restaurant offers a relaxed and informal atmosphere but is a key evening spot in the area for a late drink with friends.
The Corner Pocket: A venue in Tranent that often caters to a younger crowd and features pool tables and late-night music, functioning as a lively alternative to a traditional pub.
The Kaim Park Hotel Bar: The bar within this hotel in Bathgate/West Lothian (often grouped for wider local nightlife) can host events and functions that extend late, providing a dance floor and late-night bar service. (Note: Located just outside the East Lothian coastal area but often listed as a local late spot).
The Clubhouse (at Musselburgh Racecourse): On race days or event nights, the venues here offer large-scale, late-licensed bar service, turning into a major social hub for dancing and late drinks.
The Royal Mackintosh Hotel Bar: Found in the seaside town of Dunbar, this hotel bar provides a comfortable space that remains open for residents and visitors to enjoy drinks into the late evening.
The Station Hotel Bar: Located near the train station in Haddington, this hotel bar often serves as a convenient and late-licensed spot for travelers and locals to gather.
The Golfers Rest: This traditional Scottish pub in the area, offering homemade pub grub, maintains a warm atmosphere that often keeps patrons enjoying spirits and beer until close, serving as a social, late-night hub.